Can anyone tell me what will fit in a 67 442. I have a 400 bored over 60 in there now just had the intake gasket changed added a catch can The guy test drove it blew a little leak in front by the water neck ,this car had a lot of blow by
Since it was rebuilt 3 years ago, I'm thinking of putting a 350 if I can find one,This block is a e block it .60 bore is this the max for this My guy is doing a leak down test already did a compression pressure ck 120-130 that's good right, But I can't keep putting money in this BB that's why I would like to know what will bolt up to this as far as motor mounts ect, am help I can sell this block it has c heads Please Help
Merry Xmas
Steve

 

any of the 330, 350, 400, 425, 455, are pretty much bolt in, other than diff. waterpump lengths

 

Your body style originally came with a straight 6, 330, or 400, as stated earlier anything goes.

 

Dont give up on the E block 400. They run hard when built properly and maintained. Plus it may be the # matching engine for that car? IMO if you should go in any direction put the 400 on a shelf and install a 455. A 455 in stock form will run well. Think torque. The 350 in stock form wont be as torquey.

 

Is the radiator, thermostat, upper and lower rad hoses, and fan clutch (if equipped) in good shape? If so, make sure that the water pump and timing cover plate are sealed tight (the timing cover plate can be a troublesome source of leaks (especially if it's warped or corroded). I too would hang on to that E block if at all possible.

 

I was reading a article on e blocks am I right they can be bored up to 100
I think the rings never seated right or something it runs fine but to much blowby
The reason I ask is I can get it rebuilt what ever for 2k how's that price I was hoping that it did not need any boring there only 4 k if that on this engine
Steve

 

E-400's are hard to find, and a great engine if well built.

I suggest you tear it down and have a competent machinist assess the bores and rings and pistons. Maybe the rings were installed upside down or the bore was not honed right for the rings.

I think you can go a LOT more than 0.060" on the E400. But, finding that bore size in FLAT TOP high compression pistons might be difficult. Don't rule out other-brand pistons.

 

Thanks guys I'll let you know how it goes
Steve

 

You might try re-seating the rings as a last resort (there's plenty of info on how to do this on the Net). I know some people don't believe in this, but it can work in some cases.

 

Hi everyone I decided to bite the bullet on this and The place that was recommended to me was Carolina Machine Engine in Johnston South Carolina
Any one dealt with them,
Steve

 

I got a stupid ? Do all 400 olds have a valley pan because I don't have one is that a problem
Steve

 

No, it is not a problem. Fel-Pro makes steel shim intake gaskets that are two pieces without the center valley pan section, plus the composition gaskets are two pieces without the valley pan.

I haven't used a valley pan on my engine for 15 years or more and there hasn't been any issue.

 

I know on the 330's there is a catch tray bolted to the lifter galley area. I'm not sure of the 400's. The ones with the tray used a 4 piece steel gasket set, the engines without the bolt in tray used the turkey pan.

 

Thanks Guys

 

I heard from the guy today he said a couple rings were backwards, The cam has some worn lobe's I should no the whole story by wed
Steve

 

Cool, that should not be too bad then.

 

It sounds like the engine is torn down for inspection, thats good. What else was not assembled or measured properly. The whole thing is suspect. IMO I would inspect everything, measure, verify that all clearances are in spec, inspect the oil pump etc...Its apart so go through everything again. You dont want to do this a 3rd time.

 

I'm waiting to get the download but they said something about the valve springs being to tight? Or pushrods wrong screwed the cam and lifters up
I'll update later

 

You really need to make sure who ever is working on it knows Olds engines. They are far from a Chevy.

