1963 Full size brake rebuild kit?
1963 Full size brake rebuild kit?
Hello,
I am new to the auto restoring. And do not know brake systems very well.
I have a friend who would like to help me rebuild the brakes on my car (I am only 15, he is over 40 and loves Starfires). He looked at my systems and told me I need new EVERYTHING for the brakes. I have a rebuilt booster ready to use, and working brakes on one of my drivers. But the brakes on that car are starting to make some grinding noises so I figure they are wearing out????
What do I need to order to have a complete system?
Money is not an issue for me and I want good brakes to ensure my safety in the vehicle!
Any leads or lists of items to get would be wonderful!
Thank you
Dalton
541-678-0606
Demammothman@live.com
I am new to the auto restoring. And do not know brake systems very well.
I have a friend who would like to help me rebuild the brakes on my car (I am only 15, he is over 40 and loves Starfires). He looked at my systems and told me I need new EVERYTHING for the brakes. I have a rebuilt booster ready to use, and working brakes on one of my drivers. But the brakes on that car are starting to make some grinding noises so I figure they are wearing out????
What do I need to order to have a complete system?
Money is not an issue for me and I want good brakes to ensure my safety in the vehicle!
Any leads or lists of items to get would be wonderful!
Thank you
Dalton
541-678-0606
Demammothman@live.com
Let someone show you how to do brakes.
They are pretty much a simple system,that has only slightly changed in 100 years.
If It ain't broke...don't fix it.
I'm guessing you have drums on all 4 wheels,which really limits the braking power of a big vehicle,so don't assume they will function as good as a new car with 4 wheel disc brakes.
Assuming all your brake lines have been replaced at some time,and are in good condition,you'll basically need wheel cylinders,which actuate the hardware,new shoes,small shoe gets loaded toward front of car(leading shoe).
When fluid pushes out the cylinder,the hardware actuates the shoe,which contacts the drum lining and slows vehicle.
You can probably reuse the drums if not scored.
Usually all the springs and other hardware can be purchased in a cheap kit.
It will take a few tries getting all the springs attached to the right points,use the opposite side as a reference,but remember everything will be reversed.
Taking pictures really helps here until you remember where everything goes.
Last is drum adjustment..you want drums adjusted so the drum fits without any drag on the shoes,they stay adjusted while you drive when you back up.
If your initial adjustment is too loose you won't get good pedal action and braking.
Too tight and the shoes will drag,heat and warp the drums,and turn a nice cherry red while you drive
It will be hard to remove the drums after an incorrect tight adjustment.
A few tools will make your life easier,mityvac to bleed the lines,spring tools to stretch the springs,and speed bleeders are a smart investment.
Letting someone show the ropes will make life much easier.
In the course of a lifetime,you can save a ton of money doing basic auto maintenance...let the old timers show you a few tricks.
They are pretty much a simple system,that has only slightly changed in 100 years.
If It ain't broke...don't fix it.
I'm guessing you have drums on all 4 wheels,which really limits the braking power of a big vehicle,so don't assume they will function as good as a new car with 4 wheel disc brakes.
Assuming all your brake lines have been replaced at some time,and are in good condition,you'll basically need wheel cylinders,which actuate the hardware,new shoes,small shoe gets loaded toward front of car(leading shoe).
When fluid pushes out the cylinder,the hardware actuates the shoe,which contacts the drum lining and slows vehicle.
You can probably reuse the drums if not scored.
Usually all the springs and other hardware can be purchased in a cheap kit.
It will take a few tries getting all the springs attached to the right points,use the opposite side as a reference,but remember everything will be reversed.
Taking pictures really helps here until you remember where everything goes.
Last is drum adjustment..you want drums adjusted so the drum fits without any drag on the shoes,they stay adjusted while you drive when you back up.
If your initial adjustment is too loose you won't get good pedal action and braking.
Too tight and the shoes will drag,heat and warp the drums,and turn a nice cherry red while you drive

It will be hard to remove the drums after an incorrect tight adjustment.
A few tools will make your life easier,mityvac to bleed the lines,spring tools to stretch the springs,and speed bleeders are a smart investment.
Letting someone show the ropes will make life much easier.
In the course of a lifetime,you can save a ton of money doing basic auto maintenance...let the old timers show you a few tricks.
Last edited by Nasty455; Sep 15, 2012 at 03:00 AM.
Always a good idea - they're not hard, but watching someone else is, as they say, worth a thousand words.
Absolutely.
I agree with that, too.
If all that's wrong is a missing spring retainer, no sense changing everything.
I disagree.
A properly adjusted set of drum brakes is just as good as disks (okay, not quite as good as the disks on a modern BMW or Porsche, but just as good as the disk brakes that were originally put on these cars).
The only disadvantages are that they grab after going through a puddle, they overheat more easily on mountain downhills while towing and when racing (but if you're not towing or racing, that shouldn't be a problem), and that they require a bit more maintenance.
... Unless yours are fine
I have almost never seen drums that couldn't be reused
I just searched - I cant find any complete kits listed for your car, but you should be able to buy all of the parts individually. Probably about $10 to $15 an axle.
They really only fit one way if you're paying attention.
Spring tools will save your sanity and make an impossible job easy.
The best way to bleed brakes (aside from a fancy pressure bleeder) is the two man method, and since you've got a helper, you can skip the MityVac for now.
I'm not sure what I think about speed bleeders, as sometimes they can admit air through the threads.
This is neither a big nor an expensive job, so go take your brakes apart, get 'em set up right, and have fun!
- Eric
I agree with that, too.
If all that's wrong is a missing spring retainer, no sense changing everything.
A properly adjusted set of drum brakes is just as good as disks (okay, not quite as good as the disks on a modern BMW or Porsche, but just as good as the disk brakes that were originally put on these cars).
The only disadvantages are that they grab after going through a puddle, they overheat more easily on mountain downhills while towing and when racing (but if you're not towing or racing, that shouldn't be a problem), and that they require a bit more maintenance.
... Unless yours are fine
I have almost never seen drums that couldn't be reused
The best way to bleed brakes (aside from a fancy pressure bleeder) is the two man method, and since you've got a helper, you can skip the MityVac for now.
I'm not sure what I think about speed bleeders, as sometimes they can admit air through the threads.
This is neither a big nor an expensive job, so go take your brakes apart, get 'em set up right, and have fun!
- Eric
What do I need to order to have a complete system?
Money is not an issue for me and I want good brakes to ensure my safety in the vehicle!
Any leads or lists of items to get would be wonderful!
Thank you
Dalton
541-678-0606
Demammothman@live.com
Money is not an issue for me and I want good brakes to ensure my safety in the vehicle!
Any leads or lists of items to get would be wonderful!
Thank you
Dalton
541-678-0606
Demammothman@live.com
http://kanter.com/
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