Logical explanation or wishful thinking?
Phantom Phixer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5,534
From: Apopka, FL
Well, it seems my woes still exist. I was in stop and go traffic at a light for about 10 minutes today and my temp climbed to around 210-220. I checked the fan clutch when I got home while the engine was still hot, and it spun maybe 3-4 times. I let it cool off and checked it again..maybe 1/6 of a turn. I'm going to check my coolant level in the radiator and rhe reservoir, but in the meantime, from what I've described, does it sound like a bad fan clutch?
UPDATE: . Coolant level in the radiator and the reservoir are good. Radiator is about 2" below the neck and the reservoir is about 1" above the "add" mark.
UPDATE: . Coolant level in the radiator and the reservoir are good. Radiator is about 2" below the neck and the reservoir is about 1" above the "add" mark.
A cooling system with 50/50 antifreeze and a 15 pound radiator cap will not boil until it reaches 268 degrees.
At 220 you are still 48 degrees below the boiling point.
Thread Starter
1972 U code Supreme
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 4,114
From: Chesapeake, VA
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 12,846
From: Evansville, IN
Ok, I can help.
Short version: Your fan clutch is shot.
Long version: Problems with heat going down the road are coolant related, ie, gunked radiator, failed thermostat, etc. Problems at low speed and idle means you have no airflow through the radiator. Coolant problems are minimized at this point due to low engine heat generation (it's idling.)
There are four kinds of fan clutch behaviors.
1. Engine colder than clutch engagement. Fan spins half a turn with the engine off and a good whirl placed upon it.
2. Engine hotter than clutch engagement. Fan spins maybe a blade's width with engine off and a good whirl placed upon it.
3. Fan failed, clutch open, the fan will spin many revolutions when spun by hand. Manifested by overheating at idle. (This is you.)
4. Fan failed, clutch locked up. The fan will not turn by hand at all when engine off. You basically have a rigid fan and the car will run, it will just make a lot of noise, all the time, and get a little worse economy.
I prefer giving it whirl when cold and off, then come home and whirl it hot and off. This shows both modes. There apparently is a method for Manly Men to grab the fan, and a failed clutch will allow it to be stopped by hand while the engine is running. I do not recommend this for anyone.
Short version: Your fan clutch is shot.
Long version: Problems with heat going down the road are coolant related, ie, gunked radiator, failed thermostat, etc. Problems at low speed and idle means you have no airflow through the radiator. Coolant problems are minimized at this point due to low engine heat generation (it's idling.)
There are four kinds of fan clutch behaviors.
1. Engine colder than clutch engagement. Fan spins half a turn with the engine off and a good whirl placed upon it.
2. Engine hotter than clutch engagement. Fan spins maybe a blade's width with engine off and a good whirl placed upon it.
3. Fan failed, clutch open, the fan will spin many revolutions when spun by hand. Manifested by overheating at idle. (This is you.)
4. Fan failed, clutch locked up. The fan will not turn by hand at all when engine off. You basically have a rigid fan and the car will run, it will just make a lot of noise, all the time, and get a little worse economy.
I prefer giving it whirl when cold and off, then come home and whirl it hot and off. This shows both modes. There apparently is a method for Manly Men to grab the fan, and a failed clutch will allow it to be stopped by hand while the engine is running. I do not recommend this for anyone.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 16,730
Not really. Don't do that.
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