Maybe I'll type it in all again, right now I'm so pissed just can't get it done!

 

It happens to me also especially when you type out complete instructions to help someone and it pisses me off also!! So dont feel like the Lone Ranger!

 

i hate when that happens

 

You've got to make a habit of pressing "Select All" and then "Copy" before posting anything big.
Otherwise... BANG!

- Eric

 

Here we go again, it's already dropped me once, but I think i have it beat.
The method of determining pushrod length for a stud rocker application uses an adjustable pushrod, set to a given length that you think might be correct. First set your valve lash, to zero, tighten your rocker-arm locking nut, cycle the camshaft, and watch the way the rocker arm travels throughout the range. If the contact point of the roller tip travels away from the stud centerline as it reaches maximum lift, your pushrod is too short. If your contact point travels toward the stud centerline from zero lift to maximum lift, your pushrod is too long. If the contact point at zero lift and at full lift is the same contact point on the valvestem, then your pushrod length is correct, maximum valve lift is achieved and proper rocker-arm geometry is set.
In hydraulic-lifter applications this procedure has to be performed with a lightweight checking spring, so that the lifter plunger does not collapse during the lift cycle. You need to add .050” or so to the pushrod length to allow for the recommended .050” lifter preload in the hydraulic lifter. OR you can set valve lash for zero lash and add an extra ½ turn, this makes up the .050” of preload on the lifter, this way you would not add any length to the pushrod after determining the correct length.
Note: Notice where the roller tip contacts the valve at zero lift. If it is not in the center, not a problem, as long as it is in the same spot at full lift.
Thanks to Bill Trovato, with a little input from me

 

Another variation on Eric's comment is to do the big compositions in a word program, do all the grammar/spelling corrections, and after all is as you like, do a copy/paste into the CO site.

 

wow thank you...that will help a lot!!

 

No trouble, keep us posted on how you make out.

 

sooo...that worked great.

i'm @ 9.054" now (pre-load included)...thanks again Old Olds Fan

oh yeah...and there's a new #1 on my list of things i hate (it used to be "wire-brushing")

...DOWEL PINS!!! ....what a PITA!!

bought an adjustable timing set that needs a longer dowel pin so i had to pull this sucker

was a 2 hour job @ 91 °F

 

Don't know how you did it, I've always clamped the pin down in a vice and then knocked the cam away from the pin, usually comes out with little effort, but the key is to knock the cam back from the pin, maybe this will help if there's a next time.

 

Not really sure you needed a longer dowel pin. The offset dowels can't go anywhere with the fuel pump eccentric on. You may have just created extra work for yourself.

 

i'm not familiar with that kind of timing gears so i relied on the installation instructions...

but yeah...after a closer look i would say you are right

another thing is the cam button...i know that you need to control fore and aft movement on roller cams...but the distributor gear pushes the cam backwards, didnt it? also cam buttons dont seem to be very popular on 455 olds engines..its more like a chevy thing. none of the big cam dealers got a cam button for olds engines...like compcams, lunati and so on..

 

My bad I assumed it was an offset dowel arrangement but now that I think of it you're probably using a multi-keyed crank sprocket.

So the manufacturer said to get a longer dowel pin?

 

Yeah...this one:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Cloyes/220/9-3113A/10002/-1

 

what about the cam button? still not sure if i need one...

 

Your cam bolt is the cam button essentially. Just check it for proper clearance and gtg.

 

Been racing OLdsmobiles for 40 years and never used one, but some swear by them I have one of the Mondello plastic ones and after measuring I will have to cut the spring one loop its a tight clearance and like Trip said your cam bolt is your cam button but X2 what Trip said check your clearances with the gasket thickness included! I have had one engine wear a shiny spot on the cover but that was all.

 

great...after installing the timing gear set i noticed that the original cam bolt is too long. wont be able to mount the front cover but i guess i only need to grind the bolt down till i reach the desired clearance...like .010" ?

 

you have had your share of bumps in the road for sure...it will be great once your finished and out cruisin in style

 

EightballZ .010 is fine but measure with the gasket in place and a staight edge across. ONe thing leads to another but I hope you dont have any more SNAFU's!

 

thanks guys..

i've read that oversized valves are the reason for different intake and exhaust push rod lengths...but seriously..i don't get it

can someone explain please?

