Have a question regarding getting enough oil to my top end with these rocker arms. I'm not sure if it's my specific combo but I checked my pushrod length seems to be correct. The adjustment screw on the top of the rocker arm only goes in this far when adjusted correctly I'm not sure the oil is getting to the oiling hole in the rocker arm as it needs to be. Car seems to run good but I do have that sewing machine sound around 1500 to 1700 RPM. I'm really not sure what it is about my setup that makes the adjustment screw only go in as far. Engine is an e-block with 921 lifters and speedmaster aluminum heads.

 

the oil will travel up the pushrod and exit that hole in the pushrod to the valvetrain

 

Looks like you’re at the end of the adjusting nut travel. It needs to be in the middle of the travel for best oiling. Just an fyi.

 

The slot with the oil hole in the adjustment screw is in the rocker arm .I'm just not sure if it's enough. Oil still comes out of the top of the rocker somewhat but I didn't know if it was enough. Pushrods are 9.7 long and seem to be the correct length given the marks on the valve tips. Everything is adjusted to 0 lash plus 3/4 turn.

 

The geometry in this rocker doesn’t change with pushrod length. You need shorter pushrods to bring the locknut down.

 

If I use shorter pushrods won't it move the rocker to far up the valve tips? Also how much shorter would you recommend I go. I originally checked with adjustable pushrod and 9.7 left the following marks on the picture posted.

 

No, the shaft mount dictates geometry on these.
I’d go at least .050, maybe even .100. Try one and see if the adj nut ends up more in the center of its travel.

 

Copy that. Thanks for the input sir.

 

absolutely not. no way should the adjuster be halfway down it’s travel. it should be 1 to 1.5 turns down from full up. …2 turns down is the max on this style of adjuster.

your fyi is bs

 

don’t believe it

 

The last set I used had the best oil hole alignment with the adjuster about in the middle.
It’s a simple observation to check one way or another.

 

Man those look like a nice set up. 7/16 correct? Do they make those in 1.7 ratio? I have a set of 5 heads in my 403, if I ever go through it again these look like a nice upgrade. I currently have Harland Sharps with guide plates.

Pattern looks nice on the valve tip! Great info. You could put a piece of cardboard on the bottom lip to catch oil have someone crank it up and watch oil out the top.

I have .040 restrictors in my push rods for my 403 per Marks recommendation a while back and amazing how much oil still reaches the top when priming things up.

good luck. Let us know how it works out. Thanks.

 

then you screwed something up. I posted the correct way to adjust rockers with the adjuster at the pushrod cup. All manufacturers are 1 to 1.5 turns of down from full up including lash or lifter preload, Speedmaster says the same.

the way you say to do it could expose the feed channel and block oil to the rocker. not only that, when the adjuster is that far down, it means the P. Rod is to short, that does affect lift over the nose of the lobe and creates a bad angle at the cup/rod tip

I can post as many manufacturers links to the correct way to set the adjuster as you need..speedmaster, T&D, Harland Sharp ..which these are a copy of and others.

to the original poster. do it the right way.

 

I just got off the phone with Mike@ Harland Sharp. It seems we're both right, or wrong on the HS's at least. Yes they RECOMMEND 1.5 turns or so from full out. BUT if you turn them in even as much as 3 or 4 turns, no harm done. Just so long as you have full engagement of the locknut they're fine. I'll bet SM is the same way.
In fact HS also makes another rocker with a slightly different adjuster that actually requires them being in more towards the bottom of the travel. Go figure.
As far as pushrod angularity goes, you know it's more critical on a shorter pushrod, like a small block. When you're using a pushrod that's already 9.500 or so like on a big block, another .050 or .100 won't effect it nearly as much.
Finally wideband, I stand on my previous statements regarding the same. Find one person that regrets purchasing and/or using one. Maybe then I'll change my hard sell approach. But I still don't call people idiots or say 'they don't want to learn" like you do, repeatedly.

Get help.

 

no again..Harland says 2 out max. same with everyone else. read what I said again about where length makes a difference…it’s near max lift, over the nose..that’s where the angle gets goofy, lift suffers when the adjuster cup is to far out.

if you’ve ever check with a dial indicator, you would know that. here, learn something. Harland specs , T&D and PRW which is speedmasters .

 

No, Harland says 2 or MORE, right from their tech guy.
Just because it’s not in print, doesn’t mean you can’t do it, or vice versa.

 

it is in print…look at the first pic I posted. that’s from them..2 max dufus…1 is best.

get help.😂😂😂😂. keep digging that hole. you’re a clown show

 

Should NOT exceed more than 2 turns out.

 

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤡

you’re dangerous

do you know how many turns is halfway? it’s a bunch.

 

Yep, 2 turns out of the bottom is more than mine ended up at. So maybe it wasn’t exactly halfway, but I’ll bet it was close. That adjuster has a lot of travel.
They also say no more than 340# open pressure on their 50026a rocker setup. Call them and ask what they’ll really take, by guys doing it everyday.
Again, I’ll defer to my way, calling and asking tech directly, you do yours, simple.

 

ah ok, so it’s not 2 or MORE like you said?

I’m not gonna say I told you so because that would embarrass you…but I will say you’re a clown.

like I said before, you’re dangerous when you give tech advice.

