Recommended finish for metal parts
#1
Recommended finish for metal parts
Over the course of my project I forsee needing to fab several various metal parts that will need protection from the elements and refinish existing parts. Many of the parts on the frame and suspension are not painted but seem to have some sort of bluing finish or oxide. I'm not interested in an original restoration but want to use what will give the best protection from rust. This goes for under body, engine compartment, and interior. I've heard POR-15 is good. I'm not a fan of powder coating, it chips and fades over time and still allows moisture to get under it. Any ideas for general good finishes for metal protection would be great.
#2
For weather protection you can't beat epoxy primer. If you have new metal or have old parts completely free of rust the only place epoxy will rust is where it's dinged down to the bare metal. Then the rust would be isolated to the damaged spot. Other primers will allow water and rust to spread out underneath the paint but not epoxy.
There are some quirks to working with epoxy though. There is a recoat window which means that once you prime the metal you have a certain amount of hours before topcoating. It also doesn't sand between coats like other primers very well. If leveling is wanted then topcoat with a filler primer. Then you have all the time you wish to work the finish. It's just that after the recoat window has passed the primer gets so hard paint won't bond very well so after the window has passed you scuff sand and apply another coat of epoxy primer before proceeding.
There are some quirks to working with epoxy though. There is a recoat window which means that once you prime the metal you have a certain amount of hours before topcoating. It also doesn't sand between coats like other primers very well. If leveling is wanted then topcoat with a filler primer. Then you have all the time you wish to work the finish. It's just that after the recoat window has passed the primer gets so hard paint won't bond very well so after the window has passed you scuff sand and apply another coat of epoxy primer before proceeding.
#4
Only thing I use is SPI epoxy. It sands easy and if you want to respray after seven days you scuff it with a red scothbright pad. Nothing else even comes close. I even use it for my chassis black, no other top coat product needed.
#7
Epoxy is a two part mix. ratios may differ depending on product. The paint is mixed with the activator and then sprayed on with a gun typically. I haven't seen any epoxy primer in rattle cans but I have seen clear coats that have a two part mix where the can has a divided section which is opened internally so the two parts mix then applied. Once opened and they mix it will harden at some point so its a one time use for all or little.
#8
Eastwood has an epoxy primer in a rattle can that's 2 part. Right before you use you have to push the bottom of the can to release the activator and shake the can to mix the 2 parts. It worked fine on the parts I used it on.
I've also had great results with Rustoleum.
I've also had great results with Rustoleum.
Last edited by 70cutty; June 17th, 2019 at 11:15 AM.
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