Started to dig into the engine today and that is going to be interesting.
Anyway it did not take long before the first issue appeared.I can't
get the lifters out.This is not because of varnish,they are clean and shiny.
It seems they are burred(if this is the right word) on the lower edge.Guess some of you guys have experienced this ,so I am seeking advice.

 

Generally if the lifter is really concaved like you describe, the cam is wasted also. I would pull the cam and then push the liters down. It will keep you from major damage to the lifter bores.

 

After the cam pushes the flat tappet lifter up so many times it slightly mushrooms out the bottom so it is hard to pull them out the top. Removing the cam first (which might be a lil tricky) would be the best way.

 

Make sense.
The engine was running ok,but now one thing after an other shows up.
I wonder what shows up when I pull the heads?
Supercars unlimited offers a complete rebuild set for 1400,any experience with that?

 

X2, you'll obviously need to get them far up enough in order the get the cam out but do what he said. Push them from the top down once the cam is removed.

 

I was looking through some of your threads, I'm assuming this is a 68 442, but what engine is in there?

 

Had the same problem on a junk 455 once, pull each on up as high as it can go and put a rubber band around it several times, or do them in pairs with a rubber band around 2 of them. It'll hold them at the top and make it easier to get the cam out.

 

How far do you plan to disassemble the motor? Is it out of the car? Is it on a stand? Is the oil pan off?

 

It has the original engine.The stamping matches the VIN.Probably a TPC though.

It is out of the car, on a stand and the oil pan is off.
I can pick it to pieces if thats what it takes.

 

Get the right tool for the job. KD sells a lifter removal tool.

 

Joe we advised that if the lifters are galled that much they should go out the bottom to prevent damaging the lifter bores...wouldn't that tool be to forceful for a badly mushroomed lifter?

 

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Here it is all out.The lifters were concave at bottom,worst in front cylinders in rear they were flat.Could lift them straight out there.Sure I can see that both the lifters and the cam are used,but how much is acceptable.

 

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This is how I did it.

 

Good job, do you have any close up pics of lifters and cam.

 

Tomorrow night,it's getting late here.

 

Might not hurt to install a little more aggressive cam, new lifters, timing chain, timing gears, and water pump while you have the engine on a stand. That is if your not going to do a complete rebuild. The parts mentioned are not that costly and will save changing at a later date.

 

Might be a rebuild,the head are still on,so it depends on the condition of the cylinders I guess.

 

Glad to see you got it out...great idea using the zip ties! Good luck with the rest of it!

 

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Here are some pics.,do not know how good they are.
I am not able to attach more than one pic. per reply
is that normal?

 

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Here a pic.of the worst part of the cam.How do I identify the cam?

 

the cam grind number is usually stamped at the very end of it on the flat. then a little research will reveal its specs. but if it needs replacement.. .then its specs really don't matter a whole lot... unless its just to satisfy curiosity.

John

 

It's hard to tell from those pictures, but since you have it out, and the cost of a new one and a set of lifters is really not that expensive. I'd put in new.

 

Looks like fairly normal wear for a 40+ year old engine. How many miles on it?

Assuming the rest of the engine is in good working order, just install a new cam, lifters and timing set.

 

The cam is really worn...

 

I'm going down the same road you are withh a 70 455. I bought the lifter puller from NAPA for 20.00 Go on and break the motor all the way down at this point( I am). Mine started with a bent push rod. Now all parts are at the machine shop. I'm doing a .030 over clean up, doing the heads, crank, new cam, lifters, pistons. But I'll have a motor that will be good for LONG time. If you don't you'll be second guessing yourself later. I'm doing all to W 30 specs. Life's a bitch sometimes but what the hell you can't take it with you

 

I have used some of the stuff they sell and I highly recommend them. Greg is a very knowledgable guy on Olds cars. He has been doing just Oldsmobiles since I met him back in the 70's I suggest you call him and he will really be a wonderful resource for parts and knowledge. He has race tested most of what he sells.

 

Those aren't so bad. I once removed some from a chebby big block that were so bad that they had holes worn through them.It was still running before removal.

 

I'd say: do the overhaul.
Where do you think all that worn-out material went?
Through the motor, with the oil!
Cut open your oil filter just to see how much went through the bearings, etc., making them sandpaper.

 

Good question.The odometer shows high 50k.
Dont know which lap it is on.
If you can read something from it ,the car still had the original ball joints in the front suspension and the were ok.Did these parts use to last 150k or even longer? Of course it depense on driving style,and road quality.

Cam, lifters etc.will be replaced.

 

My 67 still had all the original suspension components that were still good, with the exception of the control arm bushings. They were pretty much shot.

 

My 72' with original 350 had 200k miles on it (according to PO) and original internal parts. Ran like a top but I found the same thing you did when it came apart. About half the lifters were less than paper thin on the bottom & there was so much slop in the timing chain I'm surprised it didn't skip a tooth. Still dont know why it never made a sound when it was running. Guess its that old Oldsmobile reliability.

 

Same with my motor. The lifters were as described in this guys motor. Never had the first miss or noise but when I got into it it had a stuck valve and I almost could take the timing chain off by hand. So I'm makin her new