Pennzoil 10W40

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Old November 11th, 2016, 09:46 AM
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Pennzoil 10W40

I would like to get peoples opinion on the quality of Pennzoil 10w40 conventional oil for use in my 69 442 with just under 60,000 miles. I addition to the oil change I intend to add ZDDP and a WIX 51049 filter at the oil change.
How much ZDDP should I add?
I am trying to get away from using synthetic oil due to oil leaks discovered after using synthetic
Thanks
Jerry
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Old November 11th, 2016, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by My2nd 69 442
I would like to get peoples opinion on the quality of Pennzoil 10w40 conventional oil for use in my 69 442 with just under 60,000 miles. I addition to the oil change I intend to add ZDDP and a WIX 51049 filter at the oil change.
How much ZDDP should I add?
I am trying to get away from using synthetic oil due to oil leaks discovered after using synthetic
Thanks
Jerry
All brand name oils are of comparable quality. I wouldn't hesitate to use Penzoil. I use Castrol GTX out of habit, but it's no better or worse than any other. I don't use any zinc additives in my older engines once the cam is broken in. Haven't had a problem yet.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 10:01 AM
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Agree with Joe. Any "major branded" oil with the "API donut" is okay to use. No additional additives are necessary.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 11:07 AM
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+2 . Pennzoil is very good oil indeed.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 11:52 AM
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Thanks Joe and farmer.
I appreciate both your input.
I have seen numerous post here and on the other site that I visit that have advised to use zddp when using a flat tappet cam. May I please ask why you guys don't see a need to use it.
I'm planning a 4000 mile trip this coming spring and want to give my 442 the best chance of making it with no problems.
Thanks again
Jerry
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Old November 11th, 2016, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by My2nd 69 442
Thanks Joe and farmer.
I appreciate both your input.
I have seen numerous post here and on the other site that I visit that have advised to use zddp when using a flat tappet cam. May I please ask why you guys don't see a need to use it.
I'm planning a 4000 mile trip this coming spring and want to give my 442 the best chance of making it with no problems.
Thanks again
Jerry
As I mentioned in another post, in order to obtain the API approval (donut), the oil must pass a series of engine tests. The tests are more severe than any street engine will experience. These tests are developed to qualify the oil for not only today's engines but also older engines. In other words to assure "backwards" compatibility. There are many different opinions on the use of ZDDP. New lubricants are light years better than oils from the 60s and 70s. I worked in the lubricant industry for over 20 years (not blowing my horn) but I never saw any issues with today's lubricants in older engines. Be your own judge but my recommendation stands - use a major branded oil with the API donut and correct viscosity grade. As for synthetic, I don't see a need unless you have high operating temperatures or cold ambient temperatures. There is potentially a fuel economy benefit by using synthetic but may not be worth the extra cost of the oil. I am talking about "street" engines and not race engines.
Ken
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Old November 11th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by farmer52
As I mentioned in another post, in order to obtain the API approval (donut), the oil must pass a series of engine tests. The tests are more severe than any street engine will experience. These tests are developed to qualify the oil for not only today's engines but also older engines. In other words to assure "backwards" compatibility. There are many different opinions on the use of ZDDP. New lubricants are light years better than oils from the 60s and 70s. I worked in the lubricant industry for over 20 years (not blowing my horn) but I never saw any issues with today's lubricants in older engines. Be your own judge but my recommendation stands - use a major branded oil with the API donut and correct viscosity grade. As for synthetic, I don't see a need unless you have high operating temperatures or cold ambient temperatures. There is potentially a fuel economy benefit by using synthetic but may not be worth the extra cost of the oil. I am talking about "street" engines and not race engines.
Ken
X2 on all of this (except I did not work in the lubricant industry... ). The most critical time and loads on a cam and lifters is at break-in, which is why I use the additive then. Once broken in, I have not seen the need. As noted, this is on street engines with stock-ish spring pressures and reasonable cam lobe ramps. If you have very stiff valve springs, or plan to run high RPMs or a very radical cam with steep lobes, then my answer might be different. It's all about the contact pressures of the lifters on the cam lobes.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 04:36 PM
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I used to think that way until I wiped out a cam. Now I'm very cognizant of the oils I use. I recommend getting educated on oil differences. Not trying to bash farmer52, he probably has a lot of experience in the industry and as Joe said for a stockish engine it may work just fine.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 04:49 PM
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Is there any down side to adding zddp? The minor added expense doesn't bother me.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by My2nd 69 442
Is there any down side to adding zddp? The minor added expense doesn't bother me.
Not at all. If it helps you sleep, go for it.
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Old November 11th, 2016, 05:58 PM
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zzzzzzzzz. Thanks guys
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Old November 11th, 2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by My2nd 69 442
Is there any down side to adding zddp? The minor added expense doesn't bother me.
Your dime...go for it. Why don't you just buy a fully formulated racing oil?
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Old November 12th, 2016, 04:41 PM
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You can get all sorts of opinions on this subject. I usually add a bit of the Zn compound. Finding out what's already in the oil is the hard part. My "guess" is to try to keep it around 1200-1400 ppm. If I were not adding any of the Zn and had to choose between the readily available oils, I'd probably go with either the Rotella or the Valvoline VR1. The dedicated oils are probably better if you don't want to add the Zn, but they are a bit harder to find and usually more costly. In your summer you could probably use the 20W-50 especially at higher speeds. The long Wix filter seems like a good choice for all around general use. They put a nominal micron rating of 21 on it.
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Old November 12th, 2016, 05:38 PM
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Using a Diesel engine oil is a good option. But the ZDDP level is dropping in DEO because of "poisoning" exhaust emissions aftertreatment devices.
If you want to know what is in the oil, send a new oil sample to an oil testing lab. For a few dollars, they can give you the oil "finger print".

Last edited by farmer52; November 12th, 2016 at 05:43 PM.
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Old November 12th, 2016, 08:26 PM
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I do believe that my command level decision in this major oil change discussion will be to add about 2 oz. of ZDDP to Pennzoil 10w40 and I shall sleep well and my wallet will be ok for another day.
Thanks to all for your input
Jerry
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