Hello.
I need some help.I have a severe fuel leak on both ends of the pump to carb fuel line.This line need to be replaced.
The car has a 2bbl Rochester carb.and I cant find a vendor for a replacment ridgid line.I have decided to replace it with a rubber hose.I am having a hard time figuring out which type/size hose ends I need.
On the carb.I am searching an hose end simular to the one on the flared steel line.I am reusing the original fuelfilter.
On the fuelpump side,I am planning on skipping the 90deg. brass coupling ,and connect a 90 deg. hose end directly to the fuel pump.

I have to order this from US,and I want to get it right the first time.
Hope somebody can help me out.

 

Have you tried using several wraps of Teflon tape on the threads?

 

The old one is destroyed.I had to use it making an temporary fix.
This was the first start on a rebuildt engine.

 

You can get adapters from threaded to barbed, but don't know the availability in Norway. Might be easier to find a fitting with the filter removed and use an in-line filter instead. If using flexible line, probabably best to get braided stainless instead of plain rubber.
http://www.jegs.com/c/Fittings-Hose_...00711/10002/-1

You can make your own ridgid line with a flaring tool. Many parts shops in the US will lend you one. Teflon tape will not help seal flare fittings, only threaded fittings.

 

If your going to use a rubber line, use fuel injection line.

 

Why not just bend up a new line from copper tubing?

You could use steel, as original, but copper is easier to get and easier to shape.

If you don't have an American 45° flare tool, they're cheap and easy to get, and you should have one anyway. I would imagine that copper tubing is available over there, and if it's hard to find, you could certainly order a piece from over here, and the tubing, the nuts, and the flare kit would still probably cost less than a piece of prebent steel line, which you can't get anyway.

- Eric

 

 

"Have you tried using several wraps of Teflon tape on the threads?"
========================
Let's kill this notion rignt now that teflon tape or any other type of sealer will work on fuel/ brake inverted flare [or household single flare] fittings. Sealer/ tape is for tapered pipe fittings, like say the water passage coolant sensors, or your intake's vacuum fittings. Look closelier at the fuel line threads and notice there is no taper. None. The seal takes place at the flare on the end of the tube. It must mate properly to the seat down within the fitting.

here is one interesting article
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/ins...are-fittings#b

I was looking for a quick wiki-esque guide to the tapered thread NPT fitting vs other tubing type fittings. No luck yet.

oh wait, here is a badass guide
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we...n/ms-13-77.pdf
study it well, this will be on the midterm.

Brake Line will have the same fittings, already made to convenient lengths, and is easy to bend w/o kinking with modern types of tubing. Of course you must use a proper tubing bender tool... but if you measure the approximate length needed and bend your own, it should go well. Easy to use up excess length by providing different routing and generous curves.

I probably have a used factory tube, but they all kind of look alike in a pile.

 

I'll replay later,have to run.Sorry. Thank you so far.
The car is a -68 442 TPC,400cid.engine 2 bbl carb.

 

Is the pressure up to the carb so high that a metalpipe is recomended?
I got a 3/8" flaring tool,and I belive I can get 3/8" cooper tubing over here,so
that's definately an option.
I damaged the old line when I dismanteled the engine a couple of years back,
and forgot about it untill I saw the leak.
The nut and the pipe was rusted together,and I twisted the pipe before it came loose.
Made a quick fix using the good end of the pipe and the flared end of an old PS hose,with a rubber hose between.It works,but looks like ****.

 

It's not the pressure so much as the longevity and fragility of rubber compared to steel. Considering the ramifications of spraying exceedingly flammable liquid all over the sparkmaking hot engine in front of the customer occupants, the factory deemed steel line necessary. I agree.

Now, the fittings require a DOUBLE flare or inverted flare, so, you cannot make do with household flaring tools. And, Cu tubing may not work at all.

I provided a link to the All About Flares pdf file, anyone who ever wrenches on things should REALLY go over that and be familiar with the various types of fittings and how they work. There is a site that shows how to "flair" tubing, too, but I can't recommend it because it is run by idiots. It does show the tools and techniques though.

remember, the easiest way by far is to get pre-made brake line and bend it to suit. Done, just like that.

 

This is a 3/8"tube.Where can I find brakelines in this size?

 

Copper is not suitable for inverted double flares, as is used on fuel lines. The copper will fatigue at the sharp 180-degree bend and split, breaking the seal. Copper is also too ductile for high-vibration environments unless you provide a lot of support. This probably wouldn't be a problem with the pump-to-carb line, being short and with plenty of bends to add rigidity. But for longer lines, such as transmission cooler lines, copper will shake itself to death.

 

I agree, I wouldn't use it for a long run, or for a run between things with different vibration profiles, but between the fuel pump and the carb., I'd consider it safer than rubber.

It's certainly used for fuel oil connections in the home that are expected to last for decades.

- Eric

 

"safer than rubber"

is that the standard we strive for?
:-)
really?

"aw, hell it's better than aquarium air line!"

Where does one get 3/8 brake line? At the auto parts store...

oh yeah, you are not in the USA... well, we have metric and SAE tubing here, have you checked to see if they offer SAE tubing in your local stores?

Can you order from e.g. Rock Auto dot com for European delivery?

hell I cannot even find generic tubing at rockauto.com
or napaonline

here is a possibility

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Brake-...8d0043&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Steel-Brake-...103cd2&vxp=mtr

from the search

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...+line&_sacat=0

here is a "single use" [cheap] bender tool

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TUBING-TUBE-...item2c958312c6

 

I strive for "safer then Russian roulette" myself.

Anything else make me overconfident.

- Eric

 

Actually Norwegian regualations allow copper brakelines,but the distance between the clamps cant exceed 200mm or 8".
Normally an alloy called coppernickel is used for brakeline replacement,but I cant find that quality in 3/8".So I guess the way to go is to order a pre-made steel brakeline from the US.
I have used Rockauto alot,but they are sending from different locations,and international freights is expensive.I normally order to a US address,I have a lot of family in the US.They remove all unnessessary wrapping,put it all in one box and
ship it using USPS.

 

Yes, we have CuNi brake line here, too. I have used it with good results on my BMW (Goddamned Germans... too many damned bends for me to use steel line...).

- Eric

 

"Copper is not suitable for inverted double flares, as is used on fuel lines. The copper will fatigue at the sharp 180-degree bend and split, breaking the seal."
===

Correct me if I am wrong, but are not the L69 fuel lines typically executed in double "flaired" copper tubing?

PS the correct term for a tube with a flare on it is "flared".