Ebrok heads and split cam duration and lift?
#1
Ebrok heads and split cam duration and lift?
Whith the ebrock heads does the 455 still like cams with split duration and lift? Are cams with larger exhaust duration and lift a thing of the past?
#3
I just had a custom cam ground for my 330 circle track build and we actually went with a shorter duration and lift on the exhaust to deal with exhaust reversion problems that come with using cast iron exhaust running laps at over 6500 rpm's...
Who knew?
Who knew?
#4
Fun street car that's only driven in the summer.Car will see the track form time to time. Car is a 86 G body cutlass with all the factory rare parts.Alum hood, bumper supports,rad support,drums.Radio delete/front plate delete/lightning rod shifters,H/O gauges. 8.5 diff,2004r from a ss. I would like to build a max value 455,best dollar value for money spent.mid 12's to low 11's.
Ebrock heads out of the box
egale rods
cn crank
studs with stock caps
light piston and pin
10 to 1 to 10.5 to 1 comp
pump gas 93 to 94
holly street dom intake I hope this intake fits under the factory alum hood.
headers
roller rockers
hyd flat tapet cam? duration? Lift? I was thinking about going with a Dave Smith cam grind
Block will be blue printed
800 cfm qjet
3:73 gears
Ebrock heads out of the box
egale rods
cn crank
studs with stock caps
light piston and pin
10 to 1 to 10.5 to 1 comp
pump gas 93 to 94
holly street dom intake I hope this intake fits under the factory alum hood.
headers
roller rockers
hyd flat tapet cam? duration? Lift? I was thinking about going with a Dave Smith cam grind
Block will be blue printed
800 cfm qjet
3:73 gears
Last edited by Bernhard; December 14th, 2012 at 10:32 PM.
#5
I'd do a split but I'd keep it to a minimum with your combo, depending on how high you'll be spinning it maybe a 236/240 on a 110, with .568 lift to use those heads. I offer that cam in the Erson line.
#6
The goal is to have a car that is quick but does not break parts.Street friendly.I want the car to work, there is know point to 500hp 600TQ engine if it breaks parts.I also have a limited budget.The diff is a 8.5 that will get axles,a pre load cover and ford ends.A built 2004r. with some billet hard parts.
I would like to match the engine to the diff and trans power level with a margin of safety.
I want to keep engine rpm down to 5200 to 5600 max rpm.
It would be great if the car could run a mid 11's in good air with a strip set up. I will give up et for a more street friendly car that does not break.
My goal is to have the car weigh 3000lb with out driver. No cutting up of the body and must look 100% stock except for the wheels and tires.
I was even thinking of painting the heads and intake gold.The goal is to have it look like GM built the car, its hard to hide the heads,intake and headers.I'm hoping to fab up a drop base factory air cleaner.
I would like to match the engine to the diff and trans power level with a margin of safety.
I want to keep engine rpm down to 5200 to 5600 max rpm.
It would be great if the car could run a mid 11's in good air with a strip set up. I will give up et for a more street friendly car that does not break.
My goal is to have the car weigh 3000lb with out driver. No cutting up of the body and must look 100% stock except for the wheels and tires.
I was even thinking of painting the heads and intake gold.The goal is to have it look like GM built the car, its hard to hide the heads,intake and headers.I'm hoping to fab up a drop base factory air cleaner.
Last edited by Bernhard; December 15th, 2012 at 03:06 PM.
#7
I like to use a fair amount of duration spilt , E-brocks ported or stock are weak in exhaust flow at least 6-8 deg of more split helps that. I also like 112 lsa , long rod and long stroke motors have lots of piston dwell , and dont need a ton of overlap.A 112 lsa will also help the motor hang on longer at max rpm , but will flatten the torque curve (lower peak torque) a bit. I would guess 230-34 intake and 238-42. Hey Mark , will you be re-dynoing soon?
#8
I was reading the ebrock head speck sheet and in stock form they looked to peak around .500 lift and did not flow that much more over .500. Is there still good gains to run a higher lift cam? How are the Erson cam profiles are they easy or hard on the valve train? Are they still made in the USA?
#9
You don't need excessive lift, but you will see more power with over .500" lift with the Edelbrocks.
I have a split duration cam, .557 / .574 lift, 244 / 253 duration @ .050" in my silver car and I love it. It is a street car, but it does idle really rough for a cruiser. It all depends on your goal, I want a streetable drag car whereas most guys want a dragable street car.
I have a split duration cam, .557 / .574 lift, 244 / 253 duration @ .050" in my silver car and I love it. It is a street car, but it does idle really rough for a cruiser. It all depends on your goal, I want a streetable drag car whereas most guys want a dragable street car.
#10
The goal is to have a car that is quick but does not break parts.Street friendly.I want the car to work, there is know point to 500hp 600TQ engine if it breaks parts.I also have a limited budget.The diff is a 8.5 that will get axles,a pre load cover and ford ends.A built 2004r. with some billet hard parts.
I would like to match the engine to the diff and trans power level with a margin of safety.
I want to keep engine rpm down to 5200 to 5600 max rpm.
It would be great if the car could run a mid 11's in good air with a strip set up. I will give up et for a more street friendly car that does not break.
My goal is to have the car weigh 3000lb with out driver. No cutting up of the body and must look 100% stock except for the wheels and tires.
I was even thinking of painting the heads and intake gold.The goal is to have it look like GM built the car, its hard to hide the heads,intake and headers.I'm hoping to fab up a drop base factory air cleaner.
I would like to match the engine to the diff and trans power level with a margin of safety.
I want to keep engine rpm down to 5200 to 5600 max rpm.
It would be great if the car could run a mid 11's in good air with a strip set up. I will give up et for a more street friendly car that does not break.
My goal is to have the car weigh 3000lb with out driver. No cutting up of the body and must look 100% stock except for the wheels and tires.
I was even thinking of painting the heads and intake gold.The goal is to have it look like GM built the car, its hard to hide the heads,intake and headers.I'm hoping to fab up a drop base factory air cleaner.
#11
Captjim is right on that one and if your going to keep the 455, why not use the edelbrock performer and you will have clearance under the hood. The cam AH64pilot has is almost the same that I have and it runs great! But a 350 olds built right will kick but with the nitrous!! and be completely streetable. Something to think about
#12
Thanks for all the replys. Lots of good info,I'm going to stick with the 455. I have a new holly street dom left over form the 80's as well as few ohter big block parts.If the street dom does not fit I will mill the carb base or go to the performer.
Thanks again
Bernhard
Thanks again
Bernhard
#13
I was reading the ebrock head speck sheet and in stock form they looked to peak around .500 lift and did not flow that much more over .500. Is there still good gains to run a higher lift cam? How are the Erson cam profiles are they easy or hard on the valve train? Are they still made in the USA?
Yes everything is still made in the USA, cam cores, lifters, timing sets etc.
#14
I prefer like pilot a all out street car that can be driven also. I believe in the term let it all hang out and then be buried with your baby also! I also believe in not harming anything a [powerful car is not a toy! do not go overboard with the gears unless you are using a overdrive. I use engle cams only.
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