This question has probably been asked many times but new 1968 cutlass 442 owner and I need to solve my starter overheating issue so I can drive my ride. I am sure this is common and someone has a simple solution.

 

Am assuming you have headers which can heat the starter making it not wanting to turn over the engne when warm. There are heat shields available, you can have a high tork starter with high temp rated solenoid built, you can install the mini starter and you could install a relocated solenoid for your full size starter.

 

I do not have headers. The car has sat for 17 years and I am breaking in easy. Runs solid, starts good, but I think you have provided good insight. Of the options you have provided which one would you try first?

 

Well with that info, have your starter rebuilt by a good starter shop and tell them you want a high torque unit, coils and high heat solenoid and you should be fine.

 

What are your symptoms? Are you sure it's your starter?
These starters worked fine in all weather in millions of cars for dozens of years.

- Eric

 

Most starter problems outside issues within the starter itself are caused by dirty/corroded terminals at the starter and horn relay power distribution block. It can also be related to dirty battery terminals or cable end lugs.

Another cause is timing too far advanced causing the engine to want to kick back.

 

It acts similar to a bad wire connection but they all check out clean. It starts fine when it is cold. When I am running around town there are times when I turn the key and it clicks. Turn Key, Click. Turn Key start. But if I drive it for a good distance, say 20 minutes on the highway then sometimes I don't even get the click. Just dead. Let it cool to 140 degrees or so and it starts.
Since I have verified all the electrical connections I think I may start with rebuilding the starter to be sure it is solid.

 

Your problem is probably in the purple wire to the starter solenoid S terminal.

You can check this by connecting a temporary wire to this terminal, running along out of the way to be near the battery, and leaving it there, then the next time the engine is good and warm, and won't turn over, open the hood and touch the end of this wire to the (+) battery terminal. If the starter turns over, then the purple wire is your problem.
Essentially, the cranking circuit, from the horn relay terminal, through the ignition switch, through the neutral safety switch, to the solenoid, can develop little bits of corrosion all along, which add up to not providing enough current to fully pull in the solenoid when hot.
The easiest solution is to install a relay in the circuit (a regular "cube" "foglight" SPST relay) to direct a full 12V from the battery to the solenoid when cranking.

Check this first, before taking everything apart.

- Eric

 

My 66 started doing the same thing changing just the solenoid ($20) fixed it.

 

I'd sell the car. It's obviously no good. JK, I'm running a high torque mini starter in mine and like it a lot. NO issues whatsoever.

 

First, by "starter overheating", I assume you are talking about the common GM hot start problem. Second, I'll point out that these cars didn't have this problem when they came from the factory, and you have stock manifolds, not headers. The problem is caused by resistance buildup in the wiring and solenoid as the car ages. A brand new, high quality solenoid and new brushes in the starter motor will go a long ways towards fixing this problem. The problem is compounded by the convoluted NSS wiring circuit that can and does introduce resistance into the circuit, causing further voltage drop. The Ford solenoid is a common change (note that I did not say "upgrade") to address this problem, but frankly it is done for the wrong reasons. There is a much simpler solution, as I detailed in this thread. Scroll down to post #12 in that thread.

 

Post #13 is better. More informed writer also. :0

Also, if you do get into reworking the starter, just for good measure, there is a GM alternate SPRING for inside the solenoid- I have a few on hand. Dirt cheap.

Difficult to find the PN in my database, easier to step out to the garage and read a box.

Will add that later.

 

I didn't say to STOP reading at post 12...

 

Meh, I think post #8 is what most do... It will out last the car.

 

You probably have a corroded +battery terminal at the starter.

Sounds like you need to check or add more ground wires, too.
Battery to engine block
engine block to frame.
engine block to firewall

The more grounds you have, the easier the starter turns over.

It's possible to heat soak your starter with electrical overheating too. Not just exhaust.

 

IMHO J-(Chicago) nailed it. The electricity, in your basic 12 volt auto system, flows out the negative side of the battery, and returns through the positive cable. Remember the electron is negatively charged in an atom. If you have corrosion on the ground at the battery or on the block it will cause this issue. You could try making a new zero gage ground cable and run it right down to the starter. Another thing to look at would be rust, oil, or paint between the starter and block. It needs to be clean. A little Dielectric grease at the starter will help prevent corrosion. The other thing you may want to look into is the heat sheild that clips onto your solenoid.