Hot 442

Does anyone know / remember the location of the DIY thread on a paint job I read here on a '72 Cutlass? I believe it was bamboo in color...could have even been a Cdn car.

I cant for the life of me locate it thru search etc....

Considering a DIY job or at least a partial DIY job anyway. She needs a bit of metal repair over the rear wheels and patch panels at the bottom of the fenders and thats well out of my expertise. I was considering paying for the bodywork then doing the rest myself.

coppercutlass

post pics i do body work and i can help in anyway possible.

2blu442

Bamboo.... Canadian..... Sounds like Tony72Cutlass'S'

I just tried the search option and struck out, so you might send him a PM

coppercutlass, I'll keep your offer in mind! Everything in my driveway needs painted and I plan to learn how to one of these days

John

coppercutlass

anyone with body/paint questions feel free to pm me. i like being able to help people out.

Allan R

Copper is a great resource, if you can work something out with him he's gives honest and accurate info. Just have to interpret his spelling a bit (sorry bout dat Copper ) I think he just types too fast.

Tony72CutlassS has a Bamboo Cutlass S he did himself. Wondering if that's the thread you're looking for. Here's his contact page if this is the car you were thinking of https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ss%27s%27.html

Just wondering where you are located?

coppercutlass

Allan i would be lying if i said you where wrong. I type too fast for my own good. My other issue is not going double checking it lol. I have been getting better slowly but im getting there. My hand writing is not any better lol. Where you wondering where i was located or the op ?

Highwayman

Is this it?

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-finally.html

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Bamboo paint for the win!

You bet i painted my car on my own. I'm going to give her a bit of a freshen up this summer. Perhaps buy some proper paint, some nice clear coat.

Honestly, for under a hundred dollars. My paint job came out pretty well. Most of the work that i put in was buffing the final product with a compounding material.

Allan R

Copper, I was wondering about the OP. Depending on where he is there may be some guys from the site who are close enough to help him.

Higwayman - Great find. I remembered that car, but not the thread title.

Hot 442

YES!!!!!!!!! Thats the one!

Thx so much fellas. It was killing me.

Coppercutlass - thats awesome that you are willing to help out. Ill post some pics of my car. Im undecided if I should do it myself but Tony72Cutlass'S' has inspired me big time. I am thinking about sending it for the fender patch panels (both sides) and some metal work on the trunk edge and rear wheel openings....then prime, fill, block and finish the job myself....but Im still unsure what to do.

I am located from just east of Oshawa, Ont Canada - where theyve just announced they are closing the GM plant June 2013!!!! Good thing I dont work there!!!!

Hot 442

Coppercutlass....let me know what you think of the damage...

Hot 442

Heres one more of the roof. Its a close up of what I sanded with a DA sander from what was once rust...and is now a discoloration on the smooth surface.

Question is what do you do with this surface? Just prime over it or treat it with something (what?) then prime it??

I have some of this on the trunk surface too and I suspect elsewhere when I remove the rest of the aged and cracked paint.

Sorry guys Ill make sure to rotate my phone next time....

Gary's 2 442-S

Hey thats my thread. Lol. I would glad to give you any help. I did everybit of my own work right in my garage. Made mistakes along the way but I finally got it all done.

Hot 442

Hey Gary, I'm curious on a few things....like what size compressor did u use and what gun(s) etc? What paint, primer and filler did you use? It looks GREAT btw!

I've been looking at buying an hvlp bc/cc gun then I have another older gun I've actually never used that is siphon type...I figure I'd use it for primer. I need to educate myself a bit first and decide if i want to buy the gun, supplies, paint, reducer, clear etc only to be upset at the outcome... I cold end up shelling out 1,500-2,000 just in materials alone.

Gary's 2 442-S

I purchased a paint gun from Eastwood,it is by DEVilbiss and it has three tips,a 1.3,1.4 and a 1.5.It is a HVLP gun. I used the 1.3 tip to shoot the base coat and the clear coat. I also purchased a three pack set from TCP Global the gun is I used with a 1.5 tip the shoot the primer. My compressor came from Sears is a 33 gallon upright and it worked very well for me, I used PPG paint and also their epoxy primer. but they also have a line that is called Shop line which supposed to be a quality paint at a fraction of the cost, but the place I got my paint from said they could not color match that brand. You are going to spend 1500- 2000 in equipment and supplies without a doubt. Maybe more but I looked at the tools as an investment. Replacing panels is going to require maybe a mig welder. That is what I have. I had never used one before buy I learned by practicing on some sheet metal. My filler I used is called ALL Metal. I really like that product. It cures like metal.

