Can't open door--need suggestions
#1
Can't open door--need suggestions
My passenger door won't open, using either the outside handle or inside pull. I can feel the resistance when I work the inside lever (it feels normal, not disconnected) but it just won't release enough to get the door open.
It's been difficult to open for a while now and I've procrastinated fixing it....just long enough for it to break completely.
I suspect the original latch mechanism is worn or broken. So far the only idea I can come up with is remove the passenger seat, TRY to get the inside door panel off without damaging it, and working at it that way.
Is there another way I can work at this? I don't want to damage anything if I can help it. Not sure I can get the inside door panel off without damage but if it can't be helped it can't be helped.
BTW this is a '70 convertible.
thanks!
It's been difficult to open for a while now and I've procrastinated fixing it....just long enough for it to break completely.
I suspect the original latch mechanism is worn or broken. So far the only idea I can come up with is remove the passenger seat, TRY to get the inside door panel off without damaging it, and working at it that way.
Is there another way I can work at this? I don't want to damage anything if I can help it. Not sure I can get the inside door panel off without damage but if it can't be helped it can't be helped.
BTW this is a '70 convertible.
thanks!
#3
Have you tried pulling the door up while pushing the button or pulling the inside lever? Might take two persons, however...
My DS door was stuck originally, turned out to be a worn out / misadjusted hinge and the locking mechanism being off only a few 1/16"...
My DS door was stuck originally, turned out to be a worn out / misadjusted hinge and the locking mechanism being off only a few 1/16"...
#4
Try rolling down the window and with a light, look down in the door to see if you can see the latch levers moving when you move the inside lever and/or press the outside button. Maybe you could get something on the levels to pull or push on them a little more than the handles will to see if that would do it. And like was mentioned, lift up on the door using the outside handle. It will be a little tight with the glass in the way but worth a try before tearing things apart with the door closed.
#5
I've managed to open a few doors by rolling window down and using a small hose pour oil into the latch and the next day it would operate.
As a last resort I have also managed to remove the door panel and with a prybar tear the latch assembly apart to release the door.
Henry
As a last resort I have also managed to remove the door panel and with a prybar tear the latch assembly apart to release the door.
Henry
#6
if worse comes to worse take the fender off and remove the hinges and move it around until sucess. the latch and rod usaully are the culprits. The distance is usaully the problem between them,or the spring in the door handle.
#7
I'v ehad several doors that are just plain stuck, handles and latches working fine but can't open door.
Easiest and safest method in my experience is a crowbar with a cloth on the end INSIDE the car, prying in the door gap, pulling toward the dash while engaging the inside handle.
Steve
Easiest and safest method in my experience is a crowbar with a cloth on the end INSIDE the car, prying in the door gap, pulling toward the dash while engaging the inside handle.
Steve
#10
While it will likely require the techniques described above, before you take any drastic steps, try cycling the lock mechanism a few times. Try it with both the inside lock **** and the key. As the latches get worn and lubricant dries out, the lock levers can sometimes stick, causing the latch not to work.
#11
One more idea, try partially jacking up the car from a couple of different frame points. A little flex in the right direction could help if it's jammed due to alignment, especially on a 'vert. Door panel is not that hard to remove if all else fails.
#12
OK, here's what I have...what now? (long)
OK, finally got the passenger seat out, the seatbelt retractor, the door handle, window crank, door pull, and then the inside door panel and water shield.
Rolled up the window and gave the latch mechanism a good shot of WD-40. However, it appears that everything is working. All the little levers and such move.
I forgot to mention earlier that the door is about 1/4 inch shy of being closed all the way.
I tried many times to push it further closed. Finally after about the 40th try it closed the rest of the way and the latch caught. That's the ticket! I was then able to open the door. So it appears that the problem is one of adjustment. I think the latch is only catching on the "safety" or second catch. I closed the door again with a hard slam, but it didn't close all the way and I'm back to where I was.
So, the question is, can I adjust the striker with the door closed? It looks like I could get a Torx bit on the striker bolt (the pin in the jamb that the latch "catches" on). There is a slot in the latch mechanism, thru which I can see the end of the striker bolt.
Perhaps if I loosen the striker a bit and move it outward a little? This would cause the striker to contact the latch a tiny bit earlier, perhaps letting the latch go to the second catch, before the door hits the stop.
Hope this makes sense, and thanks for any suggestions!