 

A longer valve stem but not the valve head size.
As long as the valve tips are all in line and the same height you'll be using the same push rods for each valve.

 

well..that makes sense :-)

 

looks like i can put the engine back by the end of june so i'm collecting some info on certain things when she's alive again.

• what about timing? any ideas? distributor is stock 1111982...i guess i need to recurve it? install an adjustable vac can?
• carb jetting; carb is a stock qjet 7040252..will this lead to lean condition? gonna order an AFR-gauge for proper adjustment later

any oil recommendations? thought about 10W-30 something plus break in additive ..

 

Recurving the distributor is a good idea and you will have to up the jets possibly on the rochester and the metering rods. On the oil 10w30 is perfect and if you can get it get Brad Penn oil!!! it has all the additives you need and I would still put in a break in additive. Use a good filter NAPA Wix gold or KN are good the wix gold are in my opinion the best. ON the vacuum can is that a cannister for the brakes? or are you talking about the vacuum advance on your distributor. If you have it recurved they may have to change that cannister but usually you can get the advance with the weights and springs. Good luck cant wait to hear how she runs!

 

thanks dave...

i recently bought a set of WIX filters..so that should do it.

i'm planning to recurve it on my own...but not sure about the procedure. i know i should aim for all in around 3.000 RPM..but how much is "all in"? i heard something around 35° total..

need to drive her 150mls before i can deal with jets and AFR-gauge etc. ..do you guys think the stock jets are too lean for that? maybe i can take a closer look at the jets that are installed right now...i'll let you know

cant wait to hear her too...keep your fingers crossed!!

 

Yes you can make it to where all the advance is in by3000 and in my old stock distributors I had the total mechanical at 24 so you will add your initial and that gives you the total. I always had good luck between 34 and 36 depending on my compression and cam. I think you will only have to go up one set higher on your primary jets and change the metering rods to AX. But you will have to experiment with the jets and rods as no two engines are alike.

 

so here's what i could read from the rods and jets:

.070 primary jets

primary metering rods "520"

secondary hanger "E"

Secondary metering rods "AU"

 

wow...whats going on over there?

can't find a shop that has enough push rods in stock ?? placed my first order at summit but the expected arrival date of their backorder keeps moving on and on..so i canceled that

all the other shops will ship by the beginning of july...

these are the push rods i'm aiming for:

Comp Cams 7919 3/8 dia. 9.050 overall length

 

Thats wierd!! There usually is no waiting time for pushrods? On your carb you should try it like it is and then check your plugs to see how your running. I had 74s in the front of my Rochester and AX rods and it ran great, I had a .060 over 455 with Lunati 318 cam, HS rollers, Cloyes timing chain, and X,Z exhaust that were worked over and I ran 11.72 in the quarter. So the rochester handled the job just fine. I did buy the high performance kit for it with the viton pump and seals and the spring. It came with two sets of primary jets and 3 sets of metering rods. It was not cheap 130.00 but worth it.

 

Have you checked with some of the sellers on Ebay??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPETITION-...d487a8&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-CAMS-3-...ea5697&vxp=mtr

 

yeah i bought them from the seller in your second link but its still pending cause he didn't specified shipping rates for international shipping so i couldn't pay yet

 

more SNAFUS?...sure...here we go

oh..and the drill broke while trying to get the rest of that bolt out

...and the balancer is way too big for the toronado, because of the engine mount...damn it

 

Is it hitting the mount? Damn SNAFU's!! Well it is always that way but you just have to get those pesky bugs worked out and then she will be running great!!

 

Did you finally get the pushrods on the way??

 

Yeah...push rods should show up next week

 

how can i be sure, that i buy a balancer that fits? seems like the only specs they provide is outside diameter

this one is the balancer i have now

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-D-80022

also the rotating assembly of my engine got balanced...will the balance be off when i mount a different balancer?

maybe i just grind down the engine mount

 

Was your motor internally balanced or externally? It wont matter if its internally balanced but it will if external. I have had to alter some brackets and other things in the past and I would consider that option to reshape the mount. Or make a custom made mount using the original as a guide with the measurements you need for the balancer to fit.

 

yeah its balanced externally...i'm gonna reshape the mount next weekend..if all goes well i can put the engine back...finally....woohoo!!!

 

..last weekend