Cooling issue

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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
COBRA2000's Avatar
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From: SAN ANTONIO TX
Cooling issue

My 1970 olds 442-30 W/AC Runs about 225 degrees at 75mph ...3300 RPM's.. If i drive 80mph or more, then it gets up there in the 230 range...If i drive 60mph, then it drops to about 205 degress...And this is with the AC on at all times....How ever, i was parked for about 15-mins at a restaurant waiting on a TO-GO order and the temp got about 238 degrees..Still with AC on..I then drove off driving around 50mph and temp came down to 190's in a matter of a few minutes...
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 01:10 PM
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I moved you post to its own thread. Is this a recent issue since getting your car back?
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 02:01 PM
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Similar to my car in 110º heat, with the AC on, at high way speed / 3400 RPM. If I slow down to 2800 RPM the temp drops to 190 and will stay there all day. There is just so much heat generation above 3000 RPM that the cooling system can't dissipate it all.
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 03:18 PM
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what's the the overall cooling system condition to your knowledge? Water pump, rad, rad cap, fan, fan clutch, hoses? What rad do you have?
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 70sgeek
what's the the overall cooling system condition to your knowledge? Water pump, rad, rad cap, fan, fan clutch, hoses? What rad do you have?
In addition to this, what is the ambient temperature when this happens? 100ºF+ is a lot different than 20ºF.
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 07:39 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 70sgeek
what's the the overall cooling system condition to your knowledge? Water pump, rad, rad cap, fan, fan clutch, hoses? What rad do you have?
Does the fan clutch even engage?
Old Jan 17, 2021 | 08:58 PM
  #7  
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Using an infrared thermometer confirm gauge accuracy and check the radiator for cool spots which would indicate blockage.
Old Jan 18, 2021 | 12:00 AM
  #8  
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Did it just start doing this? Has something been changed recently?
Old Jan 18, 2021 | 06:56 AM
  #9  
COBRA2000's Avatar
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
I moved you post to its own thread. Is this a recent issue since getting your car back?
Thank you!!
Old Jan 20, 2021 | 05:26 AM
  #10  
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Make sure the shroud is in good shape, all the rubber air direction flaps are in place. A new heavy duty fan clutch, though that is more of a sitting in traffic issue and a Robert Shaw high flow thermostat in160 or 180 are two cheap things to try. I assume the stock A/C overdriven pulleys are still in place? If all that checks out buy a large 2 core aluminum rad like the Cold Case rad. If it doesn't cool it, nothing will.
Old Jan 22, 2021 | 10:47 AM
  #11  
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I have the 2 row Cold-case rad in my '68 442. It was about the same price as getting my original Harrison re-cored. It will do nicely until that time. It's a factory a/c 4spd car with the std 3.23 gears. It never had a problem with overheating, the core was just rotten at the bottom. The aluminum 2 row is excellent, it doesn't even think of overheating even on 90+ degree days with the a/c on. I liked the fact that the tanks kind of look like factory stampings & with some gloss black rad. paint just on the tanks & a little at the edge of the core, just to where the fan shroud covers it looks quite good, plus you also have a/c so you won't see that bright silver rad core showing through the grilles since the condenser hides it. I don't know if I'd put one on an original W30 though?. Like others asked, is this a new issue after the accident?? Was everything put back correctly after that F350 plowed into you??
Old Jan 22, 2021 | 12:05 PM
  #12  
COBRA2000's Avatar
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Originally Posted by rob1960
I have the 2 row Cold-case rad in my '68 442. It was about the same price as getting my original Harrison re-cored. It will do nicely until that time. It's a factory a/c 4spd car with the std 3.23 gears. It never had a problem with overheating, the core was just rotten at the bottom. The aluminum 2 row is excellent, it doesn't even think of overheating even on 90+ degree days with the a/c on. I liked the fact that the tanks kind of look like factory stampings & with some gloss black rad. paint just on the tanks & a little at the edge of the core, just to where the fan shroud covers it looks quite good, plus you also have a/c so you won't see that bright silver rad core showing through the grilles since the condenser hides it. I don't know if I'd put one on an original W30 though?. Like others asked, is this a new issue after the accident?? Was everything put back correctly after that F350 plowed into you??
They did a great job..The same temps are the same before the wreck...
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