The_Jeremiah

I wanted to post this, I searched around and didnt find much, and all I could tell from the "Tech" section is that this is a "mystery crankshaft", couldnt tell if it was good or bad. But In another thread I was told it would be a forged crank, in my opinion forged anything is good.

To make a long story short, I swapped a 4.3l into a jeep for a friend, in exchange I was given a 455, which I didnt know I was gonna be given, and I got use of the shop to work on the Omega, which turned into a GIANT maw project

Here's the crank in question, casting number is 400943, came in the block I was given, from what I have read, this is somewhat hard to find, and better than a nodular crank?

IMG953321.jpg


Heres my engine, and the engine I was given next to it

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z11375ss

You lucky dog!

MDchanic

Does it have the "checkmark" cutout in the output flange?

How 'bout a pic of the whole crank?

What's the stamped VIN-derivative number on the block?

- Eric

GAOldsman

Good score!

From 442.com

"Specifics:
400943 crank, numbers barely visible, on the rear weight. Notch in rear face is a 'rounded-L' shape, longer than say a 425's L, and the corner is smooth, not a nice right angle. Just like Mondello's tech manual shows, except he shows a sharp corner there. Forging flash removal left a very wide "part line" as per usual for a forging. The front throw has "AC" stamped in it."

GAOldsman

Also from 442.com
"400943 455 '68 Forged Steel. In fullsize, w/2bbl, w/tow package."

citcapp

Good trading stock to fund other things. They weigh more than a "N" crank and to me not worth it for the added rotating weight. I have sold a couple of these. The last one went for $250.00

chadman

They are stronger than a cast N crank but not as strong as an early 400/425 forged crank (different material). They usually go for around $600 for a good useable core that has been checked for cracks. I have one sitting under my workbench right now.

hurst68olds

If it's forged would that still be called a casting number?

507OLDS

That is a 68 forged crank.Good piece to sell to fund the project,or do whatever with.

The_Jeremiah

Ill take a pic of the whole crank. Ill get all the number off the block as well. goin out tonight to get sub frame out of car

The_Jeremiah

is the weight gain vs strength not really that great of a compromise? Brian what do you think since I was asking you about putting the 425 rods into the 455, should I used this crank with the rods, or the N crank, and sell this for funding the OMEGAAAAAAAAAAA

The_Jeremiah

Crank has been polished at least, maybe turned not sure

1030121906.jpg

mms95picture-3.jpg

"J" groove in rear of crank

1030121907.jpg

Heres block Vin number, looks like L2E4500D ?

1030121911.jpg

1030121915.jpg

1030121916.jpg

The_Jeremiah

What else can I tell you guys? I love bein back on here! ( havent been on much in the past couple years )

joe_padavano

Of course, a FORGED crank wouldn't have a CASTING number...

The_Jeremiah

Right I understand I messed up right there, just so its common knowledge, I usually get on here around 10:30 at night when I am super exhausted!

But your right! Definitely missed being such an active member

The_Jeremiah

Got some pics, whats that VIN-derivative number tell you?

507OLDS

All of the 68 455 forged cranks have the same number 400943,so it is a forged crank,no question.
The VIN block stamping is nothing from a production car.It could have possibly been from an industrial or agricultural application.They used 455's for irrigation pumps,as well as other things.Even a car with a warranty replacement would be stamped differently.It is also possibly that the crank is not original to the block.A lot can happen in 45 years.

The_Jeremiah

thats pretty cool to find out, always love learning something new, would have been cool to find out what the block came out.

one of the stories I saw on this website was someone was told to "come get this olds engine out of my barn its taking up space" Long story short the guy picks it up and it had F or D Heads on it! What luck! cant get enough of it!

Octania

Nice score

Great shot of the "J" notch and the crank in general

I see boltstuds on #4 main, like a Toronado, but Toro's generally also have a small oil deflector on the #1 main.

Got any exact application clues like carb #, distributor #, intake #, Water Pump#?

Tom442

Interesting crankshaft..the forged crank in a motor I pulled from a 68 Delta (2barrel, automatic) has a sharp notch in the crank flange. It still has the part number 400943 and the obvious wide parting lines...just that notch is different.
http://m296.photobucket.com/albumvie..._3118.jpg.html

Tom

68 442
70 F85

MDchanic

That's the "checkmark" notch.

I know the checkmark was used on the 425, but I'm not clear on when the checkmark vs the "J" was used on the 455 crank.

- Eric

allyolds68

And then someone called the cops and I don't think we ever heard the rest of the story

The_Jeremiah

Looks like your crank is a 425 crank to me. I dont see holes in the the middle of the rod journal area like the 455 crank has, you can barely see that in my pictures on this thread

The_Jeremiah

unfortinately no, all it was was a block, crank, and oil pan, however it is a toro oil pan. But im missing the windage tray, I posted the block vin number but 507olds says its probably some sort of tractor engine or something

Tom442

So would the 425 crank have the same casting number as the 455 crank?

64Rocket

The "J" cut out in the crank, may be due to early or late production. The two forged cranks I have came from '68 Delta 88's, 455 with the 2v carb. They both have the sharp check cut out.

Gene

joe_padavano

Sorry, but forging #400943 is a 455 crank. The short stroke 400/425 cranks used different numbers because they were different forgings.

The_Jeremiah

good point, I didnt think of that, the lightening holes in the rod journal area must not be drilled all the way through! haha

SBORule

Some people have all the luck.

That should make your 74 Omega run pretty good.

The_Jeremiah

I have a 455 with a nodular crank ill most likely use, and put this setup up for sale maybe. Im gonna take one down soon to get worked on

442rocketdave

Thats a good idea Jerimiah, a nodular crank can hold up to 700+hp and when cross drilled and teardropped and polished they are good cranks. I used to polish mine with crocus cloth and it would look like chrome. I used a few forged steel cranks in my day and never had a problem with either one. For street/strip the Nodular crank is great! Use the money from the crank to get your project going. I am going to sell some NOS parts to get my 69 in high gear. Good Luck.

The_Jeremiah

hey thanks! Definantly best of luck to you as well, wouldnt happen to have any NOS parts for an omega would you?

442rocketdave

Sorry just 69 ,70.71.72 parts, I hope to have a list soon and try to make some progress with my 69, I have had real bad luck with local machine shops to include my w31 engine and a 70 455 complete both stolen. The owner of the machine shop died and no one let me know and after a few weeks I went there and guess what no shop no motors, then a shop in a town 40 miles away ripped me off for over 500 dollars and did the worse job I have ever seen, I had to go to the police dept. to get my 69 400 and my 68 455 back. Nightmare!!!!

turbobill

Wonder is Olds continued the tradition with the '69 455 2 bbl tow package engine?

The_Jeremiah

dude that sucks! at least you got everything back