Is this cam any good?http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=...61&lvl=2&prt=5

 

That depends on what you're putting it in.
What heads, compression ratio, and rear end gears do you plan on running?
It could be great, or it could suck, depending on your application.

 

AJCDFIN has posted 5 or 6 posts earlier a good article on cam selection .
mike

 

I plan on keeping it stock.Its a 1971 olds 455.

 

In my opinion, the heads in stock form don't flow well enough to justify that big of a cam and operate in that powerband. Especially, if your stock gears are 2.73 or 3.08. Your engine will mostly operate at low rpms with those rear gears.
You should be looking at something more like a Comp 268H or 262XE.
If you can't have high screaming RPMS because of head restriction, you might as well have some decent torque.

 

J is 100% correct having the right cam is important to make everything work togather. The comp-42-229-4 would be a good choice for a stock 455.

 

Does anybody need the cam.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Are you wanting to hear it but need something real streetable?

 

I want something streetable.I believe since these motors make lots on low end torque,i need something to take to the next level which I believe is mid range hp.Right now im just trying to learn as much I can because I dont have any experience with cars and engine rebuilding.So that means im satisfied as longest it can "keep up" with a "sreetable" motor.

 

Again do you need to hear it or that doesn't matter? Think about this for a minute first. What are trying to achieve? What is your end goal? Would you be disappointed if it was streetable but couldn't hear it, or if you could hear it but it didn't idle or drive reall well? Gas mileage a concern?

 

If you want to keep up with a stock mustang, or the new dodge challengers those run 14's. The 455 can match that with a small torque cam.
If you want to keep up with a cobra mustang or the new camaro, you need to work on the head's flow and your compression ratio before you pick a cam.

 

That cam is a bit bigger than the early W30 (virtually the same as W31) cam. The 308 deg (232 deg at .050" lift, .474" lift) was used in some Hurst Olds (1968, non AC). It is smaller than the big W30 cam (328 deg. rated; 244 deg at .050" lift; .475" lift).

 

Yes.

 

IMO then you should have something ground. Give me the application specifics and I can recommend a few combinations.

 

Its better if you just ask me what you like.I can look it up my mondello book.

 

wha?

 

What? When it comes to cams I don't like much of anything in that book.

 

Why do say that?Really?

 

I must have too much free time on my hands today. Commenting on engine build-ups is like hitting a hornets nest with a stick. You don't give much information on your car. Weight/gearing/converter/exhaust? I may have missed this information. All I saw was a "street" 1971 Olds 455 so I will comment on my street 1971 Olds 455. It is a Royale convertible and heavy at 4375 lbs. It is basically a stock 455 G-headed 8.5 C/R. Comp cam 268H with Crane-stock-style stamped rockers & bridges with 3/8's pushrods(stock is 5/16's), Preformer intake, Crane-ignition with rev-limiter set at 4800 rpm's, Sat-nite special torque/converter, Hooker headers with torque tube dual exhaust. My gears are 2:73, a little high but nice on the highway. I went for torque and this car has surprised a few so-called older muscle cars. IMO for a "street 455" you don't need a 6000 RPM cam that is "border-line" needing roller-rocker valve-train. Some people will disagree with me but for the street I feel one wants to be under cammed & carbed rather than over. Plus with 455's higher rpm's opens the lid to another can of worms, aka oiling/bearing speed problems. Good Luck

 

I agree with the last post as well. If you read the publication that was put on this site you'll see why. Too many guys get hung up on the specs and not the practicality of the choice.

You drive your car mostly between 1500-4000 rpm. Get a cam that works best in that range, If you're going to race it that's different, if an occasional trip to the track is in the works then that can be considered as well.

Most guys want to hear it and that's fine. Very few of the ones in most catalogs will satisfy these needs while retaining the best driveability, i.e. typical Edelbrock cam, 204/214 @ .050 on a 112. If you put this in as is you'd barely hear it if at all. Grind that same cam on a 108 and it'll be more satisfying, I guarantee it.

Rule of Thumb - go with a smaller duration cam on a tighter lobe seperation as described. That along with ample lift in most cases will give most what they're looking for, i.e. tone, performance over stock, and driveability.

I like some Comp stuff but their latest Thumpr series is a great example. Other cam grinders have been doing the same thing for years, just they weren't as good at marketing as Comp is. Those profiles can be achieved fairly easily and without going to the extreme typical of Comp.