When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I feel sorry for anyone who has to work under the dash with AC too. So many valences and hoses to remove....
It's not a problem for me as that is all I have known since 1977. Maybe if I ever had one with no AC it would make me think how difficult my life has been, but then again, I can't have a non-AC car where I live.
Well now - let's compare notes:
My 1971 OLDSMOBILE CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL has a date on the inside cover of 1970 General Motors Corp. Litho in U.S.A. My CSM ends on page 15-54 ACCESSORIES. My CHASSIS ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS section begins on page 12-1. My A body wiring diagram/schematic is located on page 12-4 and is titled Fig. 12-3 A Body "V-8". The colors of my wiring diagram/schematic is different from yours as is the diagram in general. I can tell you all of my courtesy lamps in the diagram are colored orange. We have two different CSM manuals. There are several handwritten notes in mine on the inside front cover e.g. 16 JUL 75 38,888 NEW PLUGS, 20 JUL 75 39,000 NEW POINTS, 24 JUL 75 39,700 LUBE with some additional handwritten notes pertaining to dwell, timing, spark plugs and the like. Perhaps I'll scan it for you (maybe), but they're different.
It's not a problem for me as that is all I have known since 1977. Maybe if I ever had one with no AC it would make me think how difficult my life has been, but then again, I can't have a non-AC car where I live.
Just remember that the nuts on those bolts have likely been on for awhile. I'd give them a spray of PB Blaster or similar penetrating fluid and let the sit for a day before going in there. It's a bit of a tight clearance so make sure you use either a 6 point socket or 6 point wrench to avoid rounding off the nuts. Use a wood block to tap the bumper. Go gently as you don't want this to move a lot. When you have the bumper in place cinch down the nuts to at least 90 lb/ft on your torque wrench. I can't see the kind of washers you have on the bracket itself. There will be 2 per side. Any chance you can get a reasonable shot of those? They should have small 'teeth' all the way around the perimeter to dig into the bumper bracket.
Hey Allan here are the pics of my bumper hardware. It looks like the washers for the chassis brackets are MIA, and the bumper nut washers are smooth...agreed?
Dave,
There's too much flash to see for sure, but I think someone in the past has removed the bumper bracket and used the wrong hardware to reattach it. Believe it or not it makes a difference especially when the jack is being used on the bumper. I found that out from experience. Check the washers and bolts on the front of your car too. The chrome bumper bolts should be fine - they use smooth washers and a locking bolt.
The washers you should have look like this, Note the serrated edges that grab into the metal of the bumper bracket to ensure it never moves after fastened down.
Dave,
There's too much flash to see for sure, but I think someone in the past has removed the bumper bracket and used the wrong hardware to reattach it. Believe it or not it makes a difference especially when the jack is being used on the bumper. I found that out from experience. Check the washers and bolts on the front of your car too. The chrome bumper bolts should be fine - they use smooth washers and a locking bolt.
The washers you should have look like this, Note the serrated edges that grab into the metal of the bumper bracket to ensure it never moves after fastened down.
Duh! I was thinking the serrations were on the outside. I'll take one of the bolts out and check the side that faces the bumper bracket. Either way, I need washers on the chassis brackets, right?
