60193W30

Just wondering what brand of headers everyone is using and why... I am looking at the SC Hookers, but man they are expensive. (1.875/3.5) How are the Doug's??? Headman???

This is a street car 455 .030 Edelbrock RPM's w/ the Air Gap & Quick Fuel 750...

mhouston44

I have the super comp hookers 1 3/4 to 3" collectors. I had them on iron heads without the center divider extended so I wasn't getting the full effect. I did notice a slight "seat of the pants" improvement. I think with the divided extended it would have been even greater. I do know that without pulling the engine they are very hard to install on the driver side. The last bolt closest to the firewall on the flannel is a pain to get out. I can also tell you that the starter is a major pain to remove with these headers but I'm sure that issue is present with every brand. Overall I was happy with them just wish id gone with the slightly larger ones

60193W30

44...
Do you have a full sized starter or a mini??? I have the engine out of the car as we speak and need to make a decision etc...

442Harv

Doug headers are great for the money.

mhouston44

I have full size starter. Part of my problem is my starter wires are all about 4 inches too short so I don't have enough slack to hook them to the solenoid without holding it awkwardly under the car. Then my battery terminal has to be turned at just the right angle to miss the engine mount crossmember and not lay against the headers and melt the cable.

captjim

FWIW, I always run a remote firewall mounted solenoid with headers. Makes access to fusible links easy and the cable going to the starter is only 'hot" when cranking. Cheaper, easier, safer.

ah64pilot

Doug's...mini starter...nickel plated they're on their 2nd engine And I think they still look nice

60193W30

Nice looking engine compartment 64... What did it cost you to get them nickle plated???

ah64pilot

I bought my Thorley's years ago for $350, before the company was sold. I looked on the website for headers and all I could find were ceramic coated. They sell for $874.00 but the ceramic coating will hold up better than chrome. If I didn't already have a set those are the headers I would go with...

http://dougthorleyheaders.com/produc.../productID/680

507OLDS

I bought my Hookers directly from Jet-Hot.They coated them in & out.They are the 1 7/8" primary tubes,and are mated to F-heads.The 1 3/4" primaries are barely big enough for a stock port engine.These headers are some of the better-fitting,and qality is good,thus the bigger pricetag.I run an IMI mini starter.However,I did run a stock 455 starter with these,for future reference & testing purposes,but the stock start wasn't quite enough to turn 12:1 compression over,and made me nervous when I was out on a trip.The stock starter will fit though,and it can be removed & installed without removing the header.I have not personally bought & installed a set of Doug's,but I have worked on cars that had them on,and they looked like a nice piece.They are also known for fitting 4-spd cars,which is what these cars all had.
If you get a set of Hookers,and there are small dents or dimples,they are there for a reason.I know there is one on the #1 tube to help clear the steering shaft,and another one down under for the suspension.
Another issue you will encounter with headers,is the brake distribution block on the frame.Most of the headers will hit this,or come real close,so it is best to relocate it.Most people just swing it up on top of the frame,where all of the lines still reach,and nothing is interrupted.The headers can be installed with the engine in the car,but if it is out,you can hang the headers in there first,and tie them off to the upper control arms,to keep them spread out,away from the engine,as you lower it in.It is also best to remove the oil filter and adapter when installing the headers or installing the engine with the headers in-place.There are also certain bolts that need to go into the headers first,when bolting them to the head.The ones that are hidden behind a sharp bend need to go in first.You need to feed the bolt through the hole on the flange,and start threading it intop the head.Otherwise if the header is already up against the head,you can't feed the bolt in.

60193W30

Thanks for all of the information and insight fellas... I grabbed a set of Hookers and will post pics when it is in place.

I also put a new cam, lifters, rockers etc and need to break it in prior to installing the new headers, right? They are ceramic coated and I do not want to void the warranty etc...

Joe

507OLDS

If your timing is too retarded,it could cause the headers to glow at the head,which can do some funny stuff to the coatings.Not a bad idea to get eveything broke-in,and set,but if you can get a good timing spot when you get it running,with the headers,it will be fine.