I have a 1 owner 1967 442. I'm owner #2. It has 70,100 miles.
In the midst of a total body off frame restoration in a shop in Kansas.
I will start by saying that the entire Turbo-Hydramatic 400 is being rebuilt .
Everything internally in the transmission is being replaced because of rusting and pitting . If there are any recommendations on parts suppliers or specific do's , and don't , please advise.
Now on to my engine ; Block: 390925E . R.F.head V203957C . Carb : 7027156K6 RH . Today I got an email saying " 3 broken rings , 2 damaged pistons , pitting on internal components , wear on rockers , lifters , and cam ". My question is this . I want the engine and transmission to be rebuilt as if this were brand new . ARE there manufacturers / vendors that I should absolutely specify ???? I'm open to all opinions on this . I will be having a full , and my first discussion with the engine builder tomorrow . The engine builder is Advance Engine and Machine in Salina KS. After the build there will be a break in , and dyno test . I look forward to any guidance that can be helpful.
On the good side , after 3 months of intense dip , blast , repair , primer ,
refit and wet sand , it goes into the paint booth this weekend...
I apologize , I still have not been provided ANY build pictures other than what I have shared on my photo album.
Cheers , Forum , thx , Jimi

 

I'm going to assume that you may want this car to be "numbers matching" .
The most practical way to deal with all the rusted components may be to get another used trans of the same model (or close to it), and take both to the trans shop you have chosen to re-build the trans.
Ask them to re-build your trans using as many internal components from the "parts trans" as necessary.
One way of finding a "core" trans is to advertise in the parts wanted section of this forum. E-bay, Hemmings Motor News , Old Cars Weekly, etc. are also good sources.
As far as what to specify for parts on the re-build, this my humble suggestion.
Network. through this form, and other places such as car clubs, try to find a local builder with a good reputation. Explain to him what you expect out of the job. Let HIM recommend what parts to use to do the best job.

 

For stock internals you can try these guys:

http://www.egge.com/kits?make=OLDSMOBILE

 

1. A 4-4-2 should have head number V203957G.

2. Are we to understand that your car is being completely rebuilt several thousand miles away from where you are?

- Eric

 

Which is very difficult to do with a 67, since there are no VIN derivative stamps that MATCH the VIN. The OP doesn't say if he has a P-O-P or not. "Numbers matching" does NOT simply mean that the casting numbers and date codes are correct. It means that the VIN derivative stamps (or the unit numbers on the P-O-P) MATCH the VIN.

 

Sorry gentleman , it is a " G " not " C " on the head.
Yes I do have the original Protect - O - Plate that matches the original sales invoice , to Mr. or Mrs. F. L Parks , Abeline KS , with delivery date and Selling Dealer code #. Great question Joe.
oldscutlass , thanks for the Egge heads up . Have , or has anyone used this source ? From their printed material they seem heads up on Oldsmobile.
I like the idea on a transmission parts core , will look into that.
And yes , the car is 1500 miles away from me .
So if any of our intrepid members are anywhere around Salina KS. I would gladly compensate them for a full disc of photo / image collection .
As a side note , I have a few tickets of service work done from Bradley Oldsmobile the original dealer in Tulsa OK , and Swenson Motor Co. in Pratt KS. This car has taken me well beyond where I wanted to be in depth of detail , but as a learning lesson , all of these details are exactly what a person finds when taking apart and restoring a 46 year old car that spent it's life this way . Lesson learned . Thx, JT

 

Egge is a well respected company that has been around for a very long time, and was for many years (and may still be) "the" go-to place for original restoration pistons, like for the person restoring a '28 Packard or a '52 ******.

I believe they have branched out to engine parts other than pistons and rings, and may have higher-performance parts available now, too, but they are definitely among the companies that should have original-type pistons for your 4-4-2.

- Eric

 

Seems like the shop is trying to fill the paper on diagnosis. Rings, pistons, wear on rockers lifters, cam is all normal. Your engine will need an overbore and rockers and lifters are generally not reused. Your new pistons should come with rings and pins. I have had good results with internal parts from EGGE. They can supply the flat top pistons and .921 lifters used in the E block. All you need to do is ask for a stock rebuild on your engine with stock style parts. You may want to ask for a neoprene 2 piece rear main seal instead of the rope seal that the factory used. You could also ask for improved valve stem seals rather than the stock umbrella style. You should also ask for a good timing chain set. The stock one had a cam timing gear that was a plastic type composite fused to metal teeth.

 

Thanks for all the input. Oldsmaniac , exactly as you said , clean up bore , rockers , lifters , hardened valves for 91 octane , improved valve stem seals , 2 pc. neoprene gasket , everything exactly as you recommended.
Line boring and decking the heads to the block . The only thing I have added is balancing the entire rotating assembly ( 250.00 ) because it seems reasonable . I get the estimate on the whole process next week . But really , I just told him to go ahead with it.
And then I will have it bench broken in and have the engine dyno tested.
I'm really finding out just how deep a build can go. Hopefully I will have some pictures ( yeah Right ? ) and dyno sheet to post within the next 2 weeks . The car goes into the paint booth this weekend .
I can not thank you guys enough for all the brain power. JT

 

I also would suggest the mains be checked for alignment but if possible avoid line boring as it will move the crank slightly closer to the cam and will cause a tiny bit of slop in the new timing chain. Balancing is good. Decking the block is not so important for a stock build. Minor or cleanup mill is suggested on head surface and exhaust surface. You probably want to have the exhaust manifolds milled too for a good metal to metal seal. Make sure big ends of rods are checked and resized if needed.