Can someone tell me for certain what I have here? Just starting my research on a 455 I bought that came out of a '68 Toro. I was told it was running when removed from a 70's era Ford, but that it was making noise. I found this as the likely cause of the noise. Can you say "slipped harmonic balancer?"


Is this what a crank bored for a standard transmission looks like in real life? If it is a standard, vs auto, crank, then that means this is a fly wheel and not a flex plate - correct? The block does have the bored and threaded bell crank pivot mounting boss.

Another curiosity - I've not seen the "T" following the "F" casting mark before. Does this indicate a Toro casting?

 

That is a flex plate. All automatic transmissions use a flex plate no matter if the crank is drilled for a pilot bearing or not.

 

The picture looks like a crank that is (not ) drilled for a manual transmission.

 

Wow! I've never seen a balancer outer ring move like that!

I've never found a steel crank in a 1968 Toronado but others have. Look to see if the notch on the rear flange is U shaped or a check mark.

Here's a picture of a manual transmission crank. Note the stepped areas so a pilot bearing or bushing can be driven in. If your needing one of these check with your favorite machine shop to see what he would charge to cut out the hole in your crank. I'll try to attach the drawing with measurements. I had my machine shop use a lathe to cut this out of a 425 crank to use in an early 400 engine I wanted to put a 4 speed against. I gave him this drawing and it worked perfectly!

 

One more thing, I think that's an F1 not an FT.

 

I had a damper ring move in on a 80 Z-28. It made a whining sound as it rubbed into the timing cover.

question for the engine builders out there. Can the Damper rubbing against the front of the motor cause any thrust bearing issues for the OP.

 

Thanks so much, guys. I appreciate your help. As you've taught me, I have a crank for an auto trans, plus the flex plate that goes with it.

2Blu, I believe you're right. I took a closer look at the original pic at full resolution and it is a "1." Any significance to that? I know the rumor about higher nickel content is bunk.

I'm doing other work on the 442 that this engine may wind up in (right side in my signature pics) at some later date. I spent the day removing the rear axle for a complete rebuild and refinish. I took the brake lines off, drilled out and removed the bushings. I pulled the diff out, marking the bearing caps as to Right and Left, and Top. All the other rear end parts had already been removed a few weeks back, and got cleaned, bushings removed, prepped and repainted last weekend. Well, except for the brake lines... I bought all new from Inline Tube, for the rebuild. It will go from a peg-leg 3.23:1 to an anti-spin 3.42:1 Installation of the new bushings is next, while I locate a shop in the Denver area to do a chemical/acid dip of the axle housings and "pumpkin" prior to refinishing. Any opinions or suggestions regarding finish? Paint VS powder coat?

I'll tear down the 455 and do a full inspection before trying to use it. When I get to that point, I'll have the crank machined for a manual trans, just in case. Thanks for the drawings, 2Blu! I did actually hear/see it run briefly in that 70's ford P/U it came out of. It ran OK, but there was definitely a low grinding whine to it. Now we know why!

Thanks again for your help!