Hey Guys,

Come winter Im pulling my 455 out and giving it a good going over. Its currently not running great and I have to pull it out to reseal the whole thing anyway. So, I have a Q jet on it currently (17057204) off a 77 vette 350. First off, would this carb be worth rebuilding and rejetting or should I find a period correct one to rebuild? I ask because the 17057204 is a smog carb, correct? Second, I want to put a good street cam in it. I have read alot of people talking about the Mondello jm 20-22, however, I have to assume that there are better grinds out there now. Im not sure what compression engine I have (anyway of telling that when I have it apart?) but I figure its most likely a 8.5:1. It has G heads and will have headers once completed. While I have it apart, any suggestions? Im not keen on doing a job twice so I want to fix all problems and possible future problems while its out. Let me know what you guys think. Also, what combinations have worked for you guys? thanks For reading

 

First, the vin# will determine the year and HP of the motor you have.
That'll help us make suggestions to achive a more fun ride.
Second, don't buy anything from Mondello, as it's not the same - different owners with different morals.
Third, what do you want of the car? Fast street drive? Faster occasional strip?
Rear gears depend on usage too. Mainly street? Xway? What trans?

 

You can order that cam direct from Engle as they are not affiliated with Mondello any longer. In any case, Rick is right that it helps to really define your goal for the car. When you say a good street cam that means so many different things to each one of us. The best way for us to help you is to tell us...what do you want the car to do for you?

For me, I want a drag strip car that I can drive on the street. I'm willing to give up power brakes and idle quality. I also want it to be loud and raunchy sounding. How about for you?

 

Sorry guys, its going to be mainly a street car with an occasional trip to the strip. The PO put a crate short block motor in the car so dont think the vin can help there. I believe it was origionally a 350 car. He claims the new short block is .040 over. I will verify that when I have it apart. I want to keep my power brakes and a nice lumpy idle wouldnt be bad. Im looking for a cam that would produce 360-375hp and 400-450tq. I dont think that is an unreasonable goal with this engine. The current rear gears are 3.42 and I will probable keep them for a while. Its backed with a turbo 350, however, im looking to pick up a turbo 400 if I can find one for the right price. Hope this helps. What do you think about the Carb?

 

Steve, you could always buy cams straight from engle, I bought mine from them 6-8 years ago.

If you want lope, still retain good manners and make the best use of stock style heads then I'd recommend an Erson tq40. That along with an 800ish carb, performer intake and 9.5:1 or so compression will get you to your goals.

 

There are some specialty carb rebuilders that'll rebuild or supply a carb to your application, that'd be well worth it.
I'm particular to Quadrajets, but that's just me.
3:42's are good - had 'em on my '69 442!
A OD trans would make hwgy travel more economicle.

 

Some of the smog carbs are great. I like the ones with the roughly 1/2" aluminum plug partly under the air cleaner gasket on the air horn. You can replace that plug with a 1/8" NPT plug and make a tool by flattening the cut off end of a pushrod to adjust primary metering rod height externally, without taking off the air horn. Then go to J primary rods with the smooth taper instead of the step of K rods, proper jets, and proper secoondary rods.

 

Yeah I know...but I always bought from Mondello because they were the same price and that way everyone made a little money. I'm all about helping out small shops...as long as they are reputable and trustworthy. We see how that one turned out.

 

So any suggestions on cam grinds? I may pull the engine out earlier than expected so Im gonna try to get all the parts ready for a fast turnaround. I just want to do a simple reseal, cam and check over so I hope to have the engine back in the car asap. But we all know how that goes. Let me know

 

I like the Engle 20-22....496 / .512 lift 226 / 230 duration at .050" tappet lift on a 110 LSA

It has always been my go to for a street car that needs to have moderate manners but perform as well. I just put one in the 455 I built for my convertible. You'll like it. It has a mildly rough idle and makes good power with a stock set of heads. You can order it direct from Engle at 562-232-7079

 

Will the Engle 20-22 camshaft work well with 8.5:1 CR? Im pretty sure my 455 has the deep dished pistons. Sounds like that cam is pretty much liked by most for the 455. And what kind of numbers can I expect to produce with that cam?

 

Are you going to have the heads worked on at all while they're off? You could always have them surfaced, which is a good idea anyway for 40 year old heads. When they do, you can use the opportunity to lower the CC's and bring your compression up a bit. Also, go back together with a Fel-Pro 1155 head gasket that is .039" thick. If you could find them, a stock GM steel head gasket will help to bring compression up even more as they are around .017" thick.

 

If you will be leaving the compression alone, then, you may want to try the Engle 18-20 cam.

 

This may work better for your combination, but my dad's Vista Cruiser 455 has this cam and it's a bit of a slug. Then again, that car is much heavier.

 

I know I should have the heads gone over while they are off, Im gonna have to take a good look when I get it apart to see if I will. The PO had them machined when he put the engine together so we will see. Most of the good machine shops around me all closed there doors.

 

Well there's a good chance they have smaller chambers if they were worked on previously. If that's the case, have them CC'd so you can actually calculate your compression ratio and pick your cam accordingly.

Also, when you get it apart check the deck height (height of the engine block over the piston at it's highest point) Deck height, piston dish size, combustion chamber CC, and gasket thickness will determine what your compression is going to be. Once you have all that, we can calculate your compression ratio and give you a better cam recommendation.

 

Hey Guys I started a new thread for my engine teardown. Be sure to check it out and leave your input. I felt the teardown didnt belong on this thread.
Link

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post437934