how to store a short block 455
#8
Grease washes right off and not 100% of it has to be removed.
Spray can of white grease works great
chain oil is stringy and stays on well also
Cosmolene [National Automotive Lines, maybe Amazon]
Tub o grease if you want the hands-on approach.
Seal it well in a large plastic bag with a few packs of desiccant inside.
WD is a poor choice for LONG term [more than a day or three] protection.
#10
Fwiw I have a 355 short block that's been in my basement for almost 3 years now and I just fogged it with pb blaster , I don't like wd40. Its all apart but if it was together then all you have to worry about is the bores because the assembly lub will take care of the bearing journals . My basemnt see's lots of moisture as the walls are bare and sometimes during the thawing season the walls will bleed . So it really is that simple. Not too much to prevent rust.
#11
In my experience wd40 actually works very well. If something was exposed to weather I agree it's not the best choice but stored inside and wrapped wd40 is easy and effective. After it sits for a while it forms a film and isn't just the very light oily substance you spray on. I use wd40 on the exposed portions of my tractor cylinders during winter storage, my bike engine, rims and exhaust, and liberally spray my sleds suspension and aluminum parts before storage. All that stuff is either in a shed or covered trailer and sees temp ranges from 0-75f so condensation can really be an issue. It really works great to prevent corrosion . It's not much as a lubricant or penetrant tho.
#12
In my experience wd40 actually works very well. If something was exposed to weather I agree it's not the best choice but stored inside and wrapped wd40 is easy and effective. After it sits for a while it forms a film and isn't just the very light oily substance you spray on. I use wd40 on the exposed portions of my tractor cylinders during winter storage, my bike engine, rims and exhaust, and liberally spray my sleds suspension and aluminum parts before storage. All that stuff is either in a shed or covered trailer and sees temp ranges from 0-75f so condensation can really be an issue. It really works great to prevent corrosion . It's not much as a lubricant or penetrant tho.
We live in a swamp here
condensing conditions most days at some point.
#13
I totally agree with that. I use wheel bearing grease. Its thick and wont dry out or crack. Grease is easy to remove but not rust. It may be messy but when you're ready to assemble your block, you'll thank yourself later.
#15
How long? You say built, you mean tanked, new bearings, rings, cam installed with new bearings chain and gears? What environment will it be stored in? Climate controlled indoor, outdoor building, or outdoors? Will you have regular access to it?
Things are the things to consider when deciding a method.
If you have regular access I would oil everything with heavy oil and rotate, cover with cloth so it breaths and doesn't condensate. If you decide on grease in cylinders and deck surface clean before installing heads.
If stored in worse conditions and for a loooong time, put it in a tub or drum and fill with non- contaminated used engine or trans. oil. Remove let it drip and wipe off.
Things are the things to consider when deciding a method.
If you have regular access I would oil everything with heavy oil and rotate, cover with cloth so it breaths and doesn't condensate. If you decide on grease in cylinders and deck surface clean before installing heads.
If stored in worse conditions and for a loooong time, put it in a tub or drum and fill with non- contaminated used engine or trans. oil. Remove let it drip and wipe off.
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February 12th, 2014 05:49 AM