LoganMiller68

Hey Guys,
I've started sanding the paint off my car and doing rust repair. This is my first time, so I'm learning as I'm going. I'm just curious, what is the best way to remove the trim, like the chrome trim and emblems? I've never removed them before so I wanna make sure I do it right.

Thanks!

rocketraider

Logan, depends on how the stuff is attached. Scripts and most diecast emblems and trim are retained with studs and Tinnerman nuts. Stainless or aluminum trim uses several different plastic or metal clips.

These attachments are often inaccessible or can only be accessed if you have small hands or a series of extensions and universal joints on your sockets.

The Fisher Body manual for your year will show how the stuff is attached, and the CSM shows the front end sheetmetal.

Keep in mind after 40+ years some of these clips are going to break. Most of the plastic clips are easily found. Spring-type clips like used on some wide stainless body mouldings can be a chore.

Restoration Specialties in Windber PA is a good source for clips and trim hardware, or you can try matching them up in the AuVeCo catalog. Sometimes a good body shop supply will have clips.

LoganMiller68

Thanks for the info. I'll look through the body manual and go from there. I guess I'll worry about replacing any clips or nuts when the time comes, since the last thing I want to do is damage any trim in the process of sanding.

oldolds88

what year car are you doing? some years are held on with nuts on the backside,plastic clips ,screws hidden in godforsaken areas. you should be concerned with your fasteners now,because if a new one isnt available,now would be the time to change the mounting hole,or stud placement. your headed the right direction by asking questions. also dont forget to bag and tag your pieces.

rocketraider

Something I've been doing with front fender scripts that are hard to access the fasteners is, once I have the thing off, I ditch the tinnerman nuts and get barrel clips to reattach the script.

You might have to enlarge the stud hole a little to get the barrel clip in, but two advantages: 1) if it ever has to come off again, simply pry it off with a plastic chisel, and 2) the script can be removed to polish and wax behind it.

Worst to worst, if one of those potmetal studs breaks off, use some 3M molding attachment tape to attach the script to the car. Some of the scripts and emblems on me Custom Cruiser had to go that route when it was painted in 2000, and after twelve years they are all still firmly attached.