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1972 Cutlass door adjustment

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Old May 23, 2010 | 12:47 PM
  #1  
silverriff's Avatar
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1972 Cutlass 455
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 323
From: Baltimore, MD
1972 Cutlass door adjustment

I am in the process of doing some body work and systematically priming it. I have a question about how to adjust the fitting of the doors. I noticed that my passenger side door sticks out quite a bit from the body on the bottom of the door. The leading edge against the fender is alittle off too, but not too bad. I also think that this missalignment may be causing some lack of "pop" when I try to open the door from the inside. So my question is how to push the bottom of the door back in to line it up better. The door itself is in very good condition, and it doesn't sag at the hinges or anything, just seems like it needs to be pushed back in a 1/4 of an inch. Any suggestions?
Old May 23, 2010 | 05:03 PM
  #2  
redoldsman's Avatar
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Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Rowlett, TX
Are you sure it is not the fender that needs adjusting? It is a heck of a lot easier to adjust than the door. Just a thought.
Old May 23, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #3  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
IF it sticks out on the bottom at the rear quarter, then the door needs alignment.
If okay at the quarter and not at the fender, then the fender may need it intstead.

To do the door, the hinge bolts on the DOOR will need to be loosened and the door bottom pulled inward. Yes, it is much easier to say it then to do it. It will take a support at the door bottom and lots of trial and error. Tape the door edges and be carefull when opening and closing during adjustment to prevent paint chips.
Old May 23, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #4  
silverriff's Avatar
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1972 Cutlass 455
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 323
From: Baltimore, MD
Yeah it's actually the whole bottom if the door that is sticking out. The gap on the quarter isn't too bad, but could be flushed up some. The fender is flush, gap is ok, just looks like the door has to come up some. But as I said, the bottom if the door sticks out from the sill almost a quarter of an inch, it's very noticable. Not too mention that it seems to not be sealing up as well as it should, both the window glass is off some, and a lot of crud, i.e. leaves and stuff are getting inbetween the door, fender, and windshield. I am in the process of priming everything so chipped paint isn't an issue. I am just concerned that it may be more of a frame issue. After sandind the entire car down I have found a lot of evidence of extensive repairs. Seems like both front fenders are off another car, both doors off ANOTHER car, and the passenger side quarter panal has been completely replaced. In any case I will try to adjust the door tomorrow and post my results. Thanks for your help!
Old May 23, 2010 | 06:38 PM
  #5  
lshlsh2's Avatar
71 cutlass convertible
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,170
From: Trappe, MD
when I adjusted the door on mine I used a floor jack to support the door. Protected the bottom of the door with cardboard and a rag.
Larry
Old May 23, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #6  
442_Mustang's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 544
From: Princeton Minn.
Fit the rear of the door to the quarter panel and rocker panel. The quarter is a non moveable part. Then you need to fit the fender to the front edge of the door. Many decent cars have looked crappy because of poor panel fitment. If you only loosen the 3 bolts on the bottom of the hinge to the door, you shouldn't need a jack under it.
Old May 23, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #7  
lshlsh2's Avatar
71 cutlass convertible
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,170
From: Trappe, MD
I used the jack for support when I put the door back on. Also to adjust the door up as it was to low. For a minor adjustment probably don't need the jack.
Larry
Old May 24, 2010 | 05:54 AM
  #8  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Originally Posted by 442_Mustang
If you only loosen the 3 bolts on the bottom of the hinge to the door, you shouldn't need a jack under it.
This will only work if there is enough slop in the hinge bushings. If the bushings are tight then both hinges will need to be loosened. Forcing might work but will cause hinge binding and premature bushing wear.

I supported my door open on a step stool (with wood shims on top) with carpet on it all.
I loosened the bolts just enough to hold it firm and able to move when I pushed and pulled it. It will take a while, so be patient. Adjust with window down and door striker removed.
If the hinges have the required sealer under them, it will be necessary to break that loose before the door will move.
After it is aligned and tightened, reinstall the striker.
Old Jul 7, 2011 | 09:24 AM
  #9  
Del70's Avatar
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 541
From: Mich.
Anyone know what the door gap/margins specs are? (anyone have a Fisher body book 70-72 who can look them up?)

thanks
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