Rolled up the window and gave the latch mechanism a good shot of WD-40. However, it appears that everything is working. All the little levers and such move.
I forgot to mention earlier that the door is about 1/4 inch shy of being closed all the way.
I tried many times to push it further closed. Finally after about the 40th try it closed the rest of the way and the latch caught. That's the ticket! I was then able to open the door. So it appears that the problem is one of adjustment. I think the latch is only catching on the "safety" or second catch. I closed the door again with a hard slam, but it didn't close all the way and I'm back to where I was.
So, the question is, can I adjust the striker with the door closed? It looks like I could get a Torx bit on the striker bolt (the pin in the jamb that the latch "catches" on). There is a slot in the latch mechanism, thru which I can see the end of the striker bolt.
Perhaps if I loosen the striker a bit and move it outward a little? This would cause the striker to contact the latch a tiny bit earlier, perhaps letting the latch go to the second catch, before the door hits the stop.
Hope this makes sense, and thanks for any suggestions!
Last edited by mv213; February 2nd, 2014 at 05:10 PM.
#13
I don't think the striker has anything to do with the problem because you said the door will close all the way with enough attempts. So for now, leave the striker alone before you end up with more adjustment issues. If no one touched the striker in the past and the door worked correctly, the striker position is definitely not (edited to add the word not) the problem. And when the door does only close part way, that will not cause the latch to be difficult to operate. It sounds to me like your latch is worn out or damaged and may need to be replaced. Open the door and with it open, use a screwdriver to push the latching mechanism in the latch closed as if it was coming on contact with the striker. See what happens and if it moves freely. You could try to oil it but I still think you may need another latch.
Last edited by 69442C; February 3rd, 2014 at 12:32 PM.
#15
Thanks guys, sounds perfect. I should be able to try it this weekend....
By the way it is really great having knowledgeable folks standing by to help guys like me and others who need some advice. I am 54 and still learning things every day...thanks again!!!!
By the way it is really great having knowledgeable folks standing by to help guys like me and others who need some advice. I am 54 and still learning things every day...thanks again!!!!
#16
Fixed
OK, first of all thanks to everybody who made suggestions, I actually tried many of them. Especially 69442c who's suggestion to test the latch with a screwdriver convinced me that I was reading the situation correctly once I got the door open.
Here's what I think happened: A few months after having the car painted I took it back to the paint guy to have him install the door glass, and also make a minor adjustment to the door gap. I think he adjusted the hinges but didn't look at the striker location. Anyway a few months later my wife started complaining that the door was difficult to open. Naturally as a good husband would do I ignored her complaint until it was too late and wouldn't open at all.
Once I got it open again, I tested the latch and it is working perfectly, with a nice spring action. (it was cleaned and lubed before installing). The car only has 73,000 miles so I didn't think it should be worn out but lubrication could have been an issue.
I could see the striker was just under 1/4" low of being centered in the latch opening, so I moved it up and closed the door. Bingo! Working like a champ. I also ended up moving it in less than 1/8" to line up the back edge of the door with the jamb opening. Before moving the striker I marked it's location with painter's tape so I could revert back if necessary.
I was so happy to get this working that I rewarded myself by ordering a set of assembled Legendary door panels to upgrade the PUI ones I've had in place the last four years! Hey, I needed new watershields after taking the door panel off, so you might as well, right....
Here's what I think happened: A few months after having the car painted I took it back to the paint guy to have him install the door glass, and also make a minor adjustment to the door gap. I think he adjusted the hinges but didn't look at the striker location. Anyway a few months later my wife started complaining that the door was difficult to open. Naturally as a good husband would do I ignored her complaint until it was too late and wouldn't open at all.
Once I got it open again, I tested the latch and it is working perfectly, with a nice spring action. (it was cleaned and lubed before installing). The car only has 73,000 miles so I didn't think it should be worn out but lubrication could have been an issue.
I could see the striker was just under 1/4" low of being centered in the latch opening, so I moved it up and closed the door. Bingo! Working like a champ. I also ended up moving it in less than 1/8" to line up the back edge of the door with the jamb opening. Before moving the striker I marked it's location with painter's tape so I could revert back if necessary.
I was so happy to get this working that I rewarded myself by ordering a set of assembled Legendary door panels to upgrade the PUI ones I've had in place the last four years! Hey, I needed new watershields after taking the door panel off, so you might as well, right....
Last edited by mv213; February 16th, 2014 at 09:47 AM.
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