Guess my engine!
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Joined: Aug 2011
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Guess my engine!
I posted earlier asking how to find out what kind of engine is in my 1975 Cutlass Supreme. I've taken pictures as was suggested, so here they are. I just took a bunch because I wasn't sure what, if anything, would be useful.
I was told to find the casting number behind the water pump and/or the number stamped on the head. There are no pictures of those because I could not access the internet when I was with the car, and I had forgotten what I was looking for. Anyway, thanks for looking at my probably useless pictures!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ums-cutty.html
I was told to find the casting number behind the water pump and/or the number stamped on the head. There are no pictures of those because I could not access the internet when I was with the car, and I had forgotten what I was looking for. Anyway, thanks for looking at my probably useless pictures!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ums-cutty.html
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Yup, no discussion there - it's an instant identification.
Those ID numbers are on the machined surface of the block that the head seals against - it's a little longer than the head and sticks out about 1/2" in the front, behind the alternator. Clean the thick grease off of it and write down or photograph the numbers.
On older blocks, a three-letter code will be part of the numbers, and can be looked up to see where the block came from.
- Eric
Those ID numbers are on the machined surface of the block that the head seals against - it's a little longer than the head and sticks out about 1/2" in the front, behind the alternator. Clean the thick grease off of it and write down or photograph the numbers.
On older blocks, a three-letter code will be part of the numbers, and can be looked up to see where the block came from.
- Eric
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10
Thanks for your help. I really know very little about this at this point, so please forgive my questions. These codes will give me the information needed to get the correct manual to guide me through repairs?
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
The three letter code will tell you what year, model, HP, and transmission the engine came out of
BUT
since this engine has been found installed in a car of the wrong make, you still have no idea what is inside it, whether it was rebuilt, how well, or in what way.
A manual will be of very little help to you here.
- Eric
BUT
since this engine has been found installed in a car of the wrong make, you still have no idea what is inside it, whether it was rebuilt, how well, or in what way.
A manual will be of very little help to you here.
- Eric
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10
The three letter code will tell you what year, model, HP, and transmission the engine came out of
BUT
since this engine has been found installed in a car of the wrong make, you still have no idea what is inside it, whether it was rebuilt, how well, or in what way.
A manual will be of very little help to you here.
- Eric
BUT
since this engine has been found installed in a car of the wrong make, you still have no idea what is inside it, whether it was rebuilt, how well, or in what way.
A manual will be of very little help to you here.
- Eric
Connoisseur d'Junque
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
The repair procedures will be the same for any small block chev.
The specifications for tuning, etc., though, may or may not have anything to do with the way that engine was set up at the factory:
It could have been bored. Or not.
It could have different pistons. Or not.
It could have a stroked crank. Or not.
It could have different heads. Or not.
It could have different compression. Or not.
It could have a different cam. Or not.
It could have different rockers. Or not.
It could have a different carb. Or not.
If could have a different distributor. Or not.
Or it could be completely stock, yanked out of a junked car and dropped into your Olds.
Only way to tell is to tear it down, which is very likely not worth the trouble.
So, you've got to tune it in whatever way seems best, and go from there.
- Eric
The specifications for tuning, etc., though, may or may not have anything to do with the way that engine was set up at the factory:
It could have been bored. Or not.
It could have different pistons. Or not.
It could have a stroked crank. Or not.
It could have different heads. Or not.
It could have different compression. Or not.
It could have a different cam. Or not.
It could have different rockers. Or not.
It could have a different carb. Or not.
If could have a different distributor. Or not.
Or it could be completely stock, yanked out of a junked car and dropped into your Olds.
Only way to tell is to tear it down, which is very likely not worth the trouble.
So, you've got to tune it in whatever way seems best, and go from there.
- Eric
Chevy budget Olds powered
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
i wouldn't shoe away the manual it's a good starting pioint for initial timing, vacuum diagrams etc etc. most manuals from chiltons have most gm engines since gm like to put chevy engines in pontiacs olds buick and vise versa but like md mechanic stated you may have to go further from factory specs since this engine may be modified but the manual always works as a good reference guide
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,475
From: Poteau, Ok
i wouldn't shoe away the manual it's a good starting pioint for initial timing, vacuum diagrams etc etc. most manuals from chiltons have most gm engines since gm like to put chevy engines in pontiacs olds buick and vise versa but like md mechanic stated you may have to go further from factory specs since this engine may be modified but the manual always works as a good reference guide
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 222
From: Charleston, SC
I'll try to stick with fact, not assumption...
Judging by the pics. I'd say it's been played with, or at least attempted.
The carb is not Rochester. And it's sitting on a spacer plate. On top of an aluminum intake (most likely Holley).
It's HEI Ignition.
Looks like worn headers.
With all that said, you could probably use specs from a late 70's Chevy product. That's definitely Chevy. As far as it being a 350, again, without numbers, there's no way to confirm it's size by pic. It could be a 350 or even a 400... But it could also be a 305 or a 283...
Agree with above... There's no way to know what's been done to it without digging inside. But that would have been true if it had an Olds engine too.
Try this and see if it works for you.
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
Judging by the pics. I'd say it's been played with, or at least attempted.
The carb is not Rochester. And it's sitting on a spacer plate. On top of an aluminum intake (most likely Holley).
It's HEI Ignition.
Looks like worn headers.
With all that said, you could probably use specs from a late 70's Chevy product. That's definitely Chevy. As far as it being a 350, again, without numbers, there's no way to confirm it's size by pic. It could be a 350 or even a 400... But it could also be a 305 or a 283...
Agree with above... There's no way to know what's been done to it without digging inside. But that would have been true if it had an Olds engine too.
Try this and see if it works for you.
http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-engine-code-stampings.php
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