so it seems my timing is about I__________I that far off lol. and then when i was working with a guy to fix the timing by turning the distributor cap we founfd the damn thing won't turn ><. any ideas or suggestions or am i just doing it all wrong. PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

If your timing is that far off you may need a new timing set unless you just put one in and the distributor is way off.

PS: Did you loosen the holddown bolt.

 

yeah i did loosen the hold down bolt lol.

 

o and just to make sure what is all included in a timing set?

 

Normally a cam gear, crank gear and chain. Some companies may have kits that also include the gaskets (Sealed Power CTS-1006)

 

It could be because the points rubbing block is badly worn.

It sounds like the aluminum distributor housing has welded itself to the steel block. You're just going to have to "persuade" the distributor to move with a wooden mallet, without bending or breaking anything. Take the clamp and bolt off to be sure they're out of the picture. Use plenty of KROIL or other high-quality penetrating oil, preferably over a period of days, with occasional sharp raps to encourage the oil to wick down between the parts.

It'll come loose.

- Eric

 

Being gentle, use a pry bar on the vacuum advance canister.
Just want to put a weee bit of torque on that housing.
Jim

 

You did mean the distributor and not the "distributor cap," yes? And you did loosen the distributor ty down, yes? With an engine that is running on a regular basis, it's rare that it's distributor is frozen.

 

how about alittle brake fluid around the bottom of the distributor. Carefully. This WILL work after sitting a day or two. Used it on a distributor that sat in a block f/ about 20 years out in the weather. In three days it was loose. Prying and beating may cause unwanted DAMAGE.

 

Typed this one prior to any replies and left it (not sent) on the computer screen until this morning.

 

its cool, the thing is i try to run mine on a regular basis but before i bought it it sat for the longest time i do believe, and also had a waterproff (nonbreathable) car cover on it for 3 years while the guy was in iraq so........ but i do believe like stated earlier the timing chain might have slipped. And since i have never changed that out before i was wondering what is needed to be bought/how to go about this and fix it that way

 

just one good twist after letting the thing sit with pb blaster over night and she twirled just fine

 

so after messing with the damn timing and all that today i tried to twist the dist and it wouldn't go AGAIN, are they not supposed to twist when the engine is warmed up or something?

 

You've just gotta work that puppy.

More penetrating oil, work it around, and loosen it up.

 

well it will twist fine when the car is cooled, like right now i can just twist away on it, but after the block heats up... she wont budge, is there something i am missing or is it supposed to tighten up when its heated up?

 

Should be loose when hot.

Try warming up the motor and moving it every few minutes as it warms up, with some penetrating oil (or 50/50 ATF acetone) in there. She'll loosen up.

 

sicky didnt the car just have the motor rebuilt before you got it ? I would call the guy you got it from and check with him on the chain or were going to talk you into pulling it down and putting in a new timing set but hell your that far you could put a cam in and a roller rockers and port the heads since its apart yahoo.

 

it had a rebuilt on it like 10 years ago i do believe, firefrost, and lets not talk about dissembling my engine just yet lol. it will time itself it is just trying to figure out why the distributor is doing what it is doing lol.

 

just planting the seed my h/o friend i thought from talking to him when i was looking at it it was more recent.

 

it could be i got the paperwork on it somewhere, but when it did get the rebuild he put the cam upgrade in it to match the original specs on the H/O

 

Have you been able to set your timing now that you can turn the distributor?

To check your timing chain for wear you can pull the fuel pump off and check for wear/slack in the timing chain with your finger. Rock the crank back and forth and check for slack. Also look at the rotor and see how much free movement the crank has before it moves.

Olds distributors like to stick. I have had it happen on several motors. I put them in with anti sieze now. I have had oil pump rods that stick in the bottom of the dist. and come out with them. They act like they will not lift out of the block and you have to pry/pull them out with the oil pump rod thru the clip that is supposed to hold it in the block. That sucks.

Nice looking H/O. Good luck with her.

Brian

 

lol we have a great place called Alamo Speed Shop and for 120 bucks they tune your car (carb also) and time it along with looking over the car for major things that need to be done. so she is timed and all that jazz now and on a good note there is nothing MAJORLY wrong with her. she basically has lil stuff wrong with her and basically needs a frame off restore or restore in general.

 

Easier than pulling your fuel pump;
Turn it back and forth with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, [or by hand]
after pulling the distributer cap - watch the rotor for play!
I'd bet it's the distributer shaft cam, or points,
While you can't get the distributer out, try twisting the rotor to see if your mechanical advance is working. Should twist about an inch, and spring back.
Over the years, I've seen them 'gum up' and stick, even on daily drivers!
Causes all kinds of 'gremlins'.
Easily taken apart and cleaned, if the bushings are good!