Zeppelin967

So I have a 3310-6 Holley on a Olds 455 with a Lunati VooDoo cam 10420704.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/284
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 233/241
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .522/.539
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2000-6000
Roller rockers, chromoly push rods, 3000 stall, a Speed Masters CNC version of the RPM Air-Gap which is 1" taller then Edelbrock, and sadly 3.08 gears in a heavily modified Toronado. I'm having a really hard time tuning the carb. My timing is a 12° with points eliminator kit and a stock distributor, fireball coil. My A/R screws aren't working nor my secondaries. I've got all new gaskets all the way around. The lightest spring and no check ball. I've gone around and sprayed everything I can with starter fluid and no idle fluxes so no vacuum leaks. I've got no power valve currently (I've used both a 6.5 and a 4.5 PV) and I've got 72H jets in. And a 25 plate in the rear. All channels are open and clean so the vacuum secondary should work. Floats are set correctly. I'm also in Denver, so let's begin ha! She idles OK & drives well, but I can't tell shes not at top performance. My A/F screws are in all the way for the best vacuum and I'm only pulling 9.5 in-Hg. I can tell she is still rich plugs are still a little black and the smell of gas is annoying at idle so much I my eyes water with the door open in the garage. I've put a bobby pin on the secondary linkage and drove it so I know the secondaries are not operating. And the diaphragm works as well. I know the secondaries work as well as I've tested it by making the secondaries temporally "mechanical" with no bog. My base idle screw is backed out two to three turns from what the base setting is supposed to be by setting the blades to make a square on the slots. And the secondaries are set that way as well. So I assume I need to drill holes in my throttle blades. So what size bit should I use first? I assume the secondaries do not operate due to lack of vacuum? So wouldn't getting the A/F screws working and a good idle vacuum like 12-14 in-Hg solve my secondary issue? And I do not know that vacuum pull to expect with my cam. And no I'm not burning oil so there isn't a vacuum leak on the inside of the intake. And thanks in advance for all the advice guys!!!

oldcutlass

What is your idle rpm? I'm thinking your out of the idle circuit as the a/f mixture screws are not working.

Zeppelin967

1000 rpm at idle in gear about 900. I agree that im out of the transition slot... ish i can still see the slot looking into the carb. She dosnt like a lower idle because in gear she has hesitation issues. My throttle blades do not have a hole in them currently and i believe that when i do put some in it would help a lot if not solve the issue.

oldcutlass

Try hooking your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Then adjust your idle down and see if it can get in the idle circuit.

Zeppelin967

Alright. Ill give that a shot.

Zeppelin967

So i tried hooking my vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and it actually pulled me to far advanced, i retarded the base timing and it caused me to run hot and had a bad bog down off throttle.... i opened my egr port in the back of the carb and left it open idled it down and she ran like a champ and 2x the previous power except my throttle plates are closed and i cant get her to idle less then 1400 rpm... i retarded the timing a bit and got her to 1100rpm but the timing is so far down it counter acted the improvement in power and made is slower off the line. So its obvious it needs more air... maybe not as much as a wide open egr port. But definitely more air.

oldcutlass

Don't worry about your timing when you move your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. Just make sure your timing is set to 12* with vacuum disconnected at around 600 RPM. When you connect the vacuum line your timing will advance and your idle rpm will go up. Turn your idle adjustment screw to get your desired RPM. At this point you should be in the idle circuit and the A/F mixture screws should work.

Zeppelin967

Me and my buddy pulled an all nighter last night working on the car. Put in carb studs, and looked at my timing curve. Apperently the top end of my timing curve was coming in eraticly and fluxuating..... and by changing the weights and bushings and springs with stock set up. Ran a million times better but i need a new distributor then she should run two million times better haha!

oldcutlass

Glad your moving forward.