I have a 69ish 455 destined for installation in my '70 Cutlass. The engine was running fine (from a reliable, knowledgeable source) when it drove the car off the trailer about 16 years ago, and was kept covered although the car was stored outside for years. It turns freely by hand and the spark plugs looked good. Unfortunately I don't know much about the engine's specs. It has a fair bit of oily buildup on it as would be expected on a used engine with more than a few miles on it. Edelbrock Torquer intake, stock heads, stock rockers from what I can tell, Has an Edelbrock carb of unknown CFM which I plan to replace. Possibly ARP fasteners on the intake and the headers. I'm about to put it on an engine stand to prep it for installation...

Question 1 - What would you check and replace before installing? I intend to remove the valve covers, clean up the rocker areas, remove the oil pan and see what there is to be seen and give the whole thing a general clean/paint routine. I'd like to fire it up before throwing it in the car.

Question 2 - I might convert the car to a 4 speed (currently automatic) and will need to have the crank machined. Machine shop wants the crank out of the engine. What can of worms will I open if I remove the crank for this work? I'm more accustomed to aircooled VW engines where splitting the case means you need to be prepared for a full rebuild...machining, bearings, etc.

 

Invest in a leak down tester. Remove the spark plugs. Turn the crank until the cylinder you want to test is at top dead center with the valves close. Clamp a couple vise grips to the flywheel, position them so they contact the engine block, preventing the crank from rotating. If the leak down checks out, move on to the next step.


Pull the oil pan, inspect the bearings. If the bearings look good, replace the timing chain. Inspect or replace the oil pump. Inspect/replace the freeze plugs. Basically, inspect or replace the common wear items while the engine is out and everything is easy to get to.

As for your 4 speed dreams, technically you can get the crank out with the engine assembled. The process is outlined in the service manual. Personally, I’d either skip The manual trans, or completely disassemble the engine to get the crank out. Of course, by that time you might s well completely refresh the engine.

 

x 2

 

All of what Matt said and:
This engine is dry after being static for 16 years. It needs to be primed then compression checked. You may want to borescope it before rotating?
1. Drain and fill with new oil.
2. Pull plugs and pump 1/4 cup of 30W into each cylinder. leave out the plugs. Dont crank it over yet.
3. Pull the distributor and manually prime the oil pump while looking at the pushrods for oil. tip:Secure the socket on the extension with black tape so you don't drop it in the engine.
4. While priming the pump counterclockwise hand-turn the engine several times to evenly distribute the oil in the bearings/cam.
5. After everything is good n oiled then crank it over on the starter to remove the remaining oil in the cylinders. (plugs still removed). Crank it long enough to see 30-40 psi of oil.
6. Button it up and fire it (out of the car) Watch the oil pressure with a manual gauge. (Don't see much and it clatters shut it down now it's teardown time).
7. If all is good flush the hell out of the cooling system.
8. Once installed in the car run it for 20-50 miles and change the oil and filter.

Should be fine if it's been well serviced, fairly low miles, and no surface rust accumulated in the cylinder walls? You are in BC not Phoenix.
Do a compression check after it runs for a few mins to clear the oil from cylinders.
Assume the timing set and valve seals will likely need attention. Then the MAWs start in.

 

It looks like you'll have a good plan with suggestions listed here. Beyond that, I'd replace the core plugs/frost plugs...what ever you guys up north, call them.

 

Much appreciated, gents. I'll start with the oil change, priming and leakdown then see if it's worth investing more time/money as a runner.

I had my doubts about the wisdom of removing the crank without being prepared to go all the way, thanks for confirming that. I think there are probably enough miles on the bottom end that leaving a sleeping dog be is the best route at this point. I haven't decided my long term plans for this car so the purse strings aren't opening too much yet.

 

I think you have two options: A. Rebuild the engine, machine the crank, source the trans, rebuild it as needed, convert the car to manual now. B: Get the engine going via all the above posts, enjoy it as an automatic for now, then source trans and plan for an engine teardown and rebuild and crank machining later maybe.

This begs the question, what's the skinny on the transmission in there? If that's a TH350 of high miles in there, a 69 455 in decent shape will use it plentifully, and an upgraded 455 might hurt it. I think you want plan B for now?

 

Plan B seems to be the best route for now. This is one of three cars I have and like but realize that a day is coming where I really need to choose one and sell the rest. It's a hard decision lol. I'm not sure if this '70 will make the cut yet so the lower investment option makes the most sense. If it's the one to keep, revenues from selling the rest will more than cover a good rebuild and trans upgrade.

The engine will be mated with the TH400 (long tail) I got with it. The whole driveline was in another '70 that I parted out, including a limited slip rear end that will likely be going into this car.

 

All right, you talked me into it. :-D