Has anyone tried using forged 455 crank in a performance build? I get that they are heavy but has anyone had one lightened and offset ground? I want to use my forged crank in my 496 build!

 

You have a forged 455 crank?

- Eric

 

they are around. I got one stashed. not that special.

 

I know you've got one, Chris. You've got one of everything buried somewhere or other, including a solid-web 403.

I was wondering about him.

- Eric

 

Yes I bought one a few months Ago with intentions of using it in my upcoming 496 build but want to hear of others that have tried using one! As far as the olds world goes the Nodular cranks are not that special! With around approximately 100 forged cranks made I'd say they are rare and special! That's less made than the NASCAR block I have or my Batten heads!

 

I would bet there were more than a hundred made. I have one still in the 68 455 and one bare. I would guess more like a few thousand made because the 68 Delta I pulled the 455 out of was an early car but not a first run car. I think it was a November 68 build and the motor was numbers matching and untouched. I am sure there were many more 455's built before this one in other big cars and Toros.

 

How much power do you plan on making with the proposed 496 build? That will dictate the level of crank you need.

 

I would like 6-650 but handle A 250 shot of the blue bottle!

 

Bull chit more than that amount of forged cranks were made by far!!!I have one!! Standard/ standard. Let us know how your build progress is doing and post some pics good luck on your efforts sounds like a cool build.

 

the forged crank is about 20+ or so pounds heavier than the nodular crank, if it were me i would be concerned about making it too light considering the torque of the engine, i dont have experience with grinding down the counterweights but it seems if i wanted a high rpm engine it would be safer to knife edge the crank

 

Well how many were made then!? I dought there were thousands! I'm sure that lightened up a bit they are still plenty strong but I'm no machinist!

 

my 524 build utilizes a forged steel 455 crank offset ground to 4.550"


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-strokers.html

 

If you're looking to make 900hp then you have other worries.

The block will need a full girdle with billet caps, and most likely some block fill. The reciprocating assembly will need to be top notch but as light as possible. And the crank will need to be nitrided etc. At that point imo it would best to just get a billet crank as well, instead of slinging around 90lbs of a 45+ year old forging. The suddenness of Nitrous takes a different toll on parts than even a blown application.

If I were you I'd do a DX block instead. You'll most likely have a better chance of not ever running over your crank, rods and assorted other pieces.
Just sayin.

 

Oh I understand what it takes to make big power on the big blocks. I was just curious if the factory forged 455 crank can take it? I have an unused AJ Foyt NASCAR block with a set of unused stage 3 Battens that I want built later on. That One is going to be my serious build but I gotta save big for that one!

Oldsmobiledave, what rods, Pistons and heads did you use on that 524" build? What kind of power did you make? I'm interested? This engine is going to be an in between motor as saving for my NASCAR build.

 

You must not have clicked on the link I posted. Click & read to answer all your questions.

 

Sorry I skipped right over it! I might just stick with the 496 as it's not going to be an all out race engine.

 

I was not suggesting that you build a 524. You asked if anyone was using the steel 455 crank in a performance build & I answered that I am using one.


The 496 should serve you well but why not just go ahead & build your Nascar block? I love my 524 BBO but if I had to choose the SBO is a better engine in my estimation.

 

Yeah I hear you but if there was more meat on the cylinder walls then I'd be all for it.

I have a lot of the parts that interchange between both big and small locks but I was thinking I'd build a 455 and use that for a few years while I save for my NASCAR build! The F2 blower and billet bracket will be pretty expensive! I was going to put the 455 in a G body olds after.

 

So are you going to spray the 496 or not?
Don't waste your money on a big block build, just build the NASCAR block and be done with it.

Jmo.

 

Well the car is setup for nitrous already. I could just lower the jet size and give it just 100 shot. What do you think about that Cutlassefi? I've always wanted a nice 455 as well. I already bought a 71 block a few weeks ago.

 

Either way if you're going to be making 600 or better billet caps and/or a girdle is a must.

 

The exact number may not be know for sure but it is way more than a hundred that you suggested. Anyway would like to hear all you do on your build post up some pics!

 

Yeah I'll get some pics of the build in process when it happens!

 

Somebody has been smoking a controlled substance. N crank weighs about 70 lb. Forged 425 and 455 cranks about 76 lb.

 

I will drink to that burp!!

 

455 cranks are around 90 pounds!

 

I shipped a 425 crank a couple years ago in a Scat box. It weighed 84#. I don't think the box weighed 8#. And forged 455 cranks are more than that. And I've weighed more than a few N cranks. All weighed around 74#.

Just an FYI.

 

Hey Cutlassefi, I was just curious what internals you recommend? I've been researching it pretty heavily and this was what I was thinking.

71 455 block
68 455 forged crank lightened and knife edged offset ground to
4.500"
Cat power 7.1" chevy rods
Mahle or Cp Pistons
Ported polished edelbrock rpm heads with beehives or equivalent for 600+ lift if need be
10.5ish compression
Rpm air gap or torker intake
Holley hp 950
Ati super dampener
Ati flexplate
Crank trigger
Msd billet dist w/6al box
Blaster coil
Arh 2" primary

My only issues are cam specs. Obvious you custom grind them and id be interested in your services.
I'm planning on using an art carr prepped 200r4 and 3.70ish rear gear......possibly 3.90 in my 9"
Your thoughts?

 

Depending on your converter something in the upper 240@.050 range. Lift would depend on cyl head flow.

Hope this helps.

 

496 recipe good luck on the build! Should run pretty good when done.

 

Thinking 3-3500 stall but was going to see where the torque really kicks in on dyno pulls. Just curious Cutlassefi, why torker over rpm air gap? What kind of cleareance will I gave for a w-25 hood?

 

You could actually use either one, you have big enough carb. But the Torker is a little teenie bit lower and you won't really need the extra low end torque the RPM would give you.

 

Yeah I wish I needed a victor so I could keep the air cooler on the way in but that's overkill I'd say plus no clearance!

 

I personally wouldn't use the 455 steel crank. I had one and planned to use it but after more research on the subject I decided to sell it and go with a billet for the new build. The forged 455 cranks are more a novelty than anything else. If you don't want to spend the cash on a billet I would just use a 425 crank.

 

I do understand that they are heavy and maybe outdated a bit but since I have it im going to try and use it. Maybe I'm making a mistake but I'd like to see it done and hopefully work well!