KH Power Steering Pulley
#1
KH Power Steering Pulley
I have a KH power steering pulley and it’s solid as shown in the picture, but I have also seen the KH pulley with three holes in it. What application used which? Or is it a year difference? The pic below is from a 1970 442 I think.
#3
#5
Its a 70 442 with PS and A/C. I can’t measure the pulley diameter cause it’s packed up and sent to be rebuilt. The CSM says KH is the right one but I’ve seen KH with holes and without and just curious.
Last edited by Ap6954; September 3rd, 2019 at 04:35 AM.
#6
#8
That would be great if you can look at a few others. I would hate to pay to rebuild this pump if it’s the wrong pump or pulley for the documented 70 442 W30 i am piecing back together.
#10
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Patton, do you know if this is the same pulley that is used on the 72 Cutlass? The Assembly Manual shows the 72 HD system as having a KH pulley, but most of those that I've seen have 3 holes in the front to line up a socket for tightening the tensioner bolt. Does the solid face pulley have enough clearance on the back to properly it on a 72 style PS pump and tighten the tensioner bolt with a wrench?
#11
#14
Be careful when removing the pulley. It may be more of a potential problem on a SINGLE ROW PULLEY due to those having less metal/thickness. I would avoid using a puller type tool. I've removed pulleys in the past, myself, by removing the locknut and putting a junk nut on the center shaft and then tapping on the nut/shaft with a hammer while holding the PULLEY - with the pulley in a horizontal position ABOVE the ground (ie - not on a bench, etc but holding the assembly in the air - over a padded box, etc). The weight of the pump will help with this technique.
I've seen some single row pulleys that were bent/warped b/c someone used a puller type tool. May be less prone to happen on a double row but there's no need to play guinea pig with yours if this technique will work.
Have a buddy hold the edges of the pulley (above the ground) while you tap on the junk nut/center hub.... a lot less akward with an extra set of hands.
I've seen some single row pulleys that were bent/warped b/c someone used a puller type tool. May be less prone to happen on a double row but there's no need to play guinea pig with yours if this technique will work.
Have a buddy hold the edges of the pulley (above the ground) while you tap on the junk nut/center hub.... a lot less akward with an extra set of hands.
#15
Thats good advice. I went ahead and sent the pump assembly with the pulley still on it to get rebuilt with the steering gearbox.
Be careful when removing the pulley. It may be more of a potential problem on a SINGLE ROW PULLEY due to those having less metal/thickness. I would avoid using a puller type tool. I've removed pulleys in the past, myself, by removing the locknut and putting a junk nut on the center shaft and then tapping on the nut/shaft with a hammer while holding the PULLEY - with the pulley in a horizontal position ABOVE the ground (ie - not on a bench, etc but holding the assembly in the air - over a padded box, etc). The weight of the pump will help with this technique.
I've seen some single row pulleys that were bent/warped b/c someone used a puller type tool. May be less prone to happen on a double row but there's no need to play guinea pig with yours if this technique will work.
Have a buddy hold the edges of the pulley (above the ground) while you tap on the junk nut/center hub.... a lot less akward with an extra set of hands.
I've seen some single row pulleys that were bent/warped b/c someone used a puller type tool. May be less prone to happen on a double row but there's no need to play guinea pig with yours if this technique will work.
Have a buddy hold the edges of the pulley (above the ground) while you tap on the junk nut/center hub.... a lot less akward with an extra set of hands.
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