EdsDelta

My setup currently has the stock single exh. system which includes a cross "Y" pipe from the Driver's side to the passenger side (under the oil pan) manifold then out.

I've been looking at '66 Toronado stock maifolds, and I'm sure they'll bolt on.. but will they get in the way of the rest of the drivetain. I've seen the Olds FAQ conversion table, I don't really trust it.

I figure one of you regulars have tried something like this. (BTW thanks for your support and keeping these forums interesting!)

Oldsguy

Ed, I did this on my '69 Delta, in two steps. First, I simply cut the crossover short of the junction on the passenger side, diverted it to it's own exhaust pipe which ran parrallel to the passenger side until spliting off to the driver's side somewhere near the middle of the car, and, welding shut the junction opening just below the passenger manifold. I ran this way for about two years but didn't really like it.

When I rebuilt the engine I acquired a toro type driver's exhaust manifold which dumped at the #7 cylinder closer to the firewall instead of between #3 and #5 cyclinders, this was done to allow the exhaust (down) tube to go straight back without snaking around the steering box. However there was some interference problems, the manifold didn't completely clear the box so I did two things.
1: I cut the manifold collector diagonally from bottom to top and rotated it until there was a little more clearance then welded it back together(actually had a weld shop do it)
2: I raised the engine up 1" by modifying the motor mounts. No, there was no fan (electric), carb (no spacer), or tailshaft (TH400 long shaft) issues and there is no vibrations at all. Everything still fits and there is now ample clearance for the manifold.

Back to the exhaust, I cut the whole junction off the passenger exhaust manifold, cutting a line parrallel to the rest of the bottom of the manifold, then weleded a flat piece of stock over the hole. This got rid of that nasty "pocket" of dead air space which I figured could only cause turbulance right where it could cause the most damage. Again, I had a welding shop do this. My down tubes are 2.5" and then enlarge to 3" about a foot back from the manifolds. I am very happy with this setup, the only thing I would do in retrospect is not dump the turndowns at the axle, it is a little noisy at very low rpm. I really think the crossover being right under the oil pan contributes to shorter oil/engine life, it has to radiate a ton of heat to the oil pan.

Our B body cars are difficult to fit headers, I don't know of any out of the box. Custom headers are the only alternative and they cost big bucks. I have maybe $90 to $120 in the parts and labor on the manifold modifications (including modified motor mounts) and then another $289 in the exhaust parts and labor. So my whole setup cost less than $500. I don't think that can be beat.

[ July 16, 2004: Message edited by: Oldsguy ]</p>

EdsDelta

A user sent me this digital pic of their B body 425ci Olds (I think it was a 1966 Ninety-Eight) with an OEM exhaust "block-off plate" of sort. I've seen these on eBay too.

I agree that there would be a "pressure pocket" created by the stock driver side manifold if the Y-pipe were to be sealed off.

The Y pipe that runs under the oil pan is a huge downside, i.e. the engine temp and lifespan.. super-heated oil is the last thing you need on a bigblock hitting high RPM. I've read about paiting that pipe with white paint.. which I doubt makes any significant changes in temp.

I can see how moving the engine up 1 inch would benefit the process. Did you notice any differnce in front-end handling? I would think it could affect the center of gravity.. maybe not?

[ July 17, 2004: Message edited by: Edsdelta ]</p>

Oldsguy

Ed, Sorry for the delay as I only get to my e-mail on weekdays.

About you question of negative effects of moving the engine up, I have experienced none. I reasoned that many people do engine swaps all the time and yes it is true that often handling problems have occured it is mostly due to have a heavier engine (since usually it is small block to big block swaps). Remember, I had to do that to clear the steering box, you may not. I have noticed that the earlier B bodies seem to have even more engine bay space than even my Delta does, what with longer front ends, more chrome and bumpers out front, etc, etc. So, you may not have to do that all. I really encourage you to take a serious look into doing this on your car, I really believe the biggest benefit is engine longevity due to cooler oil. I also added an external tranny oil cooler and may do so with the engine oil as well. My car is a daily driver, not a show car and not a drag car. It needs to last. I think with some care in designing changes, clean fabrication, and meticulous upkeep, a daily driver can be impressive and if shown occasionally will draw attention to itself. Anyway, good luck and let me know how it turns out.

Btw, I saw those block off plates after I had a weld shop do the first change I described.

jdorour

WOW!
You guys go at this the hard way.
You can do two things other than use a Toro Manifold.
On the Left you can get the correct duel exhaust manifold (P/N 384893, casting code S) these can be found on all 1965 and 1966 Starfires and some 1965 to 1970 fullsize cars. You will also need to fabricate a shift link that goes from the frame to the trans if you do not have a floor shift. Or you can keep the single exhaust manifold on the left and have a custome pipe bent for the left side. You will need to do this anyway with the toro manifold.
On the right side just cap off the cross over port. thia is what was done at the factory on B and C body cars with duel exhaust.