Looking to put together a street/ strip shortblock. Looking for recommendations on pistons and compression ratio?

 

Which engine? Early 400 / 425 or later 400 / 455?

 

455

 

I just had my 455 rebuilt, used wiseco forged pistons. Compression on mine is calculated at 9.90/1. Just a touch under 10. Used H beam rods.. around 600 for pistons

 

I used CP Bullet series from BTR in Rochester, NY

 

You have Icons and SRP’s as well.

 

I'm looking to build a street/strip 461 stock N crank w/ forged pistons. Will the stock rods be enough to handle 400-500 HP? (if reconditioned)

 

400hp yes. 500hp maybe. I've seen stock rods live at 600hp and I've personally had stock rods not stay round at 450hp. IMO for anything over a stock rebuild new H-beams are a no brainer.

 

x 2.. the weight savings alone on rotating assembly is unbelievable..when mine was done the WEIGHT difference in stock rods and old TRW replacement pistons was right at 290 grams..they had to drill some big holes in crank to balance it all out …

 

You could try to refurbish the connecting rods and improving them with smoothing and polishing the beams, followed by shot peening the rods at .010-.014" A. But in the end, it would be cheaper and easier on bearings to just buy quality "H beam" connecting rods.
....Just my two cents worth.

 

You want 400 or 500hp? Big difference on how to get there reliably.

 

Definitely looking for reliability...

I would like to keep the engine stock appearing w/ some grunt. The car is a broadcast card documented 70 W-30 w/ non numbers etc...
Here are a few items I would like to keep but I'm assuming these could be barriers too...
I would like to use the stock valve covers, factory intake & a Rochester carb...

Currently looking at the following combo...
Wiseco .03 w/ Eagle rods H rods

What compression should I look to target w/ iron heads...

 

Rocket Racing sells their rods, heads and (to my knowledge) the only aftermarket block available. Billet cranks as well

 

Exactly what I used on my 70 w30 engine, F heads, compression was just under 10-1. Perfect as 93 octane works well. Used a bullet custom ground hydraulic flat tappet cam. Car runs strong..

 

Aftermarket rods.
Hydrologic Roller cam (lots of benefits).
Johnson roller lifters.
HS roller rockers (will fit under stock valve cover with baffle mod).



Good aftermarket piston CP, Diamond ect.
Compression between 10 and 10.5 depending on cam choice.
Internal balance.
Don't order pistons until head and block work is corrected and verified.

 

Actually it's best to have pistons in hand before doing any block work. That way you can take actual measurements from the pistons to determine bore size and deck height.

 

Yes, I should have been more specific.
I'm like to clean up the cylinders and square the block to see where she stands. Check head surfaces and mill if needed and CC. Determine compression ratio based on piston/rod characteristics, head CC , in hole depth and gaskets being used ect. Order pistons and do final bore for clearance and double check all the above and balance
I am sure you have much more experience than I. I have seen my share of shady machine shop work.
All I was trying to say is, don't go off half cocked buying pistons without knowing specifics and having a plan.

 

Lots of ways to skin this cat..really all depends on what your comfortable with on the expense side. Roller cams cost quite a bit more than flat tappets etc. Are they worth it? That depends on what you’re gonna do with the car and if you’re OK with spending the extra money. Everybody says flat tappet cam’s have flattened lobe issues, however, if you buy a good quality, solid brand cam, and use the correct break in oil, Have the distributor and everything set up correctly so it fires up on the first crank then you should have no problem. It really depends what you want to do there’s really no answer that’s wrong.