Have a 455 with 100,000 miles (I believe), and have been dealing with some excessive oil burning. It seems to be worse at higher speeds. Had the valve seals replaced and still burning about 1 quart every 300 miles or so. I have approx. 1000 miles on since the valve seals were done. There are no apparent oil leaks just a little drip here and there but there was some residue on the bumper especially after higher speeds eg. 70 mph. I am using 10 w 30 oil.

Would I notice instant improvement after valve seals?
Am I headed for a rebuild?
Any other suggestions?

Thanks for your input.

 

A compression test will tell you if rings are worn. Teat first then squirt some oil in the cylinders and test again. Are any spark plugs oil fouled?

 

Had a compression test before valve seals and lowest was 108 the rest were 115 to 132. Did not put oil in and retest. Have not pulled any spark plugs yet. Do I need to pull them all?

 

when you did the seals, were any of them broken/ missing?
I have seen these block the oil return on the heads,then the only place for the oil to go
is to flood the guides. Or the returns could just be plugged with gunk.


later....

 

yeah apparently they were really cracked up.
Whats involved to check this?
Would this make sense then that the faster I go the more oil I burn??

 

yes, because the more RPM, the more oil pressure,the more in the valve covers.
I would bet a six pack that is what problem is.

take the valve covers off, . Look for the the top row of head bolts, the bolts that are
at the outer edge/ the ends of the heads. there are small little holes that oil is suppose to
drain down to the block. you should be able to stick your small finger in there part way.
you may need a light to see in there. Each head has two holes ,one on each end.
Maybe someone can post a picture of what to look for. I am sure I don't have
any pics.

 

I found a pic..see the pocket infront of the valve spring? make sure it is clear.

 

The 108 may be part of your problem. Plus putting on new seals can sometimes be a band-aid if you have bad guides/worn valves, not to mention worn rings.

The rings of yesteryear don't last like todays stuff.

 

Thanks boys I will start with a couple of plugs first.

 

Just had the same problem w/ a '65 400 - Left rear cogged w/ vave seal material!
A real PIA w/ master + booster in the way!
Used a coat hangar, penetrating oil, and air pressure - took about an hour!!

 

Here are a couple of plugs how do these look?

 

the darker colored one looks to be a possible
problem cylinder.Is that the cyl. that is 108 ?
did you take a valve cover off?

 

Darker colored is the first cylinder which was 132
The 108 is the lighter one.
I did not take the valve cover off not sure I am that mechanically inclined LOL

 

I think that plug looks fine. You need to find someone to help you
take the cover off. (IMO) If your car has a/c, start with the passenger side.

 

Thanks RED I will get someone to help me and no AC.
Sorry whats IMO?

 

The 400 I worked on smoked BAD at ide, and again during acceleration @ 98k. miles.
Uncogging the drain hole and new valve seals eliminated 99% of the smoke!
Don't forget - plastic back then, is nothing like it is now!!
Of the 4 or 5 seals I pulled off intact, I could shatter them by squeezing them with my fingers - hot and cold cycles make that old stuff real brittle!
I'm not sure if the new seals are any better - but they work for now!
You might be charged around $200 to do the job, but look for someone that's done it before - no novices!!


IMO=in my opinion!!

 

Thanks Rickman.
I do not have any smoking that I am aware of just disappearing oil? At higher speeds I can use a quart in 100 miles or less??
I believe it has got better since the valve seals. When I was on my way to the nationals and doing 75 on I95 that's when the oil just started to go.
I hear you on the plastic thing they said mine were very brittle.

 

IMO = in my opinion.

Rickman, I got a 425 free once because of that. they thought it was junk.

you can start on either side, I just thought it may be easier with less stuff in the way.

I some times forget what some of you guys have to work around on these cars.
Mine is set up for racing, It is very easy on my car to work on. No heater,no a/c
no inner fenders.

 

Thanks Red.
God I'm dumb or is that GID

 

The oil returns were clear so I am in the process at costing out a rebuild.
Thanks for all your input. I will start a new thread once I get the costs and particulars of the rebuilds for your comments.