Lining up Exterior Trim/Moulding
May 2nd, 2010 | 07:33 AM
#1
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Lining up Exterior Trim/Moulding
I see the misaligned trim on the passenger side of my car everyday and it annoys me every time I see it. What would cause the trim from the door to not flow with the trim on the rear quarter panel. From what the Body Manual says the trim is attached either by screws or snap-on clips/panel retainers, so I am not sure how it could be installed incorrectly, but I have never attached or removed it before either.
From the pictures, can someone tell me what would be the best way to attack this. The body lines of the car look good and nothing seems out of whack. Just the passenger side has this problem as the drivers side looks good.
d1
From the pictures, can someone tell me what would be the best way to attack this. The body lines of the car look good and nothing seems out of whack. Just the passenger side has this problem as the drivers side looks good.
d1
May 2nd, 2010 | 05:20 PM
#2
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From: Northeast Ohio
I love a mystery.
Going by the shadows and a straightedge it looks like the piece on the door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure and eyeball to see what's off, the bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
The door should have welded molding studs with plastic bathtub clips and a hole in each end for a screw that goes into a threaded molding clip. It's pretty well locked in, unless somebody got the numbers off if they did new molding attachments? Need numbers.
Going by the shadows and a straightedge it looks like the piece on the door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure and eyeball to see what's off, the bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
The door should have welded molding studs with plastic bathtub clips and a hole in each end for a screw that goes into a threaded molding clip. It's pretty well locked in, unless somebody got the numbers off if they did new molding attachments? Need numbers.
May 2nd, 2010 | 06:16 PM
#3
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I love a mystery.
Going by the shadows and a straightedge it looks like the piece on the door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure and eyeball to see what's off, the bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
The door should have welded molding studs with plastic bathtub clips and a hole in each end for a screw that goes into a threaded molding clip. It's pretty well locked in, unless somebody got the numbers off if they did new molding attachments? Need numbers.
Going by the shadows and a straightedge it looks like the piece on the door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure and eyeball to see what's off, the bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
The door should have welded molding studs with plastic bathtub clips and a hole in each end for a screw that goes into a threaded molding clip. It's pretty well locked in, unless somebody got the numbers off if they did new molding attachments? Need numbers.
May 2nd, 2010 | 08:47 PM
#4
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Posts: 3,282
From: Austin, Texas
Couple ways to attack it but you first need to determine which piece is out of whack. You can either:
>Lower the back of the door piece, or
>Raise the piece on the QP
So...try to determine if it's the door piece..check the door piece along its length and look at the body metal/curvature below the trim piece or measure from the bottom edge of the door up to the bottom edge of the trim piece to see if it's high at the back.
Either way (door piece or QP piece) you could:
1) Remove the offending piece and install new screw in mounting studs near the existing mounting studs and use the new studs to remount the piece. I'd just leave the old studs in place and not attempt to remove them.
2) Or...you could fashion some sort of "filler blocks" along the inside of the incorrecly mounted piece. These filler blocks would be flat along the backside of the trim and would be flush with the backside of the trim. Then you could attach good two-sided emblem tape to these "filler blocks" and stick the trim piece back on the car. You'll need to pre-determine the position of the piece. If the QP piece is in the correct spot you can use the front edge of that piece to guide you when you lay down the door piece with the exposed two-sided tape.
>Lower the back of the door piece, or
>Raise the piece on the QP
So...try to determine if it's the door piece..check the door piece along its length and look at the body metal/curvature below the trim piece or measure from the bottom edge of the door up to the bottom edge of the trim piece to see if it's high at the back.
Either way (door piece or QP piece) you could:
1) Remove the offending piece and install new screw in mounting studs near the existing mounting studs and use the new studs to remount the piece. I'd just leave the old studs in place and not attempt to remove them.
2) Or...you could fashion some sort of "filler blocks" along the inside of the incorrecly mounted piece. These filler blocks would be flat along the backside of the trim and would be flush with the backside of the trim. Then you could attach good two-sided emblem tape to these "filler blocks" and stick the trim piece back on the car. You'll need to pre-determine the position of the piece. If the QP piece is in the correct spot you can use the front edge of that piece to guide you when you lay down the door piece with the exposed two-sided tape.
