Heads: Need opinions (Pro Comp, Edelbrock, OEM)
#1
Heads: Need opinions (Pro Comp, Edelbrock, OEM)
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and looking for some advice on cylinder heads for my 455 build.
This engine will be for a street car. But, I'm looking to eek out as much streetable power as I can, without going overboard.
Ultimately, I'd like to have over 400 HP at the wheels. So, I'm shooting for at least 450 HP and 500+ Ft Lbs at the crank.
So..........to my question(s).
I have 3 options for cylinder heads for my build:
Edelbrock
Pro Comp
1970 E Heads Big Valve
Is there anyone here with and REAL experience with the Pro Comp "Mondello" Heads?
If so, what are your thoughts?
Edelbrock heads seem like a great choice, but how much better than the others are they "out of the box"?
I have access to a set of E heads "big valve" from a 1970 Toronado. I'm sure they will need to be re worked (valves, valve job, springs, etc..)
I would be able to do some mild porting on the E heads if I use them.
So, Should I just buy the Edelbrocks? Or can I get the power that I am looking for from the Pro Comps? Or just get the "E" heads and re-work/port them?
Thanks in advance for any input.
This engine will be for a street car. But, I'm looking to eek out as much streetable power as I can, without going overboard.
Ultimately, I'd like to have over 400 HP at the wheels. So, I'm shooting for at least 450 HP and 500+ Ft Lbs at the crank.
So..........to my question(s).
I have 3 options for cylinder heads for my build:
Edelbrock
Pro Comp
1970 E Heads Big Valve
Is there anyone here with and REAL experience with the Pro Comp "Mondello" Heads?
If so, what are your thoughts?
Edelbrock heads seem like a great choice, but how much better than the others are they "out of the box"?
I have access to a set of E heads "big valve" from a 1970 Toronado. I'm sure they will need to be re worked (valves, valve job, springs, etc..)
I would be able to do some mild porting on the E heads if I use them.
So, Should I just buy the Edelbrocks? Or can I get the power that I am looking for from the Pro Comps? Or just get the "E" heads and re-work/port them?
Thanks in advance for any input.
Last edited by nearma12; January 3rd, 2014 at 06:40 AM.
#2
Choices
My thoughts, for what you're trying to achieve, would be to go with the Pro Comps. They will be your best bang for the buck. To do up a set of cast iron heads, good valves and springs would be over $400, a valve job is close to $375, if they need guides or seats you might be getting close to a grand. The new Edelbrocks look real nice. They have redesigned the combustion chamber. The jury is still out on the added performance benefits. Of course they are a bit more money than the Pro Comps. You can also get upgrades done by Bernard Mondello on either head you choose. Call him, he's a great guy to deal with. You should upgrade your cam, intake, and exhaust while you are at it. There has been a lot of debate on the value of porting cast iron heads in my thread - "Home Porting Techniques".
Last edited by 67 Cutlass Freak; January 2nd, 2014 at 08:14 PM.
#3
I have the procomps on my 455, I have Harland Sharp rockers on them.
It runs awesome. No complaints at all.
I'm using them as purchased straight out of the box from Jegs (not from bernard mondello for $500 more).
My machinist dissembled them, checked them and was happy enough with what he found that he ordered up a set of their Big Block Chevy heads for one of his own projects.
It runs awesome. No complaints at all.
I'm using them as purchased straight out of the box from Jegs (not from bernard mondello for $500 more).
My machinist dissembled them, checked them and was happy enough with what he found that he ordered up a set of their Big Block Chevy heads for one of his own projects.
#4
I have the procomps on my 455, I have Harland Sharp rockers on them.
It runs awesome. No complaints at all.
I'm using them as purchased straight out of the box from Jegs (not from bernard mondello for $500 more).
My machinist dissembled them, checked them and was happy enough with what he found that he ordered up a set of their Big Block Chevy heads for one of his own projects.
It runs awesome. No complaints at all.
I'm using them as purchased straight out of the box from Jegs (not from bernard mondello for $500 more).
My machinist dissembled them, checked them and was happy enough with what he found that he ordered up a set of their Big Block Chevy heads for one of his own projects.
Wow that's really a good deal. So you got these Procomp Olds heads for $550, ready to run from Jegs? That's the absolute cheapest I've heard them selling for. I went to Jegs and Summit's websites and could not find a listing for these heads in either of their online catalogs. A friend of mine is a Procomp dealer and he told me his price on a bare pair of castings was $600.
#5
Wow that's really a good deal. So you got these Procomp Olds heads for $550, ready to run from Jegs? That's the absolute cheapest I've heard them selling for. I went to Jegs and Summit's websites and could not find a listing for these heads in either of their online catalogs. A friend of mine is a Procomp dealer and he told me his price on a bare pair of castings was $600.