 

Not sure how calling people names and clown emojis and other emojis. Helps anyone here on CO! I am guilty of doing that when someone starts that sh+t with me. I know two wrongs do not make it right. But if you have all capital's in your name. And you are first to call people names and use clown emojis. You must of had a bad childhood! Did your daddy call you names? I bet he did many times a day! And god know what else. Most capital's user name on here are just like that. Chasing good RU away from this site. So Sad!

 

I dunno why that is still used. I haven't done a lot of engines, but it has been my experience that 0 lash plus 3/4 turn is too tight. Try 0 plus 1/4. Every time I have adjusted rockers with the engine running (Chevy style) it always sounds and runs best at 1/4 turn. Even the HS rockers on my Speed Master heads sound best that way. At 3/4 turns the engine always sounds like it is losing compression. Is it modern lifters being manufactured to tighter tolerances? Anybody?

 

I did the capitals just for you…because I know it makes you crazy.

I had a bad childhood…🤡 hey, why didn’t you get cutlesefi to build your motor?

 

The better question! Is why a did not get you to build my Engine!!!!!

 

So you’re sure that the instruction sheet provided with every part you buy is, without a doubt, the latest version? BS.
That’s why I call the tech departments, to make sure I have the latest, updated instructions available.
I’m done here.

 

your horse is dead, stop beating it.

 

I was once told a long time ago, some 80 years, that an empty drum makes the most noise.
Every thread here is childish. It makes it very hard for people who actually love Oldsmobile to gain different perspectives.

I sure wish a few people would realize that none of this arguing makes anyone look superior.
From a very old engineer. It makes you look foolish.

 

what a foolish thing to say. there is no such thing as a different perspective on this. You of all people should know that…being an engineer.

the bad advice given here could destroy someone’s engine.

I doubt you even understand what’s being talked about if you think that way.

 

All I am trying to say is I have spent a lifetime, 47 years actually, working as a powertrain staff engineer first for Studebaker, then Buick, then Oldsmobile.
While I don't want to add to the mix here. I am merely stating that negativity will discourage those who are ripe to learn.

As an old man, I don't have the fight I used to have. I also do not have the family and friends I should have because of that fight I used to possess.
I mean no harm. I just hate seeing others do what i once did.

I am sure everyone here is talented in their own right.

 

you obviously don’t know Mark..he’s the negativity king here. he just hates it when someone points out his awful advice. he could have just stopped ,, but he didn’t. he continued to challenge me …even when I provided the correct information,,he kept it up. then he plays victim

here’s some more negativity to chew on. this is why the manufacturers say don’t go beyond 2 turns and ideally 1 to 1 1/2 is correct. If you go halfway like Mark said, the oil feed channel in the adjuster will be out of it’s alignment with the oil feed supply hole
to the fulcrum bearing…it will be starved of oil .

this is a T&D rocker I have here. You can see the channel in the threads and the internal oil feed hole in the body by the toothpick. the bottom pic is the adjuster at 1 turn out. If you go way past 2 turns down, like halfway, the feed hole will be blocked by the threads.

 

thank you for the education. at my age it is appreciated.

 

you’re welcome.

 

Dale, call Mike at Harland Sharp. According to him we’re both right, on the HS stuff. I won’t speak for anything else.

 

Hi, If you have not tuned off by is thread. From all the bickering. Well I was hoping some other engine builders would chime in. I am NOT a engine builder, but have assemble a few. That still run great today.

It would be best to mark where the oil bolt sets now. Remove it, pull the oil adjustment bolt, see how the oil feed channel lines up. This way you know if you are in, out or just right of the oil groove. Then decide on a longer push rod is needed. Your product maybe different other manufactures. Take you time and mark it well and check. Please let me know how that worked out. Pictures would be great. Now my curiosity got a hold of me. Best of luck, John.

 

Ever work on an air cooled, Porsche/ VW engine? adjusting screw is a loose fit with a jam nut, no oil groove, plenty of oil gets to valve, spring and bronze guide, through the threaded adjuster by design, but oil goes to shaft first. Rocker arms are 58 Rc and shafts are case hardened, slightly less hardness, no rollers, works well for an oil/air cooled system that has operating head temps of 300-350 degrees!

 

I just wanted to let everybody know that I did indeed need a shorter push rod. The magic number for me was 9.6 in long. I adjusted all my valves and fired the car up with the valve covers off and I now have plenty of oil coming out of the rockers. I really do like these rockers they are an awesome setup and yes they are 7/16. I don't believe they make them in a 1.7 ratio, that would be pretty nice though. Thanks for all your help.

 

no Mark, I don’t need to call anyone to confirm anything. this isn’t complicated…three times now you’ve changed your mind and response, from “you have to be halfway down”, to “two or MORE” to then desperately trying to agree with me which you didn’t

my initial response is correct…and inline with all rocker manufacturers adjustments on this style adjuster because the cup shouldn’t be screwed way out of the lifter body for a reason..

not only will it mess up the feed hole alignment, it will screw up the over the nose ratio/lift because then cup is way lower than it’s suppose to be…that does change the rocker ratio when nearing max lift/over the nose

 

no.. all of these style adjusters need to be adjusted from full up..then 1.5 to 1.75 out…including lash or preload…never go beyond 2

that’s it.

then measure your p rod length at that setting. There is no bickering.

I’ve posted the adjustment procedure from three..I can post ten more if you want..it’s all the same

 

Mark needs to beg the mods to shut this down asap.

he got the other one shut down where he’s made a fool of himself.