May 3rd, 2010 | 07:55 AM
#5
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I love a mystery.
door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure...bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
Need numbers.
door is high in the rear? Quarter trim could be low, who knows? You have to measure...bottom of the door should be the same number to the molding across there. Is it the original door, quarter, fender/ same molding attachments or has anything been changed?
Need numbers.
Couple ways to attack it but you first need to determine which piece is out of whack. You can either:
>Lower the back of the door piece, or
>Raise the piece on the QP
So...try to determine if it's the door piece..check the door piece along its length and look at the body metal/curvature below the trim piece or measure from the bottom edge of the door up to the bottom edge of the trim piece to see if it's high at the back.
Either way (door piece or QP piece) you could:
1) Remove the offending piece and install new screw in mounting studs near the existing mounting studs and use the new studs to remount the piece. I'd just leave the old studs in place and not attempt to remove them.
2) Or...you could fashion some sort of "filler blocks" along the inside of the incorrecly mounted piece. These filler blocks would be flat along the backside of the trim and would be flush with the backside of the trim. Then you could attach good two-sided emblem tape to these "filler blocks" and stick the trim piece back on the car. You'll need to pre-determine the position of the piece. If the QP piece is in the correct spot you can use the front edge of that piece to guide you when you lay down the door piece with the exposed two-sided tape.
There's probably a screw (and hole) through the back edge of the door skin so you also need to check if the hole is going to be exposed once you move the door piece down (assuming it's the door piece that's out of whack). You may have to elongate this hole downwards also to get the screw back in (should be a chrome phillips head screw).
>Lower the back of the door piece, or
>Raise the piece on the QP
So...try to determine if it's the door piece..check the door piece along its length and look at the body metal/curvature below the trim piece or measure from the bottom edge of the door up to the bottom edge of the trim piece to see if it's high at the back.
Either way (door piece or QP piece) you could:
1) Remove the offending piece and install new screw in mounting studs near the existing mounting studs and use the new studs to remount the piece. I'd just leave the old studs in place and not attempt to remove them.
2) Or...you could fashion some sort of "filler blocks" along the inside of the incorrecly mounted piece. These filler blocks would be flat along the backside of the trim and would be flush with the backside of the trim. Then you could attach good two-sided emblem tape to these "filler blocks" and stick the trim piece back on the car. You'll need to pre-determine the position of the piece. If the QP piece is in the correct spot you can use the front edge of that piece to guide you when you lay down the door piece with the exposed two-sided tape.
There's probably a screw (and hole) through the back edge of the door skin so you also need to check if the hole is going to be exposed once you move the door piece down (assuming it's the door piece that's out of whack). You may have to elongate this hole downwards also to get the screw back in (should be a chrome phillips head screw).
Okay, I took measurements and based on the pictures it was kind of enlightening.
The door actually measured consistent from bottom of the door to the trim (8 5/8"). I compared it to the drivers door and the drivers door is 8 1/2" all the way across. On this note, based on what you both alluded to, I can/cannot adjust the trim on the door buy loosening the attachment screws and dropping the trim 1/8?? The reason I ask is I took off the screw at the end of the door and the hole that the screw went through was at least 5 times larger than the trim stud! Not sure if this is normal.
On to the quarter panel trim. This measured 8 3/4" at the rear wheel opening and 8 1/2" at the door. Not a big surprise as in person you can kind of see it dip at one end. So, not knowing how this sucker attaches exactly, can I easily manipulate the QP trim to raise it up that 1/4"? Or is this where new trim studs or double sided tape comes into play.
Overview: If I could lower the whole door trim 1/8" and raise the QP trim 1/4" at one end I would be in business (There is a 3/8" difference between the two). Based on the drivers side mounting trim, I am guessing the passenger side was measured and mounted incorrectly. If I could at least get the trim close (+/- 1/8") I would be happy.
I'll wait for advice from the experts before I start tearing stuff up.
Last edited by defiant1; May 3rd, 2010 at 07:56 AM. Reason: typo
May 3rd, 2010 | 03:05 PM
#6
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 194
From: Oxford CT
When I recently took my 65 apart I noticed that the body holes are slightly enlarged where the moldings attach. There is some kind of putty like washer that goes on the stud and when the nut is applied it "squishes" in and around the hole. The hole at the end of the door you referred to is larger than the others as it uses a rubber washer. If you remove the rear side panel and roll the window up you should be able to access the nuts, loosen and remove or re adjust the molding then tighten. If it was ever removed before the putty washer could be mssing or damaged. The putty washers are available. If the door is straight--leave it.
