We are attempting to remove surface rust from the trunk lid of my 1967 Olds Delmont 88. So far the best process seems to be--strip, strip, wire wheel, 40 grit sand (DA), Rust-B-Gone and 40 grit again. Then it's ready for regular 80 grit and primer.

Just wanted to post this in case anyone else has a similar challenge. It's a pain but there doesn't seem to be an easier way....

Chris

 

if it's surface rust, sand it off and epoxy prime it, or etch prime and prime it. If it's deeper, media blasting would be the way to go. If you can't blast, sand it off as much as possible, apply rust converter and prime over that according to the directions on the converter.

 

Or you could use Metal Prep and go over it with Bondo's thick fiberglass resin - sand it smooth and you're done.
Find it at a Automotive paint supplier.

 

Really wouldn't recommend going over a freshly stripped metal panel with fiberglass resin. That's asking for trouble later on down the road.
Save the fiberglass for your corvette project. There are many products made to adhere to bare metal, fiberglass is not one of them.

 

Wouldn't have recommended it if wasn't proven!!
In the 80's, when they tried 'recycled metal' and the rust would appear in the middle of a panel with no damage before the paint fell off, I was managing a shop that did dealer work.
We probably did 250 cars that way, and never had a rust comeback in 3 years!

 

If its only surface rust just paint it with POR15 and then your normal thick primer and sand it and paint it as normal.

 

Try this forum. Len and others have helped me out a lot.

http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php

 

See if this helps. Reminds me of working with my dad.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkjL9...feature=relmfu

 

He did ask for opinions, and if you've done it and it worked, I can't say you're wrong for sharing. With all due respect, and I do respect your experience, just because it worked in the 80s doesn't mean it's the most efficient/effective way to do it 30 years later. Basically all of the paint technology that existed in the 80s is obsolete today. There are many ways it could be done, and many of them can be made to "work".
The fact remains that fiberglass resin has NO etching properties whatsoever and is not made to adhere to metal like a polyester, acid etch or epoxy will.
There is a great product I used years when we used to be a distributor of Clausen products. It was called All-U-Need. It's basically a sprayable polyester filler that acts as a high build primer with built in guide coat. One time we laid a penny on a panel, sprayed a couple coats over it and blocked it out smooth! I lost that bet...