My 455 is equipped with a Quadrojet that as a new electric choke. It is adjusted properly and worked fine for the last few years but lately it as been "sticking" and it wont come down from 1400 RPM but then when i turn the engine off it "Diesel's'" a bit. I sprayed carburator cleaner on all the linkage, started up and seemed fixed. A couple of days later happy to have solved the issue i started the car up and again it sticks at 1200 RPM and if you tap the gas it goes to 1400 RPM so i sprayed everything again but this time it didnt help at all. Could i have a worn/bad accelarator cable causing this issue? Just trying to think a little bit outside the box to find a solution. I just adjusted the timing but could it be a timing issue were by distributor is going bad therefore causing this issue? Any help is much appreciated.

 

Here's your own thread rather than resurrecting one that's a decade old.

 

Pull the air cleaner lid when it is warm and won't idle down. If the choke blade is perfectly vertical the fast idle cam linkage on the right side of the carburetor is sticking. If the choke blade isn't vertical the choke thermostat is out of adjustment, not getting power or the choke blade or its linkage is binding. Tell us the position of the choke blade and we'll try to walk you through it from there.

Good luck!!!

 

No expert, but here are my two cents.

The electric choke unwinds when voltage is applied. When cold, it’s tightly coiled holding the flapper closed, then when you start the car, it get voltage & starts loosening.

But if there’s dirt & dust in the linkage on the passenger side of the carb, that can impede the loosening process.

Your 1st move is to shoot a little lubrication into the linkage on the passenger side of the carb. That _may_ put the choke back into action.

Your 2nd move, if the spray-n-pray doesn’t work, is to remove the choke mechanism on the passenger side of the carb and use #0000 steel wool to clean the h*ll out of anything that has dust or pivots. You’re aiming at polishing the outer edges of each arm that is pivoted upon. And polishing the inner edges of anything that is supposed to pivot on an arm.

The goal, if you get into it, is to get everything moving as smoothly as possible. Polished surfaces pivot more smoothly and will resist an loosening choke coil less than dirty ones. After you polish, give a strong thought to lubricating everything that’s supposed to pivot with your favorite stuff — graphite, lithium grease, silicone or what have you. Your choice.

Hope that helps.

Chris

 

Honestly i do not know what the choke blade looks like or were it's located. Since i have an original force air induction system i feel better taking it off prior to any adjustment or cleaning.

 

Check flap adjustment best you can, after that, check the fast idle adjustment.

​​​​​​….

 

In that case I would recommend you look at a QuadraJet carburetor diagram to familiarize yourself with the various parts and how the connect to each other. It's all relatively simple, the only difference is the factory setup for your car was a hot air choke coil. It does the same thing as the electric choke coil, it just gets heated using a different method.

https://quadrajetparts.com/-a-9.html

 

The yellow arrow in this picture points to the choke blade.

Follow Sugar Bear's trouble-shooting and let us know what blade position you see when the choke is warm.

 

When engine is @ 1400 rpm is the linkage touching the idle speed screw as in the picture?