Gary's 2 442-S

Also dont be surprised when you get to cutting off the metal around the wheel wells, you probably are going to find rusted outer wheel well housing. I ended up replacing both of mine.

coppercutlass

Ok hot442 your rust is not so bad. Start cleaning it up ., get whatever filler is there off to expose the rust dont focus on getting it off just yet on the quarter., clean it all up untill the metal is nice and solid . The roof by the window have the window removed clean it up and see how bad it is. Once you expose those i can give you a good plan of attack. It isnt all that bad i would not pay someone to fix it because the most expensive part is fab work which is usually 75 dollars in my area and is usually open book time. You can hand shape and make those patch panels with simple tools. What ever you cut off use as a template to shape your new pieces.

Hot 442

Okay great thx!

I'm going to get some stripper first and get rid of all the old lacquer.

Geeez talk about sticker shock. A buddy of mine sent over a guy who runs a restoration shop. Mostly muscle car era work - some collision and insurance work too. The guy has a ton of muscle cars in his shop now. He looked over the car and I asked him for a ball park....just body and paint base clear job - before the actual number crunching he gave me a figure of $8,000 and he'll need it for a few months.

Ouch.

I basically need door corners fixed (both sides), some trunk lid lip work, fender patch panels (both) and the work you see on both quarters. Otherwise the car is solid as heck. He was quite impressed at its condition and liked the fact it was a Mississippi car. Canadian cars are typically rotten and seized at this age.

Wasnt planning on 8 grand thats for sure, but the high cost of materials has put the cost through the roof it seems. Still considering getting just the body work done then maybe do the rest myself....

coppercutlass

Well there is a link to my facebook feel free to check out the pics from my restor same kinda work you can get an idea if how I did some stuff. I think I spent under 3500 all said and done including patch panles and paint etc.

Hot 442

Great thanks. Ill pop iinto it now and have a look see.

Im just questioning the 8 grand. It seems like a ton of dough. I realize theres a ton of labour involved here but jeez I didnt expect 8 grand. I had another quote from a shop that does mostly collision and insurance work but has done some custom work for 5,500...but that was single stage...plus add 300 for painted stripes and 800 more for bc/cc!

coppercutlass

Its just an estimate. One you really dig in it could be a lot worse and it could go up. Some give you a low price to get you in but once they call you have you come in asee how bad it is and how much more it's gonna cost you are pretty much stuck at that point.

Hot 442

Yup this is the problem. I have a Grand National that I restored and have had for 8 years. If I go that hard core into a dollar commitment I'll have no choice but to sell it.

I bought stripper today and tried some on the fender. Worked great. I'm gonna tackle the entire fender tonight see how that goes.

I'm still fairly certain I could do a DIY job and have it look great. Guess I'm worried about spending the dough on the paint etc then screwing it up. I guess I can't screw it up that bad though...some runs or dirt can always be cut and buffed......

Hot 442

Here's a couple pics before I hit the rack. Just finished up in the garage tonight.

Chemical stripper works pretty good but messy......

coppercutlass

Btw off brand paint works great i used eastwoods single stage black on my girlfriends k5 blazer and it looks great and has held up great for 3 years for 100 bucks i cant complain. It can also be cleared over.

Hot 442

I'm really torn as to what I should do. If I commit to either decision (DIY or shop) I'm stuck with it. I'd really like to do it myself for the experience and to be able to say I did it myself but I'm worried how it'll look.

