At my last ends here
At my last ends here
So here's the deal - I had a local machine shop build my Vista Cruiser a .030 over 455. It ran for two weeks about three months ago, and due to a poor build (two sleeved cylinders, no linebore, cylinders weren't even fully cross hatched, the block shouldn't have been built on in the first place...) .
I have a great spare block around that can be built on, but was also .030 so it will now need to be AT LEAST .040 and all other trustworthy machine shops seem to be bailing on wanting to build it.
I'm truly at my last ends and I'm simply looking for either a crate 455, or a running 455 Olds (or Buick) in my area. I'm in the SF Bay Area/Santa Clara Valley whatever you want to call it. Feeling hopeless about this Olds ever running again as it's been down collectively around 8 or 9 months.
Let me know what you guys suggest, I figured this was the best place to go for advice on this shitty situation!
I have a great spare block around that can be built on, but was also .030 so it will now need to be AT LEAST .040 and all other trustworthy machine shops seem to be bailing on wanting to build it.
I'm truly at my last ends and I'm simply looking for either a crate 455, or a running 455 Olds (or Buick) in my area. I'm in the SF Bay Area/Santa Clara Valley whatever you want to call it. Feeling hopeless about this Olds ever running again as it's been down collectively around 8 or 9 months.
Let me know what you guys suggest, I figured this was the best place to go for advice on this shitty situation!
The 455 that ran for two weeks and failed spun every bearing down there. Contrary to popular assumption I DID NOT rev the engine too high, it drove about 200 babied miles and didn't even reach half throttle
It was a clearance and assembly problem. The sleeves and cylinders didn't cause the failure. Not sure why nobody wants to rebuild it with another block. I recently did a .040 455. If they don't think it will clean up at .040 then go to .060. You will also need a crank and likely some rods. Do you have spares with your spare block?
Thank you for your prompt replies.
I do have usable rods from my spare, I would need to buy new pistons/rings due to the necessary overbore and obviously main/rod/cam bearings. I know what the problem was, haha, I'm mostly just asking if anybody knows a good place to find a running Olds motor locally or crate for a good price.
I do have usable rods from my spare, I would need to buy new pistons/rings due to the necessary overbore and obviously main/rod/cam bearings. I know what the problem was, haha, I'm mostly just asking if anybody knows a good place to find a running Olds motor locally or crate for a good price.
You can advertise here for an engine or check local Craigslist. Trouble is you will be taking seller's word and may end up with another bad engine. On older stuff I would prefer the build from scratch so it would be known whats there.
So far local craigslist doesn't have too much, I might check slightly out of my area next. That's why I figured here would be a better place, plus I'm a sure a lot of you other Olds enthusiasts on here are like myself - plenty of Olds parts willing to part with but not listed for sale anywhere
There are no issues with running 40 over. The 455 in my 57 is a 455 40 over with keith Black pistons. 8000 hard run miles and no issues. I used a well know Olds engine builder from our local scene.
So, is the shop that built it not standing behind it? I'm nearing the point of making a decision to dyno my motor before installing in my Vista. I know, being a mild built 355, why spend the $ on a dyno session, but, at least we can do final tune, settle on possible TC and break in. If it gives up the ghost, at least it isn't in the car....
The shop that built the engine definitely isn't standing behind it... I threw a couple grand down the toilet because technically the build was done "as a favor" (the builder is one of my closest friend's father). I definitely suggest getting a dyno break-in done... I plan to do it with this next 455 I have to built.
So you're saying the builder won't stand behind something he charged good money for and you only got 3 months service from?? What was the wording on the work order as far as warranty? I know it's your buddy's father but that shouldn't have anything to do with this. If he advised you NOT to build that block and you went ahead anyway, it might be a different story.
Was this an engine you took him, or he provided for the build? If it was his block and it has all the indications of flawed workmanship you say it does, I would see him in court. $$$ doesn't just grow on trees these days.
Was this an engine you took him, or he provided for the build? If it was his block and it has all the indications of flawed workmanship you say it does, I would see him in court. $$$ doesn't just grow on trees these days.
It was a block he had provided and won't stand behind his work or admit any fault. Because he did it "as a favor" there was no work order or paperwork which was my mistake.
This is all another story, though. My primary point of this post was to see if anybody knew of Olds crate motors, or good places to search for running ones.
This is all another story, though. My primary point of this post was to see if anybody knew of Olds crate motors, or good places to search for running ones.
The shop that built the engine definitely isn't standing behind it... I threw a couple grand down the toilet because technically the build was done "as a favor" (the builder is one of my closest friend's father). I definitely suggest getting a dyno break-in done... I plan to do it with this next 455 I have to built.
Well, beside the 30 cube advantage, what about building a 425? That's what I plan on using in my '65 Vista....even a very basic rebuild will give plenty of power....just try to find one from a Toro....39 deg CBA may be easier to do! A Toro was a heavy car and could easily move your Vista!
I wouldn't have a problem with a 425, unfortunately the Toros at my local classic GM junkyard all the Toros are completely gutted! I'm interested in either a 425, 455, or even a Buick 455 (even though I'm sure it sounds like an appalling cross-contamination)
Let's back up. First, if you have spun rod bearings, why do you think you need a new block. Sounds more like the machine shop did not properly size the rods or set clearances in the bearings. Second, if you do need a block for some reason, find a machine shop that has built an engine that's more than 20 years old. The 455 is not a modern thinwall casting that can't take an overbore. These blocks can be bored to 0.060 over with no problems whatsoever.
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