Changing Camshaft
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Posts: 314
Changing Camshaft
-When you pull off the waterpump & front cover is it necessary to drop the oil pan?
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-When putting the distributer back on... how best to put it in a place where the car would start right away?
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-Whan adjusting Harland Sharp rockers 5001 on new dry lifters you adjust them until the pushrod feels some friction and then adjust them 1/2 turn tighter?
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- When putting Performer aluminum manifold to cast iron heads is it better use "turkey tray" gasket or just the short Edelbrock manifold/ head gasket?
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-Edelbrock Performer manifold needs some bolts over the water crossover what thread pattern are they?
thanks
joepenoso
-
-When putting the distributer back on... how best to put it in a place where the car would start right away?
-
-Whan adjusting Harland Sharp rockers 5001 on new dry lifters you adjust them until the pushrod feels some friction and then adjust them 1/2 turn tighter?
-
- When putting Performer aluminum manifold to cast iron heads is it better use "turkey tray" gasket or just the short Edelbrock manifold/ head gasket?
-
-Edelbrock Performer manifold needs some bolts over the water crossover what thread pattern are they?
thanks
joepenoso
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,095
From: central Indiana
Trim the tabs from the oil pan seal on the timing cover. It does help to loosen the oil pan bolts. Use a blob of RTV at the corner where the timing cover meets the oil pan.
Rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Position the crank so the timing mark reads 10*, drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire. Once the distributor is in, rotate the distributor body so the points just open (if your using ignition points) or the triangle shaped pointers on the pick-up coil are lined up (if using HEI ignition). If you do this correctly, when you start the engine and put a timing light on it it should read about 10*, you can set the timing with a timing light.
With the camshaft on the base circle, slowly tighten the polylocks to zero lash (you will feel a slight increase in resistance when turning the pushrod with your fingers) then turn the polylock 1/2 to 3/4 turn and lock it down.
I prefer the Mr. Gasket ultra seal intake gaskets over the "turkey tray" factory gasket. I have heard of people using both, the added sealing capabilities of the Mr gasket, and the turkey tray to keep hot oil off the bottom of the intake. Never tried it, the theory sounds good to me.
If your talking about the thermostat housing bolts they are 5/16x18 threads.
Rotate the engine so the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. Position the crank so the timing mark reads 10*, drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire. Once the distributor is in, rotate the distributor body so the points just open (if your using ignition points) or the triangle shaped pointers on the pick-up coil are lined up (if using HEI ignition). If you do this correctly, when you start the engine and put a timing light on it it should read about 10*, you can set the timing with a timing light.
With the camshaft on the base circle, slowly tighten the polylocks to zero lash (you will feel a slight increase in resistance when turning the pushrod with your fingers) then turn the polylock 1/2 to 3/4 turn and lock it down.
I prefer the Mr. Gasket ultra seal intake gaskets over the "turkey tray" factory gasket. I have heard of people using both, the added sealing capabilities of the Mr gasket, and the turkey tray to keep hot oil off the bottom of the intake. Never tried it, the theory sounds good to me.
If your talking about the thermostat housing bolts they are 5/16x18 threads.
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,130
From: Iowa
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