71 Cutlass Ragtop

I need some guidance in removing the molding the off of our deck lid. I want to reuse it if possible. I'm thinking that it will take some heat to do this. Thanks in advance.

oldspackrat

Not exactly sure which molding you're talking about? If it's the 1/8" or so stainless piece at the bottom edge, that is held to the underside of the deck lid with phillips head screws. Remove them & use a small hammer & maybe a flat screw driver to gently tap it off a little at time from one side to the other? If not that one, the other types are held on with 3/8" or 7/16" speed nuts from behind. If you mean the "Cutlass" script on the right lower side, I believe it is held on with barrel nuts & the 3 studs on the emblem just push into them. You can gently pry that emblem off/out with a flat screwdriver, maybe put a layer or two of electrical tape on the end so as not to scratch the paint?
Hope that helps.

Allan R

The deck lid reveal is held on just as Scott says. Take out all the screws first. Then start removing the center piece first. The 2 curved sections are also held by the center straight piece. The moldings on the quarter panel extension are held by speed nuts on the inside of the extension.

You can buy replacement molding screws for these trim parts; they have a small plastic washer under the screw head to prevent rust/oxidation. The trim is stainless and can be restored to high shine finish.

Do NOT use heat to remove the stainless or you could damage it.

Fun71

The 71-72 Supreme and convertible models do not have that script - they have individual O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E letters across the rear/lower decklid. The letters are held on with the stud/nut system you described.

Allan R

Ken, sorry but I've found otherwise with the OLDSMOBILE letters. They are easily removed by prying them up. The studs for each letter are simply held by barrell clips in the trunk sheet metal same as the Cutlass script or 442 numbers.

71 Cutlass Ragtop

I was referring to the trim piece along the edge of the lid. I had removed the screws and found some glue or what looked like a little glue along the edge. After a little work everything came off nicely. Any suggestions on what polish should be used on the stainless? Thanks again for the terrific advice, guys!

oldspackrat

Try some 0000 steel wool followed by stainless steel polish maybe?

Sampson

Not sure how much stainless you have too polish but I bought a buffer from Harbor Freight for $35.00 and it did a great job. I had some pieces that had deep scratches sanded them out with 800-2000 sandpaper and then buffed with the polisher. Those pieces came out almost as shines as chrome..

Allan R

Just have to be really careful with the polisher as the long pieces tend to bend easily. Take your time and not a lot of pressure. Let the polisher do the work.

Steve - did you use jewellers rouge just prior to the final polish?

71 Cutlass Ragtop - you can also remove any small dents by careful use of body hammers. Then do as Steve suggested with the sanding/polishing. That's what the pro's do when restoring stainless. The big thing is knowing what's stainless and what's anodized aluminum. Your deck lid trim is all stainless.

76olds

I use diamond paste on die sections after stoning and wet paper . I polish prior to sending them for heat treat. I figure this would work great on trim pieces.

Allan R

Why would you send stainless out for heat treating???? Sorry but that makes no sense to me.

76olds

Allan, I had built several meat grinders for a company in which ground up the cart ledge as well as a machine for grinding turkey, chicken etc, which produces the turkey burgers at a higher rate of speed and so on, The series of plates used after machining left fine cutter marks . These fine cutter marks began to collect the juices ( so to speak) and if not cleaned on a daily basis would build up bacteria, and therefore contaminate the ground processes. As well as begin to bow slightly over time. So to rectify the problem I had to send the stainless out and heat treat them to 56-58 rc , and polish so things would flow thru better without the collection of juices in the cutter marks without bowing and warping with the pressures. The machines that grind up the cart ledge also have to be same as this is used as filler in animal feeds. I hope this answers your ?
If your next ? will be why not plate them, the plating wears at a slower rate however wears off in the first few stages of the grinding process, as this is where the most screw pressure begins.

Eric ( Storm Tooling Inc. )

Allan R

I'm not sure it answers the question about sending deck lid trim out to be heat treated, but I understand your process in the speciality culinary supply issue. Deck lid trim simply doesn't need it IMO. The sanding and polishing should do the trick quite easily. Before I installed my deck lid trim on my 72 (fine scratches, I only had to use 600 wet, 0000 steel wool, and then chrome polish to bring the shine up really nice. Bottom line is I'm happy with the results and it didn't cost me very much material - just the time (which I have plenty of). I'm sure 71 Cutlass Ragtop will find something that works well for him too.

76olds

My response was using diamond paste for polishing out fine imperfections on stainless, I suppose I provided too much needed info as to how I use the diamond paste on stainless. I figured it would be useful on trim pieces as well. Your absolutely right thou no need to heat treat trim pieces lol. Sorry if I gave that indication.

Allan R

All's good now that we're on the same page. Gotta come down to Orangeville sometime and grind some chicken with ya! Love turkey/chicken burgers

76olds

Lol, I just design and build custom machines and equipment at times, I don't do any type of the meat grinding. But Hey if and when your in the area, we could fire up the Barbie and have a few Jacks. Cheers Put-r-ther.

brddg

Turkey burgers and deck lid trim. I would've never made the connection without CO!

76olds

Imagine that eh!! Only on CO do you get the full menu With the ?'s as to additives.

71 Cutlass Ragtop

Had the deck lid soda blasted. Getting it to bare metal we found a nice crease along the top seam as if someone sat on the back or put some serious weight on it. Also exposed the surface rust. Should be picking it up from the paint shop on Monday. Thanks for everyone' s input and culinary advice