May 3rd, 2010 | 03:08 PM
#7
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When I recently took my 65 apart I noticed that the body holes are slightly enlarged where the moldings attach. There is some kind of putty like washer that goes on the stud and when the nut is applied it "squishes" in and around the hole. The hole at the end of the door you referred to is larger than the others as it uses a rubber washer. If you remove the rear side panel and roll the window up you should be able to access the nuts, loosen and remove or re adjust the molding then tighten. If it was ever removed before the putty washer could be mssing or damaged. The putty washers are available. If the door is straight--leave it.
Good to know. I will remove the rear panel and check it out.
Thank you.
d1
May 3rd, 2010 | 04:42 PM
#8
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2) Or...you could fashion some sort of "filler blocks" along the inside of the incorrecly mounted piece. These filler blocks would be flat along the backside of the trim and would be flush with the backside of the trim. Then you could attach good two-sided emblem tape to these "filler blocks" and stick the trim piece back on the car. You'll need to pre-determine the position of the piece. If the QP piece is in the correct spot you can use the front edge of that piece to guide you when you lay down the door piece with the exposed two-sided tape.
Well, I don't have any screws holding on the the trim on the QP. It looks to be just studs with plastic holding tabs. So, what kind of material can I use for filler blocks? I figured I'd leave the rear plastic tab alone as it can rotate on the stud. Then remove the front tab and place the 3M double sided tape or equivalent to the filler block and attach it that way. The screw hole in the door jamb is my only issue. I might have to drill a new hole as there might not be enough material on the end of the trim to account for moving the trim higher at that end. Any suggestions/comments?
Curious on why the panel studs are not mounted in the right spot. Of course, maybe they are perfect to the world and it is the rest of the car that is off.
The second picture below was taken through the black vent panel on the door jamb (vent removed of course) to show the back side of QP.
May 3rd, 2010 | 05:39 PM
#9
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Okay, I got the trim lined up. Just need to figure out how to attach it permanently so the wind does not rip it off. I will either have to drill another hole in the door jamb or come up with a creative fender washer/clip to go over the end of the trim and still use existing screw location.
d1
d1
May 4th, 2010 | 08:16 PM
#11
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Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,282
From: Austin, Texas
So....the short trim piece on your QP...it wraps into the jamb and is held on with a screw at that end??
Also...on the door ends, as another poster mentioned, yes, the factory seemed to use fairly large holes there for some reason. Probably to provide a little "leeway" to the guys quickly installing this stuff on the factory floor. The screws are similar to the cowl stainless screws in that they have a fairly large OD head on them and also a plastic washer and/or some type of sealant.
Filler blocks---probably too much work but you could do something as simple as fill the backside of the trim for a couple inches or so with epoxy and then sand it flat where it rests against the body. Thus a flat surface you could attach two sided tape to.
If it's just a matter of drilling a new hole for one screw at the front of the QP trim piece in the door jamb, I'd probably opt for that and then do a little creative filling/bodywork/touchup painting over the old hole.
Also...on the door ends, as another poster mentioned, yes, the factory seemed to use fairly large holes there for some reason. Probably to provide a little "leeway" to the guys quickly installing this stuff on the factory floor. The screws are similar to the cowl stainless screws in that they have a fairly large OD head on them and also a plastic washer and/or some type of sealant.
Filler blocks---probably too much work but you could do something as simple as fill the backside of the trim for a couple inches or so with epoxy and then sand it flat where it rests against the body. Thus a flat surface you could attach two sided tape to.
If it's just a matter of drilling a new hole for one screw at the front of the QP trim piece in the door jamb, I'd probably opt for that and then do a little creative filling/bodywork/touchup painting over the old hole.
May 4th, 2010 | 08:28 PM
#12
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So....the short trim piece on your QP...it wraps into the jamb and is held on with a screw at that end??
Filler blocks---probably too much work but you could do something as simple as fill the backside of the trim for a couple inches or so with epoxy and then sand it flat where it rests against the body. Thus a flat surface you could attach two sided tape to.
If it's just a matter of drilling a new hole for one screw at the front of the QP trim piece in the door jamb, I'd probably opt for that and then do a little creative filling/bodywork/touchup painting over the old hole.