The mondello ones are $1450 with their upgraded valves & hw.
#6
If you check Edelbrock heads now they are also $930 same as Procomps, I think they used to be around $1400-1500 as well?
Ah skip that sold per head not per pair for which you can get the Procomps.
Ah skip that sold per head not per pair for which you can get the Procomps.
Last edited by Fullsizelover; January 3rd, 2014 at 12:28 AM.
#8
Procomps are $1100.00 a pair just about everywhere. I recommend using those.
The Edelbrocks are typically listed as each. I have never seen them for less than about $1650.00 a pair from any reputable dealer/warehouse.
The Edelbrocks are typically listed as each. I have never seen them for less than about $1650.00 a pair from any reputable dealer/warehouse.
Last edited by cutlassefi; January 3rd, 2014 at 07:18 PM.
#9
Any modern aluminum head is a easy 50-75hp improvement over stock heads. I think it would be really difficult to properly rebuild cast iron heads for less than $500-600 (machine work, springs,etc) How much would you have to spend in porting to get the added power aftermarket offer? Its a no brainer in my opinion which way to go!
#10
Any modern aluminum head is an easy 50-75hp improvement over stock heads. I think it would be really difficult to properly rebuild cast iron heads for less than $500-600 (machine work, springs,etc) How much would you have to spend in porting to get the added power aftermarket offer? Its a no brainer in my opinion which way to go!
Ehhh I'm not so sure you should expect that much difference on a mild build. More like 30-40 on an untouched set of aluminums. But a good investment nonetheless.
#11
OK, thanks for all the input. Looks like I will probably try a set of ProComp then.
Is it better to buy them bare and install a better valve train? Or do you think the ProComp setup assembled by Bernard Mondello is sufficient for my build?
Like I stated, I'm really hoping for 450+ HP 500+ ft lbs at the crank.
Will I need to do any work to the heads to achieve these #'s? (Ex. Mild Porting, better valve job)
This will be a complete overhaul, so the block will be machined, all bearings replaced, crank re-ground etc.. I don't have every specific part picked out for the build yet. But just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking:
.030 over bore
High Performance street cam (Not sure which grind yet)
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
9.5-1 maybe 10-1 pistons
Edelbrock 750
P.S. If anyone has suggestions for a good combo of parts, I'm all ears.
Thanks again for all the input!
Is it better to buy them bare and install a better valve train? Or do you think the ProComp setup assembled by Bernard Mondello is sufficient for my build?
Like I stated, I'm really hoping for 450+ HP 500+ ft lbs at the crank.
Will I need to do any work to the heads to achieve these #'s? (Ex. Mild Porting, better valve job)
This will be a complete overhaul, so the block will be machined, all bearings replaced, crank re-ground etc.. I don't have every specific part picked out for the build yet. But just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking:
.030 over bore
High Performance street cam (Not sure which grind yet)
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold
9.5-1 maybe 10-1 pistons
Edelbrock 750
P.S. If anyone has suggestions for a good combo of parts, I'm all ears.
Thanks again for all the input!
#12
OK, thanks for all the input. Looks like I will probably try a set of ProComp then.
Is it better to buy them bare and install a better valve train? Or do you think the ProComp setup assembled by Bernard Mondello is sufficient for my build?
I'd go with Bernards' stuff for your build
Like I stated, I'm really hoping for 450+ HP 500+ ft lbs at the crank.
Do a search on here "Kyles 455 build". I did that one, it made 451/508 and there was more in it. That had old Edelbrocks, or essentially the new Procomps on it.
Will I need to do any work to the heads to achieve these #'s? (Ex. Mild Porting, better valve job) No.
This will be a complete overhaul, so the block will be machined, all bearings replaced, crank re-ground etc.. I don't have every specific part picked out for the build yet. But just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking:
.030 over bore Use a Wiseco or Icon piston
High Performance street cam (Not sure which grind yet) I can help there if you like
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold Fine
9.5-1 maybe 10-1 pistons Shoot for 10.0:1
Edelbrock 750 Ehhh not my first choice, especially with a dual plane. Proform or Quick Fuel 850 would be better.
P.S. If anyone has suggestions for a good combo of parts, I'm all ears.
Thanks again for all the input!
Is it better to buy them bare and install a better valve train? Or do you think the ProComp setup assembled by Bernard Mondello is sufficient for my build?
I'd go with Bernards' stuff for your build
Like I stated, I'm really hoping for 450+ HP 500+ ft lbs at the crank.
Do a search on here "Kyles 455 build". I did that one, it made 451/508 and there was more in it. That had old Edelbrocks, or essentially the new Procomps on it.
