HI.. question to all the guru's... I have a 68 455 in a 68 442. Block is a F block out of a 68 delta 88 I owned., I rebuilt the motor years ago ( 1997 ish) original heads were cracked apparently.. at that time I knew nothing about heads and blocks and all the info that is out there now.. I had to have the car in running condition to get it on a moving truck to get it to where I am now in MN.. Anyway, at that time the place I took the heads found me a new set of heads.. they are Ga heads.. At the time I recall discussing them with the place that did them and talked about hardened seats and also larger valves..ect They said they said they had hardened seats and valves were as big as they could be ? not sure that that means.. I see from some of the info the Ga heads could come with the larger valves..so maybe these have them? anyway.. The car has been sitting since the move in 97 and now I am ready to start the restore.. I want to pull the motor and have it gone thru and such, and if needed make some changes. I have found some local C heads for sale.. but not sure if there worth picking up or not.. I have included some pics.. Guy wants 250 OBO.. looks like they would need a ton of work and not sure that they would be worth the effort vs what I have now. Objective of this rebuild would be to have a good strong fun motor.. I don't intend to do any serious racing and such.. But would like to leave a nice set of posi tire marks for a couple blocks or so, lol like I used to be able to do with it !! I don't know what heads were on it back in the day.. The motor came out of a 68 Delta 88 and only had a 2BB carb and intake. I now have a 4 on it and different cam ( not sure of the cam specs, but at the time I used the specs of the 70 W30 motor to pick a cam) so maybe changing cams is in orders as well.
Thanks again..

 

I would get a set of procomp's instead.

 

honestly those are 150 at most
c heads are out there very common
just my 2 cents

 

By the time you are done rebuilding them it will cost you almost as much as the new set of procomp's. Procomps are making iron obsolete.

 

So what your saying is.. that .. if I was going to change out the heads.. might was well just go with some after market heads.. VS restoring the C heads and probably my GA heads that are already bought and paid for and working will be fine for now ? lol.. I think that's what I'm thinking anyway..

 

I wouldn't bother with the C heads since you already have a good set of heads on the engine. Your current heads and the C heads are very similar in flow rates, so all you would be doing is spending money to get what you currently have.

 

x2. Stock irons are a waste of money unless it's a matching build and you're going for all original.

 

Cool.. thanks defiantly not matching build..lol.. just want it to be fun and fast and reliable.

 

Nothing wrong with iron heads. The GA and the Cs are just about the same. Just run what you want. No reason to put some cheep Chinese parts on your american motor, in your american muscle car.......

 

I'm with f-85 not a fan of the Chinese stuff...

 

I have not messed around with the ProComp heads yet, but the feedback on them has been very positive. For the money , I think they're a pretty good deal. Hell Smitty sais they are even better than the E-brocks in some areas, more material for porting. I have showed you guys in the "Home Porting Techniques" thread how to make a set of SB cast iron heads outflow the Procomps out of the box. Hell according to the information compiled in this thread-
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/...formation.html
the stock C casting heads flow better on the intake port, but the Procomps flow better on the exhaust side. Just think of the posibilities of ported BB cast iron heads. Also, it has been said the components in the stock Procomp heads should be upgraded and the valve job is rather inferior.

Cutlassefi posted: x2. Stock irons are a waste of money unless it's a matching build and you're going for all original.

Just this once, I have to dissagree. There's plenty of guys going fast with warmed over cast iron heads. Let's crunch some numbers quick. If you already have some good BB cores, with good guides, and seats, you could pick up a set of stainless steel, swirl polished, back cut 2.07" intake, 1.68" exhaust valves, from Bernard Mondello, for $120 for both sets. Now ad $250 for cleaning/ resufacing/ check for cracks/ quality 3 angle valve job. Now you have just spent $370 on some heavy metal junk heads, that will outflow the Procomps on the intake side, (where it really matters). If you're trying to save weight or really just have over $1000 laying around, go ahead and buy the Procomps.

 

@ joesw31
My objective is to build a reliable, solid strong motor.. I want to be able to drive it around and not have to worry about constantly F'ing with it.. LOL.. So in not looking to build some 500+ hp monster.. But I am willing to do some Head work , or what ever to give it some extra HP.. Maybe a different cam.. I know the one in there now should be similar and maybe even a bit more agressive then what was used in the 70 W-30 motor.. That was what i had specs for at the time of the rebuild.. so that was what I went with. It has the original push rods in it, and probably timing chain. I think i replaced the lifters ( but dont recall) I know i had the rope seals so that should probably be replaced. Also i had to swapp out some of the Rods, so there is a mixed set in there and dont think they were marked when it was pulled apart anyway.. So need the lower end balanced.. I had the block acid dipped and done .030 If I recall.. some new pistons, Cranks was ground .010 if i recall, but i don't recall if anything else was done to it. ( talking regarding, or any of that stuff suggested by Mondello)

So game plan is to get the motor out and to a reputable re builder ( I don't think i want to do it?? or maybe i do?? I am capable of doing it.. i guess. i did it before.. LOL. ) But i just want to make sure its done right.. Get it balanced, possibly look into some of the mods suggested by JOE MONDELLO ?? I was reading some rebuild literature by him and seem like there is lots to do that i didn't do.. Oil restrictions here and there and cross drilling mains and other stuff.. ?? Maybe that doesn't all have to be done??
Need a different intake and carb... I have the Edlebrock Torker 455 with some Holley 4BB carb i got a deal on back then.. The carb is for Marine application I think, so IDK if it will work.. but the whole assembly is to tall and I cant get my hood back on as is.. So looking for advice on a intake and carb combo that would be best ... or at least intake. will have to do more research on what carb i have..
anyway.. thanks for the input and advise... I want to do it right this time .. last time i was under the gun to get the thing running..