These are chevy roller lifters with an olds 307 roller cam reground, Had to make bushings out of a 6 inch brass nipple....IMAG0019.jpg
REASON FOR BUSHINGS
IMAG0018.jpg

IMAG0017.jpg

IMAG0008.jpg

IMAG0007.jpg

IMAG0046.jpg

IMAG0022.jpg

IMAG0049.jpg

I think I have more pics, I will try and find...I have a pic of a 1966 toro 425 with 307 roller lifters in it I can post if anyone wants to c

 

If you're just trying to extend the same bore, good engineering, but if there's 2 different size bores, I'd think you'd be safer going the full lenght of the bore.

 

what are you trying to accomplish with the bushings? if it is just to keep the dogbones against the retainers it should work fine but i have to wonder about the lifter body & how far it protrudes out the top of the lifter bore when it's at the top of it's lift... you cannot count on those bushings to help maintain oil pressure if the height of the lifter isn't appropriate for the bore!

 

The bushings are to space the dog bones up but mainly to keep oil in. The lifters (only a few) do go up enough for the oil relief to peek above the lifter bore but I cut bushings in a lathe to fit the lifter with a step at the top to keep centered when lifter is down, I did this because my dad made this set up for his 403 with a stock 307 roller cam. It has worked for 10 years or more in his 403 and it was easier for a big block because retainer plate bolts right in place of the lifter valley oil shield.

 

Not sure I understand???

 

Let's say the total bore is 2" - the bushings you made are 1/2".
In race applications, you'd overbore the cast iron to install a one piece brass sleeve, to the bottom of the bore, and a step to make it longer, if necessary.

 

OOOOOH I C....Well only 4-5 lifters actually needed the bushing and was less than a 16th of an inch and that's probably a stretch, and for the cost of resleeving the bores I'm sure I could have bought retro lifters from summit or some place that u just drop in.....I like making stuff work and it only cost me $120 to have a olds roller cam reground to the specs I wanted and 2 6" brass nipples (i screwed some up 1) at $17 each, I had the cam, a whole pile of roller lifters oh I had to go find a dog bone retainer plate less than $10.


Built motor for a cross between good drivability and a street dragster, I have a beefed up 700r4 on the back stock rear end with auburn gear diff so not gonna be twisting this thing more than 5000 though machine shop said 6000 would be no problem, if I were racing then I would have spared no expense but just wanna scare the crap outta someone every now and again

 

The step I put in the bushing is in the inside at top because the top of lifter is smaller than middle, step hugs top and keeps centered so when lifter comes up the bushing is always in the same place and lifter does not catch edge of bushing

 

I say nice work and way to think outside the box.

 

Are those bushing oil holes slotted to keep oil into the lifter during all travel? Or is the oiling band just that huge?

 

Thanks...Can't take the credit it was my dads idea but i did make the stuff. now if i can get the stupid spray gun and paint to work right or the sprayer....


In the first and third pic (third pic is of opposing side from peak in oil band) u can c there is a peak in the oil band on the lifter, that is what comes above the top of bore, there is still plenty of the top lift bearing surface in the lifter bore with out the bushing, bushing is just to keep that little peak from shooting little jets of oil from about 5 of the lifters

 

If anyone is curious the motor runs f-ing awesome!!!! 20lb oil pressure at idle, average 40 on highway about 2500 rpm or a little above, 1/4 throttle snap breaks loose the tires and slides sideways FREAKIN MONSTER it is!!!!