Will I need to do any work to the heads to achieve these #'s? (Ex. Mild Porting, better valve job) No.
This will be a complete overhaul, so the block will be machined, all bearings replaced, crank re-ground etc.. I don't have every specific part picked out for the build yet. But just to give you an idea of what I'm thinking:
.030 over bore Use a Wiseco or Icon piston
High Performance street cam (Not sure which grind yet) I can help there if you like
Edelbrock Performer Intake manifold Fine
9.5-1 maybe 10-1 pistons Shoot for 10.0:1
Edelbrock 750 Ehhh not my first choice, especially with a dual plane. Proform or Quick Fuel 850 would be better.
P.S. If anyone has suggestions for a good combo of parts, I'm all ears.
Thanks again for all the input!
Hope this helps.
#13
I recommend Bernard all day. Cutlassefi provides honest straight dope on this site so his words are solid. Bernard will give you support, understand, he speaks in precision not backyard mechanic but he will help you through.
My build is a stock bottom end 400 bored .030 long ago. I used Bernard's heads with Howard roller cam, lifters & rockers. Bernard recommended the Howard "ford" rockers for best alignment. Performer intake, QFT 750. ARH 3" stainless headers. engine Dyno produced 415hp 505ftlbs.
was hoping for a bit more power but my next move will be to dump the 400 block & move to the 455. I highly recommend the engine dyno & run time as you will avoid finding a booboo after the engine is sitting firmly on their mounts.
My build is a stock bottom end 400 bored .030 long ago. I used Bernard's heads with Howard roller cam, lifters & rockers. Bernard recommended the Howard "ford" rockers for best alignment. Performer intake, QFT 750. ARH 3" stainless headers. engine Dyno produced 415hp 505ftlbs.
was hoping for a bit more power but my next move will be to dump the 400 block & move to the 455. I highly recommend the engine dyno & run time as you will avoid finding a booboo after the engine is sitting firmly on their mounts.
#14
nearma12 there are builds on here in the 450 to 500 hp range and 500+ tq.I use a 750 carb, performer manifold cut down,hyr cam 538/538 236/244@.050 full roller valve train,10.3 forged pistons....that should be close to 450hp/525tq. Many competent people on here that will help ya..
#15
I would go with around 11 to 1 compression and a total package that can handle 5700 to 6000rpm about 400 to 425 at the wheels. if you mean flywheel horsepower and torque 10.25 to 1 compression jm 18-20 or 20-22 cam daily driver types. I have used edelbrocks and they show about 40 gross over cast iron and have a natural aggressive street port built in and are very good and durable and do not warp from what I have seen naturally. weimer machinery in Berwyn il flow tested mine and cleaned them up and found out thru there experience that these heads can flow a lot of power period.
#16
Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and looking for some advice on cylinder heads for my 455 build.
This engine will be for a street car. But, I'm looking to eek out as much streetable power as I can, without going overboard.
Ultimately, I'd like to have over 400 HP at the wheels. So, I'm shooting for at least 450 HP and 500+ Ft Lbs at the crank.
So..........to my question(s).
I have 3 options for cylinder heads for my build:
Edelbrock
Pro Comp
1970 E Heads Big Valve
Is there anyone here with and REAL experience with the Pro Comp "Mondello" Heads?
If so, what are your thoughts?
Edelbrock heads seem like a great choice, but how much better than the others are they "out of the box"?
I have access to a set of E heads "big valve" from a 1970 Toronado. I'm sure they will need to be re worked (valves, valve job, springs, etc..)
I would be able to do some mild porting on the E heads if I use them.
So, Should I just buy the Edelbrocks? Or can I get the power that I am looking for from the Pro Comps? Or just get the "E" heads and re-work/port them?
Thanks in advance for any input.
This engine will be for a street car. But, I'm looking to eek out as much streetable power as I can, without going overboard.
Ultimately, I'd like to have over 400 HP at the wheels. So, I'm shooting for at least 450 HP and 500+ Ft Lbs at the crank.
So..........to my question(s).
I have 3 options for cylinder heads for my build:
Edelbrock
Pro Comp
1970 E Heads Big Valve
Is there anyone here with and REAL experience with the Pro Comp "Mondello" Heads?
If so, what are your thoughts?
Edelbrock heads seem like a great choice, but how much better than the others are they "out of the box"?
I have access to a set of E heads "big valve" from a 1970 Toronado. I'm sure they will need to be re worked (valves, valve job, springs, etc..)
I would be able to do some mild porting on the E heads if I use them.
So, Should I just buy the Edelbrocks? Or can I get the power that I am looking for from the Pro Comps? Or just get the "E" heads and re-work/port them?
Thanks in advance for any input.
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