I think I know the answer to this, but here goes...

Can the RH cylinder head be removed on a 455 in a A body with A/C? I have a external coolant leak on the lower edge of the deck surface. Drips about a drop an hour, but when you start the car the rate goes up. I have spent a ridiculous amount of money at Harbor Freight trying to find a way of getting to and tightening the bottom two head bolts towards the back of the car - so far nothing works.

I tightened the lower center bolt to about 90 lbs to see if anything would change because it looks to me like the bottom shoulder of the nut on the stud isn't directly digging into the cylinder head. Is it possible the stud may be too long and putting any clamping force there? There was wetness all along the lower meeting line of the cylinder to head from about the center of the head to the back where it dripped down.

Yes, I should have dynoed it - especially since I'm using the OE steel shim head gaskets.

 

I never had that problem, but if you think that is the issue you could put either a thick or a couple thin Grade 8 hardened washers to take up some of the distance.

 

I hear bolts
then I hear studs
the two are entirely different animals

if you have studs, you would have to extract the studs or pull the engine I believe.

IF the nut is not contacting the head that would be an issue.

what sealer was used on these shim gaskets?

 

Yes, it can be removed, but you have to swing the compressor out of the way. If the nut tightened down to the end of the threads, I can see that.

 

Rut ro shaggy
Sorry no help

 

Sorry - the bolt/stud I was referring to was the OE center lower head bolt on the RH side - the one with the built in stud for the heat stove.

Sealer on the shim head gasket used was Permatex High Tack Spray A Gasket - P/N 80064.

 

Thanks - I'll figure it out.

 

Always a first. I narrowed it down tonight - it is definitely seeping on the lower edge directly below the rearmost expansion plug - the absolute hardest area to get to on a A body 455 A/C car. Pulled the exhaust manifold off and no signs of internal leakage.

 

Id pump up the cooling system to 15-20 psi and look real carefully around before tearing into what could be a perfect engine. Does it hold prob not but it will reveal the true leak source. Coolant can wick around and be very deceiving.

 

Sigh.

Pulled valve cover off. Tightened some of the other surronding head bolts to 90 - still a seep going on. Got a lighted mirror to confirm what I was feeling and the back of the intake where it bolts to the head is bone dry from top to bottom. Went and bought a cooling system pressure tester - pumped it up to 8 lbs and it became a steady drip.

Bought even more specialized breaker bars to try to reach those head bolts. Going to try one more time to tighten them some more, but it is not looking good. Thought about putting some Perm O Seal or something in but I think the leak is bigger that what it can seal even though it did not drip all last night when not under pressure.If I have to take the engine out, I think going to the Nationals is not feasible with this car.

Any other ideas would be welcome.

 

last ditch, try the sealer in a can.
Worst case, you are back to where you started.

HFT may not be the best place to get beasty tools for a job like this

I have a couple of these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Craft...item51d375f058

and they are indispensible. That plus various length extensions and you can get almost anywhere. Long arm makes head bolts, lug nuts, other higher-torque fasteners easier.

 

Drain the antifreeze and just put water in and bring that bitch up. You have too much time invested to let a little water leak kick you to the curb. Tear it apart after you get home. Disappointing yes but don't let it beat you.

 

Have you tried Bar's Leak? http://barsleaks.com/product/head-gasket-fix/

 

x2!!!

 

I would not put any band aides on it, as the others said load it on the trailer and have a good time. Tear it down when you get back.

 

Update - I think the leak is getting better eveytime I am able to get a head bolt a little tighter. I have only managed to turn the bolts maybe a quarter turn. In the morning, going to drain the coolant, fill with distilled water and put in a bottle of Bar's Leak and see what happens. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

Loosen the radiator cap when you have it parked at the show to relieve the pressure in the cooling system as well, so it will quit dripping. You'll be good for the show... I know guys that have raced with worse just to finish out a weekend (with improvised means to keep water off the track).

 

Last update - between another round of painful, incremental head bolt tightening (I don't want to know what the torque is up to) and a bottle of Bar's Leak, it stopped leaking. As so eloquently stated by the Hairy One, the "bitch" is coming up to Wisconsin. Thanks to all for the support and suggestions.

Joe

 

Eloquent is what I do ask anyone. Except the people that know me.

Random pic:

 

Joe,

Glad you got it to stop, and are going to make it to nationals.

I didn't go back to your thread to the engine section. So, this most likely is a silly question, but did you chase the threads in the block before the heads were put back on?

 

Absolutely. I chased everything that had a hole. And, while I was rebuilding this engine, I made sure all the threads were clean of dirt and rust :-)

 

That's why I thought it was a silly question. Your attention to detail is well documented.

Just curious as why your problem manifested itself, and what should I look for as I go through getting mine started.

 

might wanna try steel seal it worked for me it said use two of whatrver size i odered one by mistake my 98 tahoe is still running w/o complants my prob was a head gasket.Got mine off line

 

If you need to change the LAST SPARKPLUG OR RETORQUE THE BOTTOM BOLTS WITH A/C JUST PULL THE PASS SIDE MOTOR MOUNT BOLT AND WITH WOOD AND A JACK JUST JACK THE MOTOR UP BY THE PASS SIDE OF THE OIL PAN. IT WILL PIVOT THE ENGINE TO THE DRIVERS SIDE AND GIVE YOU THE CLEARANCE YOU NEED TO DO WHAT YOU NEED TO DO. THIS IS ALSO HELPFULL ON PULLING THE REAR PUSHRODS. Damn big hands and hit the caps lock!
Silver seal in the tube or any good sealant is a good idea on a fresh build to stop the *******!.