I have the factory stock setup on my ‘70 W-30. To remove the #4 and #6 sparks plugs do I also have to remove the entire OAI setup, the exhaust pipe from the manifold and the Exhaust Manifold Shroud ?

 

I don't think I do , been awhile I replaced any. I also have headers, not manifolds.

 

Is this a serious question, if it is then the answer is no. I just changed all plugs from the top except for #7. I change it from underneath because I'm missing my left trigger finger. Stock exhaust on our W-30.

 

Yes SY2455 it is a serious question. Maybe you can enlighten me and tell me how I can get a spark plug socket down into this area without bending the Exhaust Manifold Shroud ?

 

Can you get a spark plug socket on the spark plug ?

 

Cannot get the socket on it Ralph - the Exhaust Manifold Shroud is in the way. I guess I can loosen the shroud and see if that helps but I wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue. Maybe there is a trick to it but I’m not seeing it.

 

Do you have a Re-pro heat shield ? Try "adjusting" it for access. I don't recall ever having a problem. Spark plug socket, an extension and ratchet is all I ever used.

 

Is your socket real thick? Try finding a long socket, not a spark plug socket, it may be thinner.

 

^^^THIS. I suspect the problem is another aftermarket part that isn't exactly correct.

 

Yes it’s a reproduction part. A friend reached out and let me know that the dimensions between the original heat shield and some of the reproduction ones are different - that is why there is an issue with getting those 2 plugs out. The heat shield that I have blocks access equally. Loosen the nut and washer on the heat shield and you should be able to move it enough to gain access to those plugs.

 

Sorry just got back from a hospital. To change the plugs on that side I removed the heatriser tube going to the air cleaner. I use the regular sparkplug socket with a 6" swivel extension with a flex head rachet. If it will help, I can take a picture of the tools.

 

Internet search “13/16 pass through spark plug socket”

Short socket with large enough bore for plug to stick through. Typically turned with a 3/4” wrench on the external hex. Very common for 5/8” plugs on SBCs where it is not unusual for some middle plugs to be completely behind a header tube. Simply need the same thing in 13/16”. It’ll more than likely solve your problem and avoid having to remove the shroud for access.



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You're all kind of missing the point. The OP has a repro heat stove that is not formed correctly and overlaps the plug. Look at his photos. There isn't a straight shot to get any socket on the plug. Removing or reshaping that heat stove are the only options.

 

No you do not.

Then it isn't a factory stock setup...

 

The photos I’m viewing of the clearance and angles, combined with having run into similar on someone else’s car once before, clearly drive home the point (none missed) for a pass through socket IF OP doesn’t want to play tinker or remove the sheet metal when he wants to remove or install the crowded plugs(s). There is plenty of room to get a “pass through” socket and accompanying wrench on there, especially when the wrench only has to break it loose or snug it up for 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn.

I get the idea of making a “sustainable” mod by reforming the metal but OP appears to me as resistant to that.
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