I guess it's a common issue with 70-72 convertible "A" bodies. The decklid above the trunk gets stress cracks right where the factory welded/leaded the rear quarter to the decklid area.

Went to a shop and they said they would have to grind down on the area but NOT remove the welded seams due to the lead and extra welding work required $$. In turn, they then would use some type of bonding compound that is used to seam metal panels together. The paint shop claims that the bonding compound will hold the seam and it won't crack in the future.

Does this sound legit? Price given for the work was around $800. Which includes respraying the entire trunk area to blend the newer metallic blue paint.

 

Well, if you look at the stress cracks as "factory correct" then you don't need to do anything with them.

 

It sounds like a fair price. Not sure about the adhesive but I do know there are some great products out there today and a lot of the newer cars have panel adhesive to join. My concern would be the cracks reappearing and paint match. Perhaps a body guy can chime in?

 

The factory used flexable seam sealer-the last person to prepare the body probably did not

 

I made the mistake of removing the original lead or filler (can't remember) from that area, Filled the area with some long forgotten alternative, it ended up with hairline cracks picking it up on 4 point lift before it ever hit the road.

IMO weld the seam solid (vert or hardtop), cut a faux seam into hardtops, use "All Metal" or similar filler to finish off a convertible. I've never fixed mine after 15+ years
on the road, just waiting for some small disaster to happen to car, then I'll fix it. Hopefully I never have to fix it!

 

Panel bond is a great product but not a great filler. Tends to move in the hot sun and show the seam.

The trend today like bccan mentions is to remove the lead and weld a strip briding the seam. Or re-lead it.

 

The shop doesn't have access to lead. Will have to find an alternative. How about panel bond and then flex sealer to top it off?

Painter said that he would re-blend the paint and spray the deck lid to match the new paint.

 

Some shops use all metal or fiberglass fillers in the factory joints. I haven't had any success with it. It shrinks/moves and shows the joint. That is why shops will weld a strip to bridget the gap and leave a consistent metal bridge. It is actually more consistent than lead but lead sure is quick.

I'm not familar with that joint but panel bond does bond the metal. If they have to spread it on top then the line will be visible in the sun. Check out out some of the quarter panels that have been flanged and bonded. Some videos around that show this ghosted line. I'll have to look up what that joint looks like. If it's like a 69' Camaro then you will be fine with panel bond since the joint shows with seam sealer on it. Those were spot welded and never had any lead in them.

You have to remember that your car is in their shop. If you have the internet tell them how to do it then they might show you the door. I know, I've done it.