455 Engine Rebuild Stall Selection
#1
455 Engine Rebuild Stall Selection
I am rebuilding my engine this winter and going with Edelbrock Performer RPM cylinder heads, Wiseco forged pistons, 10:1-10.5:1 compression and comp cam custom grind hydraulic roller with 230-236@50", 284-290 adv duration and 505-517 lift. I plan on re-using my rods and crank, I have 3:73 gears in the rear end and a TH350C tranny.
I currently have a 2200-2400 stall converter and have inquired from different builders of converters and have been told what I have is fine from I need a 3400-3600 stall. It will be a street car with very little track usage.
What has anyone with a similar build done as far as stall size?
I currently have a 2200-2400 stall converter and have inquired from different builders of converters and have been told what I have is fine from I need a 3400-3600 stall. It will be a street car with very little track usage.
What has anyone with a similar build done as far as stall size?
#2
Since it is mainly a street vehicle you should stick to the smaller converter. A simple rule of thumb is this: If it's a race vehicle you want to match the stall speed to the engines torque peak which is closer to the 3400-3600 you mentioned. For a daily driver you should try and match the stall speed to where the engine just 'gets on the cam'. I'll explain. Pull your cam card and see what the RPM range is on it. It will be something like 2000-5500. What ever that lower RPM is the point the engine 'gets on the cam'. You'll want to shoot for something close to that and your 2200-2400 converter would probably be just perfect for that cam.
You could also get a 'Switch-Pitch' T400 like I have and get the best of both worlds
You could also get a 'Switch-Pitch' T400 like I have and get the best of both worlds
#4
A Switch-Pitch is a transmission that has the ability to have two stall speeds. In their original form when you mash the throttle a switch was activated that would put the converter into high stall mode allowing greater torque multiplication and faster pick up. Essentially the converter's internal vanes move or change their 'pitch' angle. When lying flat there is less resistance inside the converter allowing it to spin to a higher rpm more easily and when in low stall they offer more resistance and a lower engagement speed. I use a simple switch on the shifter to change mine from low to high at will. My particular converter is out of an old Jetaway and is about 1800 low stall and 3300 high stall.
#5
For the engine and car as you've described it, I would stick with the converter you've already got (assuming it's of good quality). I think you'll find it fine for your intended usage. If not, you can start shopping then.
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