Door gaps
February 19th, 2013, 04:11 PM
#2
car guy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 5,662
What kind of car? Where it meets the 1/4 is it high? Is it an even gap or tapered? OEM sheet metal or aftermarket? Body lines match?
The hinges are the only adjustment. These old cars fit like crap from the factory. The best you an do is split your differences if you are not willing to cut and weld.
The hinges are the only adjustment. These old cars fit like crap from the factory. The best you an do is split your differences if you are not willing to cut and weld.
February 19th, 2013, 06:38 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 80
72 cutlass conv. its a tapered gap...original door, body lines match perfect.
def not cutting but i can get my index finger in it.
def not cutting but i can get my index finger in it.
What kind of car? Where it meets the 1/4 is it high? Is it an even gap or tapered? OEM sheet metal or aftermarket? Body lines match?
The hinges are the only adjustment. These old cars fit like crap from the factory. The best you an do is split your differences if you are not willing to cut and weld.
The hinges are the only adjustment. These old cars fit like crap from the factory. The best you an do is split your differences if you are not willing to cut and weld.
February 19th, 2013, 06:44 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 80
February 22nd, 2013, 01:09 PM
#6
i did not read the other posts but get the door gaps on both even or very close too plus fender. adjusting is trial and error and you sometimes with aftermarket hinges really need the time. the hood to fender tops within 1 eight of a inch same procedures you need shims for the front and go for even gaps throughout plus consider detailing the shims after also for no rust etc. deck lid to qters the same 1 eight of a inch and sometimes with some persuasion you need to adjust the hinges down and look out for high corners from thick seals if needed persuade the metal down and look out for the pinch weld and the after seal it if needed and touch up alsio. I mean the corners and use a 2x4 to wack with i mean persuade,if the deck lid needs to go up use longer bolts and washers or shims and no perticuliar brand either all over nobodywill really know anyway. the bumper brackets can be grinded or moved within to proper gapping make them even also on both ends.
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