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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 07:23 AM
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Happy New Years guys!


Alright so I'm putting all new engine wiring harness in on my 67 442 and I have upgraded to mini starter. My question is on a stock starter it has two solenoid wires and the new mini on has one. Do I connect the two wires together a day connect it to the stater or use one of them or what.

Thanks guys
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 07:30 AM
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No, the 2 wires perform different functions, 1 is to activate the starter when you turn the key and the other is a bypass wire to provide a full 12v to the ignition coil during start if your still using points.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:19 AM
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Ok. I'm running a HEI setup. The new harness was made for the HEI so no more points. So are both wires hot when the key is on or does the second wire become hot after it goes through the solenoid?
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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I am working on the same thing right now. I upgraded the old points ignition to a MSD ready to run and using a powermaster mastertorque starter that only uses one of the small wires. Based on my research here on CO the purple wire is the one you want to hook up and the yellow is not used. That is how I hooked mine up but have not fired her up yet so hopefully I have it correct. If you search on here under "starter wiring" some informative posts come up.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Pewter442
Ok. I'm running a HEI setup. The new harness was made for the HEI so no more points. So are both wires hot when the key is on or does the second wire become hot after it goes through the solenoid?
Yes, that is how it works. You do not need the yellow wire with HEI.

Originally Posted by DLaz70OLDS98
I am working on the same thing right now. I upgraded the old points ignition to a MSD ready to run and using a powermaster mastertorque starter that only uses one of the small wires. Based on my research here on CO the purple wire is the one you want to hook up and the yellow is not used. That is how I hooked mine up but have not fired her up yet so hopefully I have it correct. If you search on here under "starter wiring" some informative posts come up.
You have it exactly right.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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Hey thanks. I will shink wrap the yellow wire and zip tie it to the battery cable just in case I want to go back to the stock starter. Btw I'm running that exact same starter haha
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:24 AM
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Man I love this site. You guys are awesome.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:25 AM
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You have it exactly right.[/QUOTE]
Thanks Randy, I appreciate the confirmation!
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Pewter442
Hey thanks. I will shink wrap the yellow wire and zip tie it to the battery cable just in case I want to go back to the stock starter. Btw I'm running that exact same starter haha
I did the same exact thing! I'd rather have and not need it than the reverse.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:34 AM
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You need to make sure you have power at the distributor in both the start and run ignition positions.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:04 AM
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Pewter,
How did you install the battery cable routing tube bracket? My headers are presenting an issue with fitting the tube in place. Not to mention I have to take the header out, again, to install the bolt for the bracket and dimple the header so it doesn't hit the bolt.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:09 AM
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You might consider mounting the tube on the back of the engine and snake your cable and wire from the rear to the starter in between the engine and firewall..
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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I did not. We are running really expensive ceramic headers hahahaha good thing this isn't my car or my money. I'm building this car for my father in law. The way I have it routed it's pretty far away from the header.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
You might consider mounting the tube on the back of the engine and snake your cable and wire from the rear to the starter in between the engine and firewall..

Yes I am going to look at this as well.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Pewter442
I did not. We are running really expensive ceramic headers hahahaha good thing this isn't my car or my money. I'm building this car for my father in law. The way I have it routed it's pretty far away from the header.


Yeah hind sight tells me I should have spent the coin for the American Racing Headers, Dohhhh!
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
You need to make sure you have power at the distributor in both the start and run ignition positions.
Distributor [coil] power has nothing to do with the STARTER wiring. The only connection between the two was the now dormant yellow wire which only was used during cranking. With the yellow wire disconnected at the starter, there is zero connection or interaction between ignition and starter systems. Totally separate entities.

BTW, you can if the ring terminal fits just put the yellow wire on the same starter terminal as the violet wire. It won't do anything - assuming the top end is disconnected- but you then have a handy troubleshooting or theft system wire up top that provides 12V whenever the starter circuit is called for. You can then for example use this to activate a drop relay that kills the engine when taken out of park, unless you know the secret. So, even if "hotwired" the car can't be driven away easily.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Octania
BTW, you can if the ring terminal fits just put the yellow wire on the same starter terminal as the violet wire. It won't do anything - assuming the top end is disconnected- but you then have a handy troubleshooting or theft system wire up top that provides 12V whenever the starter circuit is called for. You can then for example use this to activate a drop relay that kills the engine when taken out of park, unless you know the secret. So, even if "hotwired" the car can't be driven away easily.
Very clever idea...... I like it!
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 11:07 AM
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Thank you
I did a car this way once
owner wanted a system that you CANNOT "forget to arm" and even if a thief tries, if they activate the starter at all, they activate the anti theft system for you. Then they draw attention with starts and restarts but cannot drive. Only an authorized driver knows the deactivation trick. And that requires a special tool.
Old Jan 3, 2015 | 06:06 AM
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So it worked great. I should date taken a picture of it but I forgot. I covered the yellow wire with shrink wrap and zip tied it to the positive cable then I took a small stainless steel bolt and lock nut and bolted the wire from the new starter and the purple. I then cut the bolt so it was just past the nut and covered the connection with shrink wrap about 1 inch on either end. It looked good and will work great.
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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Here is proof that I got the wiring correct haha

442 First Start With Motor In: http://youtu.be/Je8A8aFTY6A
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:00 AM
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Here is proof that I got the

442 First Start With Motor In: http://youtu.be/Je8A8aFTY6A
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:11 AM
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Awesome.....

That thing sounds awesome! You ate really doing a really nice job on that project.
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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Yeah it does. Thanks man not to bad for my first full restore by myself at 28 years old haha
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Pewter442
Yeah it does. Thanks man not to bad for my first full restore by myself at 28 years old haha
Sounds great! On the Youtube page, it says the motor was on a dyno. What did it pull?
Old Jan 6, 2015 | 11:46 AM
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329 hp 425 torque
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