Rebuilt Engine First 300 miles Oil
#1
Rebuilt Engine First 300 miles Oil
I got the engine going in about August did the proper break in 20 mins at 2,500 rpm with Comp Cams break in oil. Drained the oil after that and ran Comp Cams Muscle Car oil. Since then I have put about 300 miles on the car and it runs good, just the other day I dumped the oil and was preparing to put the car in the garage for the winter when I pulled the magnetic plug and saw a bit of metal on it. So then I thought I should cut the filter open to take a look at it too. There appears to be some brass/copper glitter in the bottom of the filter. I don't see any large chunks but my experience is minimal, what do you think?
#2
That is a lot of iron in there ,not good. Looks to me that the engine wasn't properly flushed to begin with. I probably would pull the pan and have a look see at the bearings to check what might have gotten in to them before it was stopped at the magnet and filter. What you see isn't bearing material on that magnet because it won' stick to a magnet but could have done bad things before it stuck there..... Just my thoughts...Tedd
#3
Did you wipe the debris from the magnet on a towel/rag to check the consistency? Some debris (grease like) is to be expected during an engine break in period, magnet will only grab ferrous metal. Copper/brass color debris could be thrust bearing or wrist pin bushing material. You would need an oil analysis to show any other corresponding metal contamination (lead, tin) that would support any bearing breakdown. Going forward, attach a filtermag to your filter, try some PYB and add some zddp additive and do a couple of short intervals on oil and check for debris. If it tapers back, that's good, if it doesn't or increases, you will need to go a little more in depth. Good luck on this one.
#4
I just wiped off the drain plug and yes I would refer to it as a grease consistency, I could not see any visible metal chunks.
For the build I did use arp fastners, I read somewhere that the arp fastner lube has some bronze in it, but not sure if this is true as when I looked at it I could not visibly see any... And my dist gear is not bronze. Should I cut the filter apart further to try to see what is all in it by cleaning in varsol or should I put on a new filter and new oil and run it at idle for some time then cut the filter open again to see?
For the build I did use arp fastners, I read somewhere that the arp fastner lube has some bronze in it, but not sure if this is true as when I looked at it I could not visibly see any... And my dist gear is not bronze. Should I cut the filter apart further to try to see what is all in it by cleaning in varsol or should I put on a new filter and new oil and run it at idle for some time then cut the filter open again to see?
Last edited by bainer1290; November 12th, 2014 at 10:13 AM.
#6
Thanks Mark.
An update for the rest of you, I have put some fresh oil and a filter in it, too bad its cold and snowy might have to wait a while before I can cruise again. After a few more miles I will re-check the filter fingers crossed it looks a little better.
An update for the rest of you, I have put some fresh oil and a filter in it, too bad its cold and snowy might have to wait a while before I can cruise again. After a few more miles I will re-check the filter fingers crossed it looks a little better.
#7
olds cranks should have least .003-.004 clearance .if ur reveing over 3rpm even though they come from factory with .002 clearance that's why so many bbo,s bottoms wear out. I learned that from a book I reading about blueprinting ur olds motor that's bearing materal ur looking at from not having enough side clearance.
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