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The diagram is in the Chassis Service Manual, figure 5-10. Yes, yours is incorrect. First, there is only one of the large wire hooks used, the one on the passenger side. The one you have on the driver's side should not be there. The forward cable with the threaded end should be routed through that slot that the driver side hook is currently attached to. Do you also have the two small wire hooks that hold the intermediate cable to the floorpan?
The Equalizer needs to be centered between the two metal bracket loops. Once cable from the front brake, then one cable between each of the two rear brakes runs "through" the equalizer - thereby equalizing the force applied to the two rear brakes.
The Equalizer needs to be centered between the two metal bracket loops. Once cable from the front brake, then one cable between each of the two rear brakes runs "through" the equalizer - thereby equalizing the force applied to the two rear brakes.
Sorry, but that is not correct. As I noted above, there should not be two metal loops, only one. The equalizer will slide until it self-centers when installed correctly. The configuration in the photo is not correct.
Sorry, but that is not correct. As I noted above, there should not be two metal loops, only one. The equalizer will slide until it self-centers when installed correctly. The configuration in the photo is not correct.
Gotcha. That makes sense. Why are there two metal loops?
from your picture it look like my cable from the brake pedal should go thru the slot where the hook is that I am not supposed to use and then to rear cable?
from your picture it look like my cable from the brake pedal should go thru the slot where the hook is that I am not supposed to use and then to rear cable?
Which is what I said in post #2.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
The forward cable with the threaded end should be routed through that slot that the driver side hook is currently attached to.
this is the way it was hooked up when I got the car, so I hooked it back up that way and I said to myself that it did not look right! thanks for info!!
Now you just need to properly tension the cable with the threaded rod. You also need a jamb nut against the current adjusting nut to lock it into place.
there is a jam nut on there already! what is the proper tension? I sure love this site!! but hate working on a car that someone else has and did not put things back the way that they are suppose to!! I took pictures of everything I took off on this car so that I could put it back the way I took it off just to find out it is still wrong! But I am getting closer to having it back together!
there is a jam nut on there already! what is the proper tension? I sure love this site!! but hate working on a car that someone else has and did not put things back the way that they are suppose to!! I took pictures of everything I took off on this car so that I could put it back the way I took it off just to find out it is still wrong! But I am getting closer to having it back together!
There are two nuts on the threaded part? Sorry but it doesn't look that way in the photo. I usually set the tension by setting the e-brake. I like 2-3 clicks at the most. The intermediate cable looks loose in the photo.
OK! great. I think that I will have to free up the cable up front first! I tried to push it down and it would not budge! should I try to lube it up or just replace it?
It looks like you have one nut in front and one nut behind the "u channel". Both nuts go behind the channel on the threaded rod. Otherwise the channel can deform and the nuts can get loose over time. Is that a carbon fiber drive shaft? What did it cost and who made it?
OK! great. I think that I will have to free up the cable up front first! I tried to push it down and it would not budge! should I try to lube it up or just replace it?
Disconnect the front cable from the rest and see if it moves by itself. If not, obviously you have to loosen or replace that one first. And as noted, both nuts go on the back end of the threaded rod. The first one tensions the cable. The second one is a jam nut that tightens against the first nut to lock it in place.
(PST) Precision Shaft Technologies, Clearwater FL 888-575-7888 I do not remember what I paid but I think it was around $500.00 thanks for the Info on the nuts!
(PST) Precision Shaft Technologies, Clearwater FL 888-575-7888 I do not remember what I paid but I think it was around $500.00 thanks for the Info on the nuts!
PST made the 4" aluminum shaft for my vista cruiser as well. Great company, very helpful advice over the phone, and they do very nice work.