Filler blocks---probably too much work but you could do something as simple as fill the backside of the trim for a couple inches or so with epoxy and then sand it flat where it rests against the body. Thus a flat surface you could attach two sided tape to.
If it's just a matter of drilling a new hole for one screw at the front of the QP trim piece in the door jamb, I'd probably opt for that and then do a little creative filling/bodywork/touchup painting over the old hole.
Yes, the end of the trim is connected with a screw at the door jamb. I will need to come up with a plan and the epoxy idea is not bad idea at all. I do have the epoxy and I could mold it and sand it down so it is recessed a little so the trim is not sticking to far from the quarter panel (after the 3M is applied).
Thanks for the response.
d1
May 5th, 2010 | 09:42 AM
#13
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From: Austin, Texas
Another question....If you are moving the QP piece then that means you will be moving the front of that piece that attaches to the QP Jamb with the screw, correct??
If this is correct then you are already committed to exposing the old screw hole so you why not go ahead and drill the new screw hole and use that as your method of re-attachment instead of messing with making the filler block, getting two sided tape, etc?
Also...is it just the front edge of the QP piece you are moving down or does the whole piece need to come down?? In other words, can you leave the rearmost end of the QP piece mounted and just remove the screw and any other attaching clips and then pivot the piece slightly downwards into alignment?
If this is correct then you are already committed to exposing the old screw hole so you why not go ahead and drill the new screw hole and use that as your method of re-attachment instead of messing with making the filler block, getting two sided tape, etc?
Also...is it just the front edge of the QP piece you are moving down or does the whole piece need to come down?? In other words, can you leave the rearmost end of the QP piece mounted and just remove the screw and any other attaching clips and then pivot the piece slightly downwards into alignment?
May 5th, 2010 | 09:58 AM
#14
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Yes, I am just moving the front of the trim upward to make it level with door trim.
That will expose the screw hole so I will drill another hole to accommodate the new position. I looked at other alternatives and nothing looked right.
I am leaving the rear most tab attached and using this as the pivot point in order to raise the front of the trim.
I will still need an additional method to attach the trim. There is a lot of pressure on the lone remaining plastic tab. So much so, that when I had the front of the trim secured and trim pressed on the tab it actually popped off after I shut the door. The vibration of closing the door caused the trim to pop off the tab. So I think I will need some 3M tape in between the front and rear mounting points.
d1
That will expose the screw hole so I will drill another hole to accommodate the new position. I looked at other alternatives and nothing looked right.
I am leaving the rear most tab attached and using this as the pivot point in order to raise the front of the trim.
I will still need an additional method to attach the trim. There is a lot of pressure on the lone remaining plastic tab. So much so, that when I had the front of the trim secured and trim pressed on the tab it actually popped off after I shut the door. The vibration of closing the door caused the trim to pop off the tab. So I think I will need some 3M tape in between the front and rear mounting points.
d1
May 5th, 2010 | 08:24 PM
#15
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From: Austin, Texas
Whatever part of the plastic tab contacts and locks into the backside of the trim is probably worn down and not locking in real securely.
You can probably buy new plastic tabs that mount on the studs. Try Restoration Specialties and Supply (you can probably do some comparing if they have an online catalog showing pics/drawings of all those small Auveco brand auto fasteners they carry).
You can probably buy new plastic tabs that mount on the studs. Try Restoration Specialties and Supply (you can probably do some comparing if they have an online catalog showing pics/drawings of all those small Auveco brand auto fasteners they carry).
May 6th, 2010 | 05:07 AM
#16
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Whatever part of the plastic tab contacts and locks into the backside of the trim is probably worn down and not locking in real securely.
You can probably buy new plastic tabs that mount on the studs. Try Restoration Specialties and Supply (you can probably do some comparing if they have an online catalog showing pics/drawings of all those small Auveco brand auto fasteners they carry).
You can probably buy new plastic tabs that mount on the studs. Try Restoration Specialties and Supply (you can probably do some comparing if they have an online catalog showing pics/drawings of all those small Auveco brand auto fasteners they carry).
Thanks for telling me about Restoration Specialties. I did not realize how many misc tabs and anchors there are. Based on their catalog I narrowed it down to 2 part numbers. I emailed them, so hopefully they will be able to tell me which one I need for my car.
Thanks again.
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