Coppercutlass- looked at your pics on FB pretty cool. Congrats on all that work. I was looking at buying a Devilbiss gun for the job if I decide. Someone on Refinish network.com recommended the Tekna. I'd also need a gun for primer too...I have an old siphon type from Campbell Hausfeld that came with my compressor when I bought it. No idea what tip and it doesn't say either....will this gun be ok? Or should I buy another....

rougebeats

I have to agree with Coppercutlass. The first paint job I ever did was with a budget paint. It was Dupli-color Championship White Basecoat and Dupli-color Clear with Flake. I did 3 coats of prime/2 coats of base, and 4 coats of clear. It turned out beautifully, and it was because I asked a lot of questions, and prepped everything correctly. You can lay down the same beautiful paint job with budget materials as you can with high dollar materials as long as you remove all the rust/clean and prime/ and prep correctly. If done correctly, budget materials can have the same look and longevity as high dollar materials. You are doing the right thing by asking lots of questions before you start. Although it is sometimes hard to get a straight definate answer since everyones experiences are different, I think everyone can agree that proper prep is key to ANY paintjob. Good luck with your paint job and dont be scared to practice on some old sheetmetal with the paint gun you plan to use.Take your time to do it right, or make time to do it again. -Rougebeats

rougebeats

Hey Copper-Is the blazer clear coated over SS in the above picture?

MX442

No. Buy another. I'm not a real painter, but I had great results with the deVilbis finish line guns.

coppercutlass

A devilbiss starting line is what I use. I have gotten so used to it I don't like the sata's I have tried out. And @ rougebeats no that is single stage no clear

Hot 442

Ok cool. So I should look to buy a bc/cc gun plus another for primer?

I saw a kit on TCP GLOBAL.COM had 2-3 guns in it...believe that was a bc/cc gun plus two others for primer. Maybe I'll buy that..

Once the car is stripped to bare metal what's the next step? Rust Converter then filler? Then etch primer? I'm sure u can't put filler over etch primer so am I right that u use rust converter and then filler, then etch?

coppercutlass

Bring it to bare metal , treat the rusted areas, apply etch primer to the whole car, when you put your filler on remove/ sand off the etch primer and grind with 36 grit the area you need to apply filler to. The devilbis starting line kit is great I had it and I still use those guns I have had them for 6 years.

ziff396

Nice job! I used the starting line 3 once or twice and bought a Devilbiss Plus. I'll never go back! It's a compliant gun that really puts out the paint and atomizes great! Wide open, you need to move fairly quick. It has about a 12" fan.

coppercutlass

I can get close to 12 on the starting line. I have learned that sparying with that gun and a 1.3 tip reducing the single stage sprays awesome. And there is certain clears I really like to use with that gun. I like the dupont nason select 2k and the transtar hi tech clear . Base coat is like water so it usually is no issue.

Hot 442

I'm having a tough time distinguishing between the Finishline, Startingline, and the Tekna guns from Devilbiss. They all seem to come with the various tips, are they just minor variations in performance?

What brand/type etch primer should I go with or what would you guys recommend? I have the car half way stripped now and won't be long for the other half.

I'm planning for a bc/cc water based paint maybe from PPG.....maybe you guys can guide me what brand would be best quality and ease of use for a first time painter?

coppercutlass

The devilbiss starting like with the blue clolored tips. should work fine. I would not use wateborne unless you had the proper drying system it does not dry by process of evaporation it is force dried. ppg is good i would use the dbc line or even their shopline brand isnt' so bad. You will get a 1.3 paint tip gun for base and clear and a primer gun with 1.5 and 1.8 tip for primer and a 1.0 tip touch up gun. I like the dupont etch primer or the transtar olive gree etch primer. then follow it with a good high build or even polyester primer .

Hot 442

Okay great!

I don't know much about paint here but can I get anything other than a water based bc/cc? I thought they have all eliminated the solvent paint....I'm up in Canada if that makes a difference....

I'd buy the solvent paint if I can....seems like the easiest stuff to work with dry with for a DIY job like mine right?

coppercutlass

yeah solvent paint has not been replaced completly. You can still but it from many vendors. Find a local paint supplier and they should be able to hook you up. Try autobodytoolmart.com They sell sherwim williams paint which is pretty good. and fairly priced they are right down the street from me but they are a big warehouse that sells anything you need at fair prices.

Hot 442

Okay great thanks for the help!

Solvent it is! It seems from what I've read here and there that many guys seem to prefer the solvent stuff...easier to work with etc? Siu ds like the industry is eliminating solvent eventually soi guess these guys will need to learn to love it huh

coppercutlass

from shops atleast., just like you can still buy laquer paint .,solvet paint will always be available. For the hobbist it will always be available. In mexico they still use enamle based paints because most cars are just plain reds or blues etc. plus no epa.

Hot 442

What do you figure I'll pay for the etch primer, polyester primer, base and clear roughly. Assuming I use the DBC line??

Just lookin for a ballpark here....