 

Update, waiting for pistons,are they hard to get, I was told the valve springs were to tight ,screwed up lifters and cam 2 rings on wrong ,they were two scored pisitons so they bored .10 maybe next week If this normal for getting parts for this engine
Steve

 

So they bored your .060" over engine to .100" over without checking on piston availability beforehand? That .100" over bore (4.100") is a non-standard size for any Olds engine. I am not familiar with what's available from other makes in a 4.100" bore, 1.615" compression height, and .980" pin diameter, so you may need custom pistons. That's not necessarily a bad thing as you can get exactly the compression ratio you want in a lightweight piston with a performance ring pack.

If this is what they're doing, then Yes, that is normal for getting parts for any engine, not just Olds.

 

are you having carolina machine engines (cmengines.com) build your engine?
i just had a 455 built there... Joe and Mike are pretty good guys... let us know how your experience is with them...

just a note... they put in a solid plug, instead of the one with the oil hole in it for the distributor... something to check for if they're building for you

 

Personally I would use the 4.087" .030" oversize Probe 350 pistons if it was already .060" oversize. Great part about the short stroke big block's is the pistons interchange with the 350.

 

That is the best way to go. Use 350 Olds pistons in the "E" block. .030 350 Olds pistons should do the trick.

Gene

 

Yes CMEngine is doing it,
naphtali5725, how long did it take To rebuild yours,Last guy that rebuilt it said it was bored over 60,well they were wrong it was over 30,I guess I got screwed the 1st time.They have the pisitons in so I should get the engine back by next week This company was highly recommend ,I'll update when it's back in the car They picked it up on 01/05 so not bad for time ,
Thanks guys
Steve

 

took a few months for mine...

 

any updates?

 

Not yet I got the engine paint for them,last I heard there were making sure that the push rods were right size ,I guess this year engine was only make 2 years,
That's what I was told ? So I should get it back this week coming,I'll find out for sure Monday 1st cruise in around here is April ,I'll update soon I hope
Steve

 

good luck, keep us updated

 

Hi all I got the engine back today 2 problems I need a 6" water pump and some paint They painted it but for the water pump when I find it ,I read a post somewhere that vtr paint matched good 67 was a different color good any Ideas Please
Steve

 

I got the water pump same as a 71,455 , 6" same bolt pattern ,now I'm waiting to get the engine in It not my garage so I got to wait? suppose to be this week,I hope I getting a little PO. At the whole thing
I'll keep you updated
Steve

 

well I got the engine back in and running ,It runs great put in a stock cam runs smooth, I would recommend them ,Carolina Machine And Engine
Johnston SC Great guys, I have a wiring problem The Gas Gauge Pegs full with key on,Idiot hot light comes on and Its not hook up, And the A/C Heater don't work I have to find the wires ,The A/C compress kicks in from wire under dash when Jumped So I sure its simple Just got to find it,
Steve

 

The hot light will come on if the wire to the sender is finding a ground or in the key on position / with engine off as its in the test circuit. Fuel gauge means its an open circuit. A/C is anyones guess...

 

Eric,Everythings fine now a couple wires screwed up a/c Ice Cold
now I just got to finish the efi adjustments what would be a good timing set for this its set at 6 now I talked to the engine guy he said 10 to 12?
I guess ill try 10 1st
Thanks Steve

 

What distributor?

 

Depending upon the distributor and how it's set up, the initial could be anywhere from 6 to 20.

The better way of doing this is to set the total advance to 32-36 and then just check the initial to see where it ended up, and record that for future use.

 

I second that, set the total advance ..

 

Disconnect and plug your vacuum advance line until you get your timing set and then work on it, try to keep it under 50.

 

Steve great advice from everyone here so I dont want to run over it. This has been discussed a gazillion times here, do a search(Google works better for generalized searches).
The short answer is give your car as much timing as it will tolerate. My 455s & 400s like 12-14 base. Another 10-12 on the can. Then the rest all in at 2700-3000 for a grand total of 38-42. The way I build them this seems to work the best fore me. All 3 events need to be tweaked to your application(along with the fuel curve). You can use two different springs on the weights to obtain a custom dial in. And what distributor